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Juan's M998 HMMWV

juanprado

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Whoops, I haven't actually looked at an RF-382 in a while. Power & control is all on the one multi-pin cable, so we should be able to just hook up and test it. I don't have an amplifier, but I can disable my radio's internal coupler and utilize exclusively the RF-382 to see if it at least does something.

The large white cone is an insulator for a different style of antenna connection (wire antennas and the like). Most stuff on-vehicle will use the coax connector nearby that is built for 50 Ohm antennas, which is every vehicle-mounted antenna that I'm aware of. If you don't already have it, you should get that protective cover that 86humv has shown in the pictures below. It really will save that ceramic piece from a lot of potential damage. There's one for about $25 on eBay right now...or perhaps 86humv has an extra one.

Ah, That makes sense on the ceramic connector. I had sorta thought that because the At1011 set up I have on the Harris base with the tilt adapter just has a screw on the bottom and had a broken off ring terminal. No coaxial or bnc or tnc connections. I tried to hunt down a Harris Rf-382 tm or manual but best I could find is a $35 cd scan of one from Israel which I passed on...

I do have a cover fortunately that came with the set up.

I do see 2 antenna tnc? connectors, one by the ceramic cone and one on the opposite side by the control cable plug. Can this thing have 3 antenna's connected to it at one time?
 

juanprado

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Juan have you had any problems out of your main light switch. I am about to change mine out and was going to follow your lead
No, I have a used one from the first design with my M923 with no issues for many years. This truck got a brand new one but it is a different design made by Narton not advanced and I believe made for the hmmwv's. It has a much deeper face and fit the tabs on the dash perfectly with no modification for the screws. I have read that with the original shorter design the tabs need to be modified for it to fit and hold it.

Both have the extra external ground installed.
 

juanprado

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Underbody Protection Partial Kit

Been super busy with a house repair/remodel project so not much time to work on the hmmwv....

I already have the front cage for the differential to the winch mount that I had previously posted.

I picked up used very reasonable a transfer case skid plate. It is part of the underbody kit. Two 3/8 holes in transmission cross member and easy bolt up.

Trolling on epay, I found a new main center cage and the 2 mounting brackets for the underbody kit. Very reasonable and shipping was a whole lot less than what I would have expected. It was on epay and they had sent me a coupon which saved me $50 so I jumped on it.

Easy to install. Two 7/16 bolt holes through bottom of transmission cross member and Two more on the rear panel of the "C" cross member. The right bracket straddles the inside of the right frame through existing bolt. The left straddles the frame from the outside also through an existing bolt. I laid the heavy cage rear on top of the transmission cross member and used my knees to push up while I started a few of the eight 5/16 bolts on the bracket. With a few started, It holds it up in place.

It would be easy to drop to do any maintenance underneath.

Now just need to find the fuel tank shield. Not sure If I want to do the rear differential cage as I do not want to block the rear pioneer tools. Does anyone know if you can have the tool rack with a rear differential cage?
 

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Juan, I have a request for myself and perhaps the others on this forum.

The next time your vehicle rear wheels are up, please place the HMMWV in neutral and the transfer case into neutral and spin both rear tires forward. Please count the number of revolutions at the rear wheels to create one full revolution at the drive shaft. Also count the number of revolutions at the drive shaft to complete one revolution at the tires.

I am curious as to your crown gear ratio. I am trying to figure out how your HMMWV does 70 MPH.

Thanks,

T
 

juanprado

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Installed the newer style slightly larger/thicker black steering wheel. Got a great deal from Andyrv6av8v on his take out with the cancelling ring already attached. Also thanks to TimnTrucks for bringing it back for me from the last Ga Rally. SS freight is awesome :)

It went super easy. I had lubed the threads with PB plaster a few days before pulling. My son is a manager at O'reilly's so I used his loaner tool stg whl puller 67011

Use the 1/4 fine thread bolts. Came right off. It has an alignment notch so no guess work on the splines to reinstall.

Works like it should and I already had the upgraded turn signal switch so the cancelling ring is a cool update and no more forgotten turn signal....
 

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juanprado

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I found a used set of the unobtainum mud flap close out panels. They keep mud and debris plus water from spraying out. Many new NOS mudflap kits that were surplussed had these panels broken from poor packaging plus take offs like my mud flaps from Southern Metal did not come with them when they were pulled off the bumpers as the panels are on the bottom edge of the tub. Most of the kits on epay do not have them.
They are stupid expensive new from the dealers. It would seem a great opportunity for those with the 3rd printers to crank out some and make a few $.
 

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TOBASH

Father, Surgeon, Cantankerous Grouch
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Hey, I could use the English/Arabic sticker that says stay back 100 meters or you will be shot!
 

juanprado

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Installed the dual oil filter kit AMG 57k4411 that I had for a few years now.......that I got from Amtak $40 on ebay who is also a member. These were installed for the sandbox and Saudi trucks from what I read. There is also another kit for the sandbox with a 2nd fuel filter housing with a finer micron but I have not invested in it. Suprman sells it.

Cheap oil at costco chevron delo 400 fleet 15w40 gallon 3 pack for $15. I have not seen $5 name brand gallon oil without rebate in quite a while. Actually cheaper than their brand fleet oil.

Instructions call for unbolting the hanger bearing on the driveshaft and it is necessary to get access to the 35mm (1-3/8 socket 3/4 drive should also work but I had a 1/2 drive 35mm ) oil adapter bolt. Stubby wrenches 5/8 & 11/16 along with deep 3/8 drive sockets did the trick. The upper bolt is more of a challenge but do able. Note I did all this with the undercarriage protection cage with no issue. I also went ahead and greased the slip joint while I had it moved to the side.

Oil pan bolt was magnetic and the nylon gasket had a better day so I replaced the 1/2 gasket.

Kit comes with all the parts. You need to reuse the 35mm bolt and the connector that the the original oil filter spins on. 5/8 takes it off. Kit comes with the 2nd connector and new gasket & o rings for the bolt and the main o ring. Mine had 2 purolator name brand oil filters. Some kits just have a plain white filter included.

Instructions call for an extra qt of oil for the new filter so total 9 qts of oil.
 

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juanprado

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Luckily Marco left us alone so I took advantage of the beautiful day to install the fuel tank shield of the undercarriage protection system.

Pretty straight forward, loosen 2 screws with a deep 9/16 , straps hang down, insert plate and re-bolt. I was by my self and had trouble holding the tank and starting the nut so I used a block 6x6 with a bottle jack on top to help me push it up and steady it.
 

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juanprado

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Southern Metals was a literal treasure trove in Wilmington, NC. They no longer have the military scrapping contract for hmmwv's for a few years now so I doubt they have anything left at this point. If you are in the area, they do have a nice warehouse/retail store with lots of metal products along with some tools, surplus, and parts off other military stuff. Worthwhile to just check them out if in the area.

You could call them but I think everything hmmwv is history. They had an account here but not sure if still active,
 

kzeyus

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Seems like these could be bent out of sheet metal if had one as a pattern.

I found a used set of the unobtainum mud flap close out panels. They keep mud and debris plus water from spraying out. Many new NOS mudflap kits that were surplussed had these panels broken from poor packaging plus take offs like my mud flaps from Southern Metal did not come with them when they were pulled off the bumpers as the panels are on the bottom edge of the tub. Most of the kits on epay do not have them.
They are stupid expensive new from the dealers. It would seem a great opportunity for those with the 3rd printers to crank out some and make a few $.
 
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