Just received my mep-016d

[aceofspd]

First I want to give thanks for this great site. I have been lurking for some time wanting to buy a diesel generator for my home.
So I bid on this generator, bidding more than I should have and thinking it wa closer to me. Hoping to be out bid, I was high bidder by less than the minimum increase. The point being that with service charge, tax, and shipping, I might have a very expensive piece of scrap.
Ok, at first look it looks Ok for it's age. Pulled starter rope, not sized as others have reported. Fuel tank is a mess. removed and assembled it. Fuel filler all gummed up and torn . Inside cleaned enough to give starting a try.
Oil looked new, air filter looks clean, surface rust on the fly wheel cover, gauges yellowish, 47 hours.
Hit compression release and gave it a pull. Sounded like it tried to start. Second pull and it started and quit. Fuel not on and throttle not in start position. Restarted, plugged in a 5hp shop vac. IT MAKES POWER, how cool.
Point of interest, there is NO starter on this unite. Guess I do not have to worry about getting a pair of batteries and wiring a start switch and charger. Even though it is hard to pull the rope with any velocity, this baby wants to start.
What I need to know is where to get an "in tank" fuel filler and /or a complete Tank?
How does that float level switch Work? Has anyone made a manual override Switch?
Electrical question, since I do not need 240 in an emergency, can I hook a single 120 volt output to both legs at the same Time? This will eliminate trying to create a balanced load and no modifications to the genny.
Thank again for this great site.
Greg

 

[steelandcanvas]

Delk's is a good place to start for genset parts.

Delk's Army Navy Surplus_Generators

 

[ETN550]

First I want to give thanks for this great site. I have been lurking for some time wanting to buy a diesel generator for my home.
So I bid on this generator, bidding more than I should have and thinking it wa closer to me. Hoping to be out bid, I was high bidder by less than the minimum increase. The point being that with service charge, tax, and shipping, I might have a very expensive piece of scrap.
Ok, at first look it looks Ok for it's age. Pulled starter rope, not sized as others have reported. Fuel tank is a mess. (TYPICAL FOR THESE UNITS) removed and assembled it. Fuel filler all gummed up and torn . Inside cleaned enough to give starting a try. (I SANDBLAST THEM ON THE INSIDE BUT A PRESSURE WASHER OR COIN CAR WASH STRIPS A LOT OF IT OUT PRETTY GOOD)
Oil looked new, air filter looks clean, surface rust on the fly wheel cover, gauges yellowish, 47 hours.
Hit compression release and gave it a pull. Sounded like it tried to start. Second pull and it started and quit. Fuel not on and throttle not in start position. Restarted, plugged in a 5hp shop vac. IT MAKES POWER, how cool.
Point of interest, there is NO starter on this unite. (THEY USUALLY HAVE A STARTER AND A BIG ROUND NATO CONNECTOR ON THE FRONT BELOW THE ROPE STARTER TO JUM THEM OFF OF ANOTHER 24VOLT MILITARY UNIT) Guess I do not have to worry about getting a pair of batteries and wiring a start switch and charger. Even though it is hard to pull the rope with any velocity, this baby wants to start. (PULL SLOWLY UNTIL IT GETS RESISTANCE, STOP, DEPRESS THE RED COMP RELEASE ON TOP THEN GIVE THE ROPE A SOLID YANK. THEY START VERY WELL ON THE ROPE IN WARMER CLIMATES.)
What I need to know is where to get an "in tank" fuel filler and /or a complete Tank? (THEY ARE ON E-BAY FOR $5.99 EACH. BUT... SAVE THE RUBBER GASKET ON THE BOTTOM, SAVE THE O-RING ON THE PETCOCK MUST REMOVE THE 2 PETCOCK NUTS TO REMOVE THE FILTER. VERY IMPORTANT!!! THE FILTERS HAVE A PIN HOLE IN THE TOP PLASTIC DOME AND THERE IS A DOME LID WITHOUT A PINHOLE THAT SNAPS OVER THE DOME ON THE REPLACEMENT FILTER. YOU MUST INSTALL THE SNAP ON DOME WITHOUT THE PIN HOLE OVER THE PLASTIC DOME ON THE FILTER WITH THE PIN HOLE WHEN REPLACING FILTERS. THE PIN HOLE IS AN AIR BLEED AND THE DOME TRAPS AIR AND DOES NOT ALLOW UNFILTERED FUEL TO ENTER THE PIN HOLE ON THE DOME OF THE FILTER.) SEARCH "186F" ON E-BAY FOR PARTS. FUEL TANK, COMPLETE IS $55 BUT DOES NOT HAVE THE HOLES FOR THE MILITARY FLOAT SYSTEM.)
How does that float level switch Work? Has anyone made a manual override Switch? (I'M SORRY TO SAY IT IS A POORLY ENGINEERED SYSTEM AT BEST SO ABANDONING OR RE-ENGINEERING IT IS NOT OUT OF THE QUESTION
1. THE ENGINE FYWHEEL MAG SENDS AROUND 55 VOLTS A/C TO THE TINY RECTIFIER TO THE RIGHT OF THE ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP. THE A/C TO THE RECTIFIER ARE THE 2 GREEN/WHITE WIRES.
2. THE RECTIFIER 55V DC OUTPUT (SOLID GREEN WIRE TURNS TO RED) SENDS UNREGULATED 55 VOLTS DC TO THE FLOAT UNDER THE TANK. THE 4TH WIRE ON THE RECIFIER IS THE GROUND AT THE RECTIFIER MOUNTING BOLT WHICH IS ALSO THE RIGHT SIDE FUEL PUMP MOUNT BOLT.
3. THE FLOAT ASSEMBLY IS ACTUALLY A RELAY FLOAT SYSTEM ALL IN ONE. THE RED WIRE IS THE (+) FEED FROM THE RECTIFIER AND THE BLACK IS GROUND AND THE YELLOW IS OUTPUT. THE SYSTEM IS "SUPPOSED" TO ENERGIZE THE YELLOW WHEN THE TOP TANK IS LOW AND DE-WNERGIZE THE YELLOW WHEN THE TOP TANK IS FULL. IF ONE OF THE TWO FLOATS IS BAD OR THE RELAY CONTACTS ARE BAD THEN THE SYSTEM WILL EITHER NOT FILL FUEL, FUEL AND MAINTAIN AT A VERY LOW LEVEL (WHICH ONLY COVERS THE BOTTOM 1/4 INCH OF FILTER), MAINTAIN THE FUEL AT A HIGH LEVEL, OR OVER FLOW THE TANK. PART OF THE PROBLEM I BELIEVE IS THAT THE RELAY FLOAT DEVICE IS RATED FOR 24VOLTS NOT 55 VOLTS.
4. THE YELLOW WIRE GOES THROUGH A CONNECTOR AND TURNS WHITE THEN GOES THROUGH A CIRCUIT BREAKER THEN AN RF SUPPRESSOR AND THEN TO THE FUEL PUMP. THIS SYSTEM IS TOTALLY SEPARATE FROM ANY GENERATOR SIDE AND CONTROL BOX ELECTRONICS. AS LONG AS THERE IS FUEL IN THE TOP TANK THE UNIT WILL RUN AND GENERATE ELECTRICITY. I FINISHED FIXING 2 UNITS YESTERDAY AND COMPLETELY REMOVED THE ENTIRE BELLY TANK AND FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM TO THE TOP TANK LEAVING ONLY THE TOP TANK. THIS WORKS FOR MY CUSTOMER.
5. ANOTHER PROBLEM IS THAT THE STANDARD TOP FUEL TANK CAP IS USED WITHOUT MODIFICATION. IT HAS A FLAPPER VALVE IN THE MIDDLE OF IT TO ONLY ALLOW AIR IN BUT NOT OUT. THIS CAN BE A PROBLEM FOR THE FUEL PUMP TO PUSH FUEL INTO THE TANK WHEN THE CAP IS ON TIGHT. FORTUNATELY, IT LEAKS MORE OFTEN THAN NOT AND THE FUEL PUMP CAN OVERCOME IT.

