just turned 100k, now what??

[kcbbqguru]

[h=1][/h] just turned over 100,000 miles, had a question about preventive maintenance? TM talks about changing the injector pump, is this something required? or should I just wait till it stops? thanks

 

[Warthog]

If it isn't giving you problems just wait.

congrats on your "new" truck.

 

[emr]

Never change anything that works, if you start changing things because a web site blog said to , You will run out of money fast.

 

[WARWAG]

Replace all of your muffler bearings.

 

[kcbbqguru]

Replace all of your muffler bearings.

I just replace the blinker fluid!

 

[Coffey1]

Its time to scrap and get new one lol

 

[GREENMV]

Ahhhhh The smell of a new truck..

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Ahhhhh The smell of a new truck..

That's funny, because I was thinking that, but not in a flattering way, when I rolled 32k this weekend.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Replace all of your muffler bearings.

Nah, that's an old wives tale. Just grease 'em and adjust 'em, and you're good to go for another 100k or so. I usually get 250k or so out of mine. I got almost 300k out of one set. Just keep 'em greased and adjusted and they'll surprise you how long they last.

 

[IdahoPlowboy]

And we used to joke about exhaust fluid...

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Exhaust fluid is great for lubricating flight line.

 

[Cucvnut]

I would look at your freeze plugs.

 

[Hasdrubal]

With all of the mechanically inclined types frequenting this site I'm astonished that no one has thought to suggest preventative replacement of some of the more wear critical components at 100K. Marzel vanes, novotrunnions and the fetzer valve will probaly be worn beyond tolerance. Also check that your grouting brushes are manestically spaced. Inspect the anhydrous nangling pins - the spurving bearings should be in a direct line with the panametric fan. The cyrptonactic bowling shim could be tankered. While you're in there consider replacing the johnson rod. On the charging system..the unilateral phase detractors should be tested for modial interaction of magneto reluctance and capacitive deractence. If worn out of round the main winding will not be capable of automatically synchronizing cardinal grammeters reducing sinusoidal depleneration. With the unilateral phase detractors, you might get away with just machining the panendermic semi-boloid slots in the stator. Although even experienced mechanics will appreciate the difficulty of nubbing together a regurgative perl well and a supernative weinel sprocket.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

I think that should be in the wiki. Really important stuff to check that just gets away from us. Let's keep these going into intergalactic space with collector plates. But don't forget your zerks!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

This should be a sticky. There's a lot of really important information here.

 

[nyoffroad]

With all of the mechanically inclined types frequenting this site I'm astonished that no one has thought to suggest preventative replacement of some of the more wear critical components at 100K. Marzel vanes, novotrunnions and the fetzer valve will probaly be worn beyond tolerance. Also check that your grouting brushes are manestically spaced. Inspect the anhydrous nangling pins - the spurving bearings should be in a direct line with the panametric fan. The cyrptonactic bowling shim could be tankered. While you're in there consider replacing the johnson rod. On the charging system..the unilateral phase detractors should be tested for modial interaction of magneto reluctance and capacitive deractence. If worn out of round the main winding will not be capable of automatically synchronizing cardinal grammeters reducing sinusoidal depleneration. With the unilateral phase detractors, you might get away with just machining the panendermic semi-boloid slots in the stator. Although even experienced mechanics will appreciate the difficulty of nubbing together a regurgative perl well and a supernative weinel sprocket.

I thought this was about CUCV's not space ships!

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I thought this was about CUCV's not space ships!

What are you talking about? This IS about CUCVs!



Well, anyway, back to the serious stuff....


My #1 son aspires to be a mechanic, and when I showed him this thread, he reminded me that it's very important to make sure the phaselator is coiled properly around the dispersamull. They have a tendency to unwind over time.

Just pop the cover (2 Allen screws) and take a look. You can rewind it manually, if it hasn't gotten to brittle. If it has, and cracks, you'll have to replace it. I think just about any parts store should carry it.

 

[swiss]

Time to take it back to a GL lot to get the driveshaft straightened and balanced. They do that for free now days if you stop by the lot and ask them to do this maintenance. The government is really looking out for us now days.

 

[GREENMV]

I think this Thread has boldly gone where no thread has gone before.

 

[4x4 Forever]

I think this Thread has boldly gone where no thread has gone before.

But I have seen several that have come close!

Seriously, do check the Kanuter valve. It's the valve that keeps positive pressure (0.5PSI) between the inner and outer sheet metal to keep it from rusting away. If the valve fails, your sheet metal will rust out.