Just Bought an M35A2

[ShakeNBake]

I've been looking for a long time to buy a Deuce, and one showed up just 10mi away from my house in Oregon, in my price range and not neutered or bubba'd up. I pulled the trigger on the deal and it's now at the family farm. I have been reading on SS all about it for the last month, every chance i get. Trying to understand the TM's and follow along with all the mods and trick you guys have already figured out, It's quite impressive and very overwhelming.

Its a 1970 Kaiser Jeep M35A2 with a Hercules -1D Multifuel engine with the FDC bypassed but intact. The previous owner (a friend that I trust) said it had possibly been to Vietnam, then used in Korea then Kuwait, it had a new motor and transmission installed in 90' by Uncle Sam just before being sold at auction.

Here is my short list on what I want / need to do:

Just to get it on the road:
-Wheels and Tires, going the super single route because I'm scared to work around split rims and tires seem to be impossible to find that were manufactured in the last 25 years (Just bought MRAP non-ctis aluminum wheels, adapters and bead-lock inserts, Tires are next)
-Brakes (full service while I have the wheels off, bleed everything down, replace anything that looks questionable)
-Paint Job, I'm not sure if I'm going the whole 9 and sandblasting everything or just a pressure wash and scuff before painting (I've got 3gal of CARC 383 Green Poly moisture cure)
-LED lighting (just bought some LED headlights, probably going to hold out for a good deal on some military LED brake and turn lights)
-Title (I'm in Oregon and I'm hoping to get it on a specialty collector plate, but I must wait until wheels, tires, brakes until I can drive it down to the DMV)
-Better windshield wipers
In the future:
-Fabricate a removable camper that will be installed 50% of the time
-MRAP jump seats in the front like Peashooter used
-Power steering (although extremely fun, driving this thing is like arm wrestling Andre the giant)
-2 rifle rack
-Locking doors
-Keyed ignition or secret kill switch
-12v system that will run electronics in the cab (GPS, CB, Intercom)
-24v winch (18k warn MRAP take-off)
-Trailer to use when camping
Concerns:
-Rust (nothing major except for the battery tray, the master cylinder and a little bit under the driver door on the body)
-Brakes (just about everyone on here has something bad to say about the stock system.)
-I'd really like to find out more about my deuce, where it was used and by what units?

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

I'd suggest, even if you thoroughly check out the brakes, and nothing is leaking, and everything is working perfectly, still replace every brake hose with brand new ones, even if the ones on it look new, and even if you have to get them made by a local shop (I got new ones made, and they were about the same price as NOS ones that had been sitting on a shelf for 30 years).

 

[fasttruck]

Previous users can sometimes be gleaned by carefully removing the layers of paint on the front bumper and rear bumperettes to see if any stenciled lettering remains. I believe that DOD does not retain records of units assigned especially after the vehicle is sold. Get the applicable TM's and lubrication orders for model in question. These are listed on an data plate on the dashboard. A M35 has 4 grease fittings on the handbrake alone There are something like 32 grease points on a truck without a winch. And don't forget the oil can points. The MWO tag is likely for seatbelts if the vehicle has them. Someplace on this earth there is an index of what the MWO numbers mean. Grease, oil, and air are cheap, parts and tires cost money. Be guided accordingly.

 

[fasttruck]

Also,. as the truck has a hard cab and a heater, it was probably issued in an area of cold winter weather. These accessories were not usually found on trucks deployed in Vietnam or sunny southwest Asia.

 

[Menaces Nemesis]

Previous users can sometimes be gleaned by carefully removing the layers of paint on the front bumper and rear bumperettes to see if any stenciled lettering remains. I believe that DOD does not retain records of units assigned especially after the vehicle is sold. Get the applicable TM's and lubrication orders for model in question. These are listed on an data plate on the dashboard. A M35 has 4 grease fittings on the handbrake alone There are something like 32 grease points on a truck without a winch. And don't forget the oil can points. The MWO tag is likely for seatbelts if the vehicle has them. Someplace on this earth there is an index of what the MWO numbers mean. Grease, oil, and air are cheap, parts and tires cost money. Be guided accordingly.

