• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Just got an R2 crash truck

vegard

New member
23
0
1
Location
bethesda MD
like the title says... I want to check in with you guys. I have been reading up on the M37's both on this forum and all over the internet.

This 1957 truck was originally airforce and red, but was since in the employ of the Birmingham police department in Alabama. Its final service was as a bomb disposal truck.

I have attached one picture that gives you an idea of what the truck looks like. Basically, the body is really solid, and the engine runs (kind of). I will attach some more photos when I take them tomorrow.

I had the truck started a couple days ago, and drove it around the neighborhood. The wiring is so frayed and generally fragile, I want to replace the essential wires before I drive it again. I have a couple of questions about the wiring, and I though I would share my plans for the truck.

Basically I want to just drive the thing for a while, then , a couple years down the road, put a diesel in it, probably a cummins.
The problems that I want to address are as follows:
1. rewire the essential wires to get the engine running and starting reliably.
2. do something about the exhaust- cracked manifold and pipes
3. rewire all lighting and replace any necessary lights. Also adding turn signals, and possibly some clearance lights for safety.

this is a long post, but I wanted to introduce the truck.
Here's the questions I have right now:
1. Is it dangerous (for the engine) to run with a (badly) cracked exhaust manifold? and any leads on cheap or used manifolds? can I weld it back up?
2. Where is the coil on the truck? I only see the 6 high tension leads going to the spark plugs?
3. there is oil in the air cleaner around the intake tube, what is going on here?

Basically, I think I will start with the battery cables and the ignition wires and hopefully the truck will start easier (it could barely crank even with good batteries in it)

I am very excited about this project and look forward to your responces. I could fill a book with questions and ideas right now, but Ill give em to you guys a few at a time...

Thanks

- Vegard
 

Attachments

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
The manifolds rarely make it long after welding. Make sure the guy doing it "knows" cast iron. Pre heat and long slow cool down. The "coil" should be inside the dizzy housing to keep it water proof. I say should as that is how the dizzy is in the 725 I have. More better info from others to follow!
 

M-37Bruce

Active member
705
59
28
Location
Midlothian, VA
Fire Away

I've seen this R-2, maybe on Ebay?
Looks solid, Manifolds are around, I wouldn't bother tiring to weld it unless they were very good at it & they were scarce. Vintage Wiring of Maine, Cable Garbee has an entire page dedicated to the R-2, look 4 his handle/posts, he has lots of info. I'm just guessing, the cabin/interior is empty?
Good Luck,
 

dpsmith

Member
121
0
16
Location
Birmingham/Alabama
I retired from the B.P.D. , that truck saw alot of service with us during the late 60's and 70's. We used it for a number of missions. It was taken out of service when more modern APC's and equipment came on board. Glad to see it being restored. If you see some old film footage of the civil rights march's in Birmingham you will see this truck in the background.
 

papabear

GA Mafia Imperial 1SG
13,520
2,469
113
Location
Columbus, Georgia
vegard gimp is correct about the coil...it's inside the distributor.

Don't bother welding the manifold...waste of time and prolly won't hold long anyway.

DON'T TRUST any crumbling wiring!!!! We were all sitting in the hooch one Saturday evening after playing with my M37 having a cold one. Suddenly we hear a ZZZZTTTT noise and see smoke coming from under the dash!!...Yanked off the batt cables and found some bare wires touching under the dash..
You can get an entire harness for around 1K I think and even get it with turn signals.

Oh...and don't worry about the slow cranking with good batteries. We have 3 of them in our group and they all turn over slower than most vehicles but start very quickly if tuned right.

GOOD LUCK and WELCOME SIR!!

