Just got an R2 crash truck

[Capt.Marion]

1. Do I have a oversized/non standard generator? It does not look like the wiring diagrams, and it is connected to heatsinks mounted infront of the radiator.
Answered....

2. Are all my lights there and correct? and do I need to add more for turn signals, or can I rewire the existing marker lights? (I plan to get this, by the way: M-Series Turn Signal Control S-B100/11613632-1 - Army Surplus Warehouse - Army Surplus Warehouse I think Garbee's website states that I can use a modern flasher with this)
Yes, you have all of the lights. The turn signal unit simply uses the marker lights. The question is- are your marker lights still functional?
Also- with the linked "Turn Signal Control," you also need the actual flasher unit box, too...

3. Can I get 12v headlight inserts? Im going to convert everything but the engine to 12v, to prepare for the engine swap down the road.
You can. How do you propose converting everything but the engine to 12V? I'd just switch the engine to 12V too... either get a 12V coil for the military distrib., or replace the oil pump with a civvy one and also a civvy distributor, for a Dodge T245 engine....

 

[vegard]

Thanks capt marion.
The way i plan to convert everything but the engine is to have the lights run off one battery. I rewired the starter, ignition and the generator today, and as I suspected, the generator doesnt work right. I think the cheapest way right now would be to get a one-wire generator. I read somewhere that the delco 10si unit would work... can anyone confirm this? how does it fit? I am thinking of getting this one: New Alternator 10SI Delco 1 Wire Hookup 50 AMP 24 Volt:eBay Motors (item 290332565452 end time Aug-17-09 21:21:36 PDT)

as much as Id like to convert everything to 12v, I just dont want to sink too much money into an engine that i will be pulling out. Getting a new dist, starter, etc. just isnt worth it.
the only reason Im doing the lights is that I dont want to go through them again wiht new bulbs, etc. later when I do the engine swap.

That bit of info about the turnsignals and the marker lights is very usefull. I believe with that turn signal switch I can use a modern flasher unit, and I have a couple floating around.

Here are some pics of the new battery tray and some of the wiring...

I am going to a family reunion this weekend, so there will be no more progress until next week. I did drive it again today, until the battery ran out atleast (no generator working...).

If someone can confirm that the alternator I linked to works, it would be mucha apprechiated so I can get that ordered and on the way asap.

Thanks for the replies.

- Vegard

 

[NDT]

As much as I like original things, I would not run with the 100 amp system. I had one of those blow on me at 50 mph. The generator locked, 4 belts started to scream, the "heat sink" in front of the radiator which is a selenium rectifier caught fire, and I was scared to death. Keep it in case you ever sell the truck to an ultra-purist. The R-2 has a special version of the 100 amp system to power rescue equipment.

 

[vegard]

update

today's update....

I have a 10si alternator on the way, and hopefully a exhaust manifold. I also have h4 headlights coming and some wiring stuff. I pulled all the lights off the truck and I am going through them. so far they look ok, minus the wiring and rubber seals. I cant find the adapter for my camera, so no pics today, but here are my questions:

1. Are the stock lights enough to run safely on the street? I do plan to do some driving in this thing.
2. What kind of part goes on the waterpump for the bypass? The truck had some hacked pvc pipe with hoseclamps that leaked. Is there a formed hose or something for this application? basically there are two hose nipples, one on the thermostat housing and one on the waterpump. they are pointed in such a way that it would be really difficult to just use a hose.


Thanks in advance for the help, and I will continue to document the progress, hopefully with pictures.

- Vegard

 

[vegard]

if I had some spare cash... this would be nice:
Military Green HMMWV HUMVEE Retrofit Light Kit #82340-5:eBay Motors (item 350233343286 end time Aug-05-09 10:31:42 PDT)

 

[M-37Bruce]

if I had some spare cash... this would be nice:
Military Green HMMWV HUMVEE Retrofit Light Kit #82340-5:eBay Motors (item 350233343286 end time Aug-05-09 10:31:42 PDT)

http://www.saturnsurplus.com/lights/lights.htm

You could go to Saturn Surplus for a third of that total!
JMHO,

 

[vegard]

Dont worry, Im not planning on buying that... those are LED lights though, where the saturn ones are not.
I do want to get some opinions from m37 owners about whether they think the stock lights are sufficient to drive around with in traffic, etc. If the answer is no, I will get some newer military surplus lights like these: Results for M-Series Common Parts:lights / lenses

 

[Capt.Marion]

The stock lights work fine in traffic. They are quite noticeable, even in broad daylight.

As for the bypass on the top of the water pump, check out the Cooling Systems section of TM 9-2320-212-20... that should show you what it's supposed to look like.

 

[neverfinished]

Great find! Look up Military Media on the web and get the cd that has all the manuals for the M37 series. It's the best $20 you'll spend on your truck. Have fun.

 

[vegard]

progress

Just want to give an update. I made some progress last week.