Mine has no winch... it's bobbed... and has 45 zerks.

 

[cattlerepairman]

Congrats on your truck! You seem to have done your home work!

Just a note on the sand blasting: The CARC paint that was used to paint the truck is toxic and cancerogenic. Airway protection is a must when blasting and grinding this stuff.

A note on the brakes: You will have the brake drums and wheel bearings off. Especially in the front, additional checks are a good idea. How do the axle boots look? NOW is the time to just continue, take the front axle shafts out and do proper new inner seals and knuckle boots (my plug is for the oversized ones from rockwelloffroad because I found them such a joy to install). You would HATE it if you did brakes and bearings and then had a leaking front axle inner seal in a month... (I feel bad but I am plugging the "sock seals" from rockwelloffroad because they seal much better with driveshaft movement than the original ones. No commission. Not affiliated. I swear. I just like putting superior product in, because it is the same amount of work as the crappy New Star stuff).

Also check king pin bushings (again..my plug is for rockwelloffroad because you can get the bushing already pressed into the plate, with proper spacer...simple switch out) because you will have to do the camber mod on the front springs and any wobbly king pins will be amplified by the big super singles.

Also check pitman arm - it is adjustable, should there be end play.

Brakes...as said above, be anal about them. Rusty master cylinder....get a new one and DO THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR MOD. Put it in the cab or on the fire wall, so you can easily see the brake fluid level. Easy and checp insurance.

 

[rustystud]

Congrats on your truck! You seem to have done your home work!

Just a note on the sand blasting: The CARC paint that was used to paint the truck is toxic and cancerogenic. Airway protection is a must when blasting and grinding this stuff.

A note on the brakes: You will have the brake drums and wheel bearings off. Especially in the front, additional checks are a good idea. How do the axle boots look? NOW is the time to just continue, take the front axle shafts out and do proper new inner seals and knuckle boots (my plug is for the oversized ones from rockwelloffroad because I found them such a joy to install). You would HATE it if you did brakes and bearings and then had a leaking front axle inner seal in a month... (I feel bad but I am plugging the "sock seals" from rockwelloffroad because they seal much better with driveshaft movement than the original ones. No commission. Not affiliated. I swear. I just like putting superior product in, because it is the same amount of work as the crappy New Star stuff).

Also check king pin bushings (again..my plug is for rockwelloffroad because you can get the bushing already pressed into the plate, with proper spacer...simple switch out) because you will have to do the camber mod on the front springs and any wobbly king pins will be amplified by the big super singles.

Also check pitman arm - it is adjustable, should there be end play.

Brakes...as said above, be anal about them. Rusty master cylinder....get a new one and DO THE BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR MOD. Put it in the cab or on the fire wall, so you can easily see the brake fluid level. Easy and checp insurance.

I also agree with using "Rockwell-Offroad" parts. I've found them to be of the highest quality.

 

[ShakeNBake]

The MWO tag is likely for seatbelts if the vehicle has them. Someplace on this earth there is an index of what the MWO numbers mean.

This makes sense, I looked up the MWO tag and it is for the seat belts. I wonder if there is any way to look up the Serial / VIN # to see where / how it was used? I did some research on the contract # and found out it matches the title as a 70 kaiser jeep. I think I have a pretty good understanding of where / what the truck did after auction, but I would think there would be some kind of asset info. I will try carefully taking the front bumper down layer by layer to see if I can get any numbers. It was painted from the factory in low gloss green, then an oddball paint scheme that does not match the TM, then firetruck red, then tan. I have been fighting to get down to the low gloss green with my pressure washer but its quite the battle. The previous owner said that it was used in Kuwait as some kind of fire truck / fire tender but there are not any holes in the bed. It was definitely painted fire truck red (not the same red as the primer on the cab) with a yellow/black bumper at one point.

