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Just got my first 5 Ton

Hawkdriver

New member
13
0
0
Location
French Camp/Ca
Hello to everyone. I just picked up a 1989 M923 A2 a few days ago. She reads 27,000 miles and is pretty complete from what I can see. Runs really well and only has a few minor issues. I've been learning a lot already from you guys on here and have so much more still to learn. Other then the usual issues like tr CTIS which I will get to eventually it has developed a problem with the engine shut off solenoid. Sometimes it won't retract to allow the engine to start. If I hold it open and start the truck it will hold it open. I was wonders if the solenoid is going bad or if it might be in the switch. Sorry about the long post but I'm just really excited about my new truck. image.jpg
 

MuleMac01

Military vehicle collector
Steel Soldiers Supporter
913
179
43
Location
Las Vegas Nevada
Welcome try to get the mich XL tire off the front of the truck try to move it to the back I've seen a lot of things go wrong with them ( the blow out kind) if they ever been flat.
 

Hawkdriver

New member
13
0
0
Location
French Camp/Ca
Thanks much I appreciate it this site is awesome and MuleMac01 I had no idea. That has me worried now. I will see what I can do. Only bad thing is two of the back tires I know have been partially flat at one point due to the CTIS.
 

Hawkdriver

New member
13
0
0
Location
French Camp/Ca
After reading that I went out and looked at my truck and noticed the left front is a goodyear and my spare is a goodyear so I think I can switch out the Mich XL with the spare as the spare looks pretty good. And I think my shut off solenoid is ok but I just have a low voltage due to some tired batteries. I also noticed the box that is under the metal cover on the passenger side floor board has a slight air sound coming from it when the truck is running. I looked closer and on the right side of the box there is a threaded hole with nothing in it where the small amount of air is coming from. Is there something supposed to be there?
 

Hawkdriver

New member
13
0
0
Location
French Camp/Ca
All lights blink continuously and after reading threads I checked and found it has schrader valves placed in the back wheels. I still have more to read and learn about it but Im thinking the valves on the wheels must have leaked and someone put the schrader valves in them. I was going to look into rebuilding those valves in the future. It also had the parking brake light on with the buzzer even with the brake off. Air pressure is good in both tanks and the switch on the parking brake seems to work when you move it back and forth. I unplugged the cannon plug to get the buzzing to stop for now but still have more research to do to learn more about it and how to fix both of these issues. Everything else seems to be really good on the truck. She starts right up as soon as you touch the start switch and runs great with good pressures and temps. Im seriously loving this truck and just trying to fix these little issues as time allows me to research.
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,871
497
83
Location
Gray Court SC
What I would do until you get all the air leaks fixed on valves and tires is unhook the ecu it can mess with it's mind and can change set points due to excessive defaults. Have power off and disconnect the wire on the back of the ecu which is on the side of the shifter tower. Never unhook or hook up the ecu with battery power on it can fry the ecu.
 

Snowtiger

New member
158
1
0
Location
British Columbia
Congratulations on the new truck, I know exactly how you feel. To know your past the point of no return name it, oh and Godzilla is taken lol. I'm curious if I'm the only one out there who nick named their truck that :naner:
 

mahdey

Member
213
5
18
Location
Ft. Knox KY
The second mine started to act up I yanked it off. There is a manual lever for shut off. That is what i use. The issue is that the elctro magnet in the sos gets weak and cannot suck the plunger back in.
 

swbradley1

Modertator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
14,263
1,767
113
Location
Dayton, OH
The issue is that the elctro magnet in the sos gets weak and cannot suck the plunger back in.
I'm curious. How can a piece of wire wrapped around a paramagnetic material weaken? Does the susceptibility of the material change somehow?

Given a piece of wire wrapped around a bar that can be magnetized while current is applied but not retain the magnetism with power removed isn't going to lose turns or any of the material just floats away what makes it weaken? I really want to know.

When I hear hoof beats I think horses, not Zebras. The solenoid is dirty and or needs the proper lubricant to function properly.
 

Coffey1

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,871
497
83
Location
Gray Court SC
Two things happen to coils the wire inside burns into or overheating of wire melts coating off wire then shorts and burns wire into .
 

VPed

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,109
307
83
Location
Clint, TX
I have found that the solenoids on the A2's require FULL battery voltage to pull in (in addition to moving freely/lube). If they do not pull in, you can manually push it in with power on and it will stay, than you can start the truck. This has happened to me on two trucks and with a new solenoid. Once the batteries are up to full voltage, no issues. If I let the truck sit for several weeks without use, the voltage drop will be enough to cause the problem again.

On a truck I bought from GL and recovered, the batteries were dead-dead. It literally took two weeks with my chargers to bring the batteries back. But once I did, no more issues with the solenoid. During the time I was bringing the batteries back, I simply removed the solenoid and used the cable stop. The truck would crank and start fine after 48 hours of battery charger time but again, it took weeks before the solenoid would work.

By the way, if it does not pull in and it stays that way with power applied, the solenoid will get very hot, eventually burning up.
 
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