Oh...and that R2 Crash Truck is a good score BTW:-D
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,498
6,631
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
There is a back issue of Military Vehicles magazine that had info on these, the R-2 was on the cover.
 

odjeeper

Member
106
0
16
Location
Northern, MI
Congratulations on acquiring a very rare vehicle in apparently very nice condition. The coil is indeed in the distributor housing, they were set up this way as part of the waterproofing of the electrical system as Gimpyrobb said. Also, oil in the air cleaner is a good thing in this case, these trucks, like all of the M-37 family, had oil bath air cleaners. Do not be shy about asking your questions, this is a friendly place and newbies are welcomed and encouraged.
 

citizensoldier

Active member
3,981
17
38
Location
Northern Michigan. Smelt City
Welcome to the club! Vintage Wiring of Main will make you a harness but I am not sure of his prices lately. YES! Always unhook the ground or you might end up with a pile of ashes if the wires are as bad as you say. I have seen this truck on ebay a couple of times and even considered buying it but it was just to far for me. OD iron Mike had one of these in FL but I am not sure what he did with it.
The manifolds for the 230 flathead can be found fairly easy.. In fact if you have trouble I have some good used ones here I would sell you one.. Check with AB linn in NC he might still have some NOS ones. Ebay is good to for the manifold.. I have one of these trucks and enjoy it very much..
A Cummins would be sweet in it!!:-D
 

DeuceNewb

Member
397
6
18
Location
Wilmington, NC
oil in the air cleaner sounds like its an oil bath type air cleaner, the oil creates a film on the screen to trap dirt before going into the motor. That is how my two 56 pontiacs are
 

Detonation

New member
9
0
0
Location
Laredo, Texas
On welding the manifold, it can be done and last many many years, but it has to be done right. You have to grind the crack completely out, and I usually go 1/2 further out, about 1/8" from the bottom, if not all the way through (depends on how bad the crack is). Preheat, preheat, preheat. Interpass temperature shouldn't drop too much, peen each weld as it cools, preheat some more. Do as many passes as neccessary (depending on what welders you have available, but I've had good luck with ni-rod 55. When your done welding, heat it up good and hot, and bury it in sand for a few hours.
 

vegard

New member
23
0
1
Location
bethesda MD
Thanks for all the replies and information. And yes, this is the ebay truck. I watched it relist like 4 times, and finally caved in and bought it. Basically I really like the look of the truck and the body on this one is in fantastic shape.

I am going to redo some wiring today... I will disconnect everything but what is needed for the engine, and worry about that stuff later. Im going to start with the battery cables, and then the coil. The generator scares me a little, it has alot of wires, but hopefully Ill do that too.

Good news on the aircleaner... that had me very confused.

Heres my questions for the day:

1. Do I have a oversized/non standard generator? It does not look like the wiring diagrams, and it is connected to heatsinks mounted infront of the radiator.
2. Are all my lights there and correct? and do I need to add more for turn signals, or can I rewire the existing marker lights? (I plan to get this, by the way: M-Series Turn Signal Control S-B100/11613632-1 - Army Surplus Warehouse - Army Surplus Warehouse I think Garbee's website states that I can use a modern flasher with this)
3. Can I get 12v headlight inserts? Im going to convert everything but the engine to 12v, to prepare for the engine swap down the road.

Thanks alot for the responces. I will keep you guys updated on the progress.

- Vegard
 

Attachments

citizensoldier

Active member
3,981
17
38
Location
Northern Michigan. Smelt City
yes on the generator.. It has a 100 amp system and lots of extras under the dash compared to a regular M37 instead of a 60 amp standard. You will probably want to switch to a 12 volt alternator setup if you go with 12 volt. If your not going with a strict restoration there will be lots of stuff you can do away with electrically .
At a glance the outside body looks complete.. It is missing the little step under the rear ladder and the foam gun though.
 

citizensoldier

Active member
3,981
17
38
Location
Northern Michigan. Smelt City
I would maybe contact David Doyle on here. He is very schooled in these trucks and can further enlighten you on many things about it.. It might take some time for him to get back with you right now I know he is busy with the MVPA national show right now.
 
Top