First, the truck is now running well and reliably. I have been driving it around town (it gets LOTS of looks and questions)
I put in the delco 24v 10si alternator. I had to do some machining to get the stock pulley to fit. I also made a space for the lower mount. With that it bolted in nicely.

I also fixed my waterleak with a shaped hose that fit nicely.
Last, I put in new batteries with military terminals.
I have new lights coming, including side markers and stuff, all surplus. I will retain the blackout functionality. The new lights are Hmmwv style with larger lenses. I also have halogen headlight inserts on the way.

I plan to wire up the gauges today, and hopefully start removing the exhaust manifold. the front cylinder port is completely cracked off.
I hope that all the bolts will come apart nicely, but I am prepared for the worst.

Next week I will wire up the lights and stuff, and setup my 12v system. I also have some nice hornes and a siren that I think I will hook back up.

A couple pictures... If anyone wants more details on the alternator upgrade, I can make up some drawings of the modifications needed.
Lastly, any parts that I pull off the truck permanently are up for grabs. Right now that means the lights and the stock generator/regulator/rectifier. The parts are not functioning but repairable. Just pay for shipping, or pick up the parts.

- Vegard

 

[citizensoldier]

Dont give up on me! I had to pull one off a engine for you.. Took time that I dont seem to have much of anymore.. I will get it to you.. On a positive note its a real nice manifold... I had two off of 230's already but they were car engines so they dumped in the wrong spot.. dug into my stash of M37 engines to get you a good one.

 

[vegard]

Sweet! Thanks, citizen. Im going to start pulling the old one off soon. I started spraying with the PB this morning. Looks like its going to be a pain, pulling the whole intake and carbeurator and stuff. I like that all the vacuum lines are hard lines. No wonder these trucks last!

- Vegard

 

[vegard]

wiring

progress....
I try to do a little each day after work....

I got the instrument panel wired in. Took out the gas level sender, and tested it on the bench, hooked to the gauge (I wanted to make sure this worked correctly). I also rewired the hi/lo beam switch. I am now ready to wire all the lighting.
the red indicator lights are really cool!

the new lights and the turn signal switch arrived, just waiting on the fuse panel and H4 headlights. I will begin running the main body harnesses tomorrow, hopefully.

- Vegard

 

[vegard]

Also, after some driving around, I think it needs some better mirrors. I am thinking the hmmwv mirrors would work really well and look good. Does anyone have some, or a reasonable source?
Thanks.

 

[vegard]

update....
I made up a trailer hitch for it.
the stock pintle setup still bolts right in.
I cut the hole in the rear crossmember into a square, then made a plate that was welded to a receiver hitch. I also made up some brackets for the safety chain.
I have yet to rewire the lights.... hopefully soon though. I did remount and wire the horn and siren.

 

[tonypeyre]

I'm restoring an R2 to original condition and I'm looking for ANY original parts,
specifically equipment and accesories unique to R2. I'm interested in any parts
you may be pulling off. Please PM me. Thanks

 

[Sidi]

If possible, could you supply the Brill serial number and the date of manufacture? If the data plate is still on the bottom right side of the passenger seat, that's where the Brill serial number is located and it's a hypenated number. The delvery date should be on the dash board. It should show a 1956 year. Thanks

 

[vegard]

Update:
Sidi, the serial number on the passenger seat is 260-257, the date is 6-22-56. Model R-2 Why do you ask?

As far as progress....
slow going as I have too many distractions. I did finish the wiring (minus the interior dome lights)
All the chassis wiring is now 12v, and working perfectly. I used the later model lights and retained all the blackout functions. I also have all the gauges working and lighting up. I went ahead and wired it for a 7 way flat RV trailer connector and a brake controller. I ran all the trailer wiring through the fuse panel, so problems with the the trailer wont kill the vehicle lights. Speaking of fuses, it has a modern ATC/ATO fuse panel, and modern flasher and relays to run the headlights and horn. I will post more pictures of the wiring later. The surplus turn signal switch works beautifully.

I also decided that I will move the tail lights up into the main body. I have the buckets used on Humvees that I will flush mount in the rear. I can then fabricate some bumperettes that will fit nicely where the tail lights were. I will have to modify the ladder and remove the slave outlet to do it, but I think it will look and work a lot better. Currently, I worry about hitting the taillights on obstacles as they are the lowest point on the departure angle.

- Vegard

 

[Sidi]

Thanks for relaying the serial number data. My request is purely historical in nature. I'm trying to piece together the timeline between when the M56 chasis was built and delivered to AC Brill, to when the final product was assembled, approximately three years later. The R-1 could have played a part in this odd build schedule too? Or design issues and suppliers?

 

[bigbee]

The R-1 could have played a part in this odd build schedule too?

Didn't know there was an R-1. Not mentioned in any of my references, unless I just missed it somehow. Not to hijack the thread, but could you provide more info?