A SIMPLE RELAIBLE FIX WOULD BE TO ELIMINATE THE FLOAT, RUN THE FUEL PUMP FULL TIME, PUT A SMALL ORFICE OR NEEDLE VALVE ON THE SUPPLY TO THE TOP TANK AND RETURN THE FUEL FROM ONE OF THE UPPER CONNECTIONS ON THE TOP TANK TO THE BOTTOM TANK. THEN THE UNIT WOULD BE RELAIBLE, HAVE FULL USE OF THE BOTTOM TANK AND USE THE TOP TANK WHEN THE BOTTOM TANK GOT EMPTY. ADDING A 24VDC REGULATOR TO THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT HURT EITHER.
Electrical question, since I do not need 240 in an emergency, can I hook a single 120 volt output to both legs at the same Time? This will eliminate trying to create a balanced load and no modifications to the genny. YES OPEN THE LID ON THE CONTROL BOX AND THERE IS A SWITCH TO 120 VOLT SINGLE PHASE. THEN YOUR L1 / L2 OUTPUT LUGS (ON THE SIDE OF THE CONTROL BOX) WILL DELIVER THE FULL LOAD AS A SINGLE 120 SOURCE. WHEN YOU HAVE THE LID OFF NOTE HOW TINY THE WIRE IS TO THE TWO OUTLETS. DO NOT PLUG ANYTHING IN OF SIZE ON THOSE OUTLETS. USE THE LUGS TO GET THE POWER TO A CORD AND AN OUTLET BOX ON THE CORD.
Thank again for this great site.
Greg

I inserted comments in caps above. these are great little sets and you will enjoy yours very much. BTW you can buy a 12 volt starter for about $68 same search parameter as above. Enjoy! And WELCOME !!

 

[aceofspd]

ETN550, I think I have read all of your posts about this unit. I had no hope that the in tank filter was a civilian part. I just received mine from Ebay. I did find one with thegasket for a couple dollars less than 5.99 + 5.99 shipping. This eases my mind about crude in the tank,thanks.
Some points of conversation
mine is the only one I have noticed that never had a starter (or sylinoid)
I Don't think the nato connector is common on the AC models
my float only has two leads and one float
your idea to run the fuel pump full time is very interesting but I am hoping to get it working
are the bottom tanks usually crud Free?

 

[ETN550]

I have not seen one configured without the starter and with only 1 float. Probably an improvement. They start very easy with the rope, usually first pull.

I have seen 2 types of belly tanks. A plastic one and a brass one. At least I think it is brass. I'm going to put a magnet to one tonight to see for sure. In any event I have not seen any issue with either version of the belly tank. As much as i can see inside with a light they all seem to be clean. Sometimes the drain plug threads are pretty messed up on the platic tank but despite how bad they look I've not had one leak. I suspect the Yanmar top tanks are bare steel and hence rust quickly when they sit with a partial load of fuel for extended time.

 

[dstang97]

Delk's is a good place to start for genset parts.

Delk's Army Navy Surplus_Generators

Don't even waist your time with Delks. They don't return calls or help you out.