As for Brakes:
I think I will get new brake lines, a new master cylinder, do the reservoir mod, inspect the rest of the system, and replace anything that looks rough or worn

As for axles:
I will just replace the front boots while i have it apart, and inspect the bearings. There is a small leak showing on the front right tire (brake fluid or axle lube) so that will be addressed when I get it apart

 

[cattlerepairman]

It is a fine line between "repair/replace other stuff while you have it apart" and getting completely carried away into a major rebuild! Always good to have a plan and watch yourself! I should know...

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

Welcome aboard Find a bunk, stow your gear, and prepare to get underway

Congrats on your "new to you" Deuce!

Be careful though. They're kinda like Lays Potato Chips.... Bet you can (have) just one!

 

[77 AMG]

Hello and welcome to the party, Pal! I am going through about the same mess that you are gearing up for. I have gotten ALOT of good advice, tips and offers of help here, in the month or two that I have been signed up. It's pretty crazy how much work is involved in getting a "Duece" back on it's feet!

 

[SCM35A2]

Congrats on the find & welcome to the club!

 

[ShakeNBake]

Previous users can sometimes be gleaned by carefully removing the layers of paint on the front bumper and rear bumperettes to see if any stenciled lettering remains. I believe that DOD does not retain records of units assigned especially after the vehicle is sold.

I worked down through the layers and took photos at each layer. When sanding some of the visible letters were removed but new letters or edges appeared. I marked the images attached with all the letters, numbers and edges that I could get. Can someone fill in the blanks?

 

[USAFSS-ColdWarrior]

I worked down through the layers and took photos at each layer. When sanding some of the visible letters were removed but new letters or edges appeared. I marked the images attached with all the letters, numbers and edges that I could get. Can someone fill in the blanks?


View attachment 742167

No help from me on deciphering your bumper numbers BUT.... You may find that BRAKE FLUID and GENTLE RUBBING is a more delicate way to perform "archeological digging" through layers of paint.

 

[ShakeNBake]

No help from me on deciphering your bumper numbers BUT.... You may find that BRAKE FLUID and GENTLE RUBBING is a more delicate way to perform "archeological digging" through layers of paint.

That's a good idea! Pressure washing seemed like a better way than sanding. I will try the brake fluid route next and see if anything else gets revealed.

 

[ShakeNBake]

NOW is the time to just continue, take the front axle shafts out and do proper new inner seals and knuckle boots (my plug is for the oversized ones from rockwelloffroad because I found them such a joy to install). You would HATE it if you did brakes and bearings and then had a leaking front axle inner seal in a month... (I feel bad but I am plugging the "sock seals" from rockwelloffroad because they seal much better with driveshaft movement than the original ones.

I'm sold on using those guys, but I'm not sure what kit to get, One of the top link and 2 of the bottom?

https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/BOOT-AND-SEAL-KITS?product_id=64

https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-BEARINGS?product_id=116

 

[cattlerepairman]

THIS seal https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=106
replaces
THIS seal: https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=62 which comes as part of the axle seal kit for the front.

Your extra money buys an improved seal (sock seal) already installed in a retainer. Makes for quick and simple install. Side-by side, it is quite clear why one of these seals will, in time, leak again and the other will not.

Not affiliated with the business. I just like stuff that works as advertised. If it means I do not have to touch this sh*t again in my lifetime, I'm good with that!

 

[russojap]

I'm a little confused (not hard for me), does the $199.99 set have the improved sock seals?

https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/BOOT-AND-SEAL-KITS?product_id=64

 

[cattlerepairman]

You'd need to call them/e-mail them but I'd say the kit contains the standard axle tube seals.

 

[ShakeNBake]

While prepping my truck for paint, I noticed a large white star on the roof of the cab, not the top of the hood (where I usually see them). I've never seen one with a star on the roof, does anyone know anything about this?