Just won a M1010

[lavarok]

Keep in mind, the Leece Neville (LN from here on) alternator cannot output under 18v on it's own.

You can test this yourself by adjusting the regulator on the LN to the low setting and by applying different voltages to the field circuit. The lowest I could get mine to output was 18v. That was with a regulated 5v input to the field. Prestolite confirmed my findings when I contacted them.

Both the units on my truck have hardly seen use though, so maybe a used/broken in LN will produce lower voltages. My truck only has 6500 miles on it...yes I typed that right...6500 original miles.

 

[Keith_J]

Thanks for all the help, the downloads did a lot of clearing the "muddy water". Since I can troubleshoot and repair electronics down to component level, this seems to be the least cost repair.

Now, onto the M1010s air conditioner! Yes, devoid of any R12 pressure. Since that is $60 a pound and it will need 4-3/8 pounds, R406a might be worth the swap. The Harrison compressor should be compatible with this refrigerant as it uses the same mineral oil as R12. As a DIY, I will get the EPA 609 certification. Should be a snap .
I didn't see any refrigerant oil leaks, often an indicator of refrigerant leaks. Could be the Army required R12 recovery before DRMO and possible loss of refrigerant from yard "accidents". Plus it is money in their pockets

 

[lavarok]

My AC system was converted over to R134A. I was told by my AC tech that the compressor used on these trucks is bullet proof. I had some leaks in the hoses under my truck and replaced them.

Once that was fixed, I found the evap fans were shot. They kept blowing the fuse. I fixed one by taking it apart and cleaning it, but in the end I had two new evap fans built for me by Allied Motion. Part number is PV2490R.

I also had a bad relay in the rear compartment which I had to replace. It was the white relay that controls power to the compressor clutch. It was a hard item to locate.

I am still waiting for some warm summer days to put it to the real test, but she blows cold.

On a side note, the fuel fired heater will really warm you up quick on a cold day! Those things blow HOT!

 

[Keith_J]

Yes, the Harrison compressor is a bulletproof draft horse, it is an evolution of the Frigidaire units.

I don't like R134a conversions because of lubricant swap. The R406a refrigerant uses the same lubricant so there is no issue with seals or lines. A complete kit for total charge and retrofit is ~ $120, far less than a R12 fill.

 

[StreetbikeDepot]

Did you end up having a jump seat in it? If not I have a new one if your interested in it.

 

[mkcoen]

Did you end up having a jump seat in it? If not I have a new one if your interested in it.

I did have the jump seat, but thanks any way. The only thing that seems to be missing is the large cross panel on the roof of the box, the block and tackle and the pad that goes over one of the hanging litters.

A lot of damage on the roof of the cab that wasn't visible in the GL photos, spot of rust through on the driver's cab corner, busted windshield, and the obligatory GL bent drive shaft, but everything else was per the photos.

I've got the windshield and drive shaft replaced already and fortunately a brand new set of front tires (off of my gen trailer). Took it out on the highway yesterday and it seems fairly comfortable at about 60mph. Doubt I could (or would) push it much past that though.

 

[Keith_J]

A replacement DUVAC, if you can find one, will most likely cost as much or more than a solid battery equalizer. Your assessment of how the DUVAC works is partially correct. The system (DUVAC) is compromised of a voltage regulator and a batter isolator. It is supposed to provide both 28v and 14v when required. 28v is the default mode and there is a wire swap trick detailed in another thread that changes the default mode to 14v, credit goes to CUCVFAN for coming up with this trick. It didn't work for me, but it is worth a try.

...

Good luck!

Thanks for the good luck, all that was wrong was one of the diodes, NSN 6145-01-192-1643, GM part number 12006377. Since GM no longer supports the M1010, that is a rare part on the GM network and at least one other has it..Once Upon a Part

But it is a COTS diode, original was Motorola which cross referenced to a 600V, 1 amp rectifier so we swapped out a Radio Shack special with perfect success at much less cost. Front battery now is happy at 14.25 volts and the dash voltmeter is right in the green, on the bottom of the white center hash (28.5). Before, the front battery was pegging over 18 volts after the engine ran for a few minutes, indicating the external regulator was not sensing battery state. I could smell the acrid stench of boiled battery, not good for long life.

From what I can tell, the TB addresses the fire hazard on the 12 V main line by inserting a fusible link (wire 4" long, 4 numeric gauge smaller than the main line with fire resistant insulation). This is not updated on the -20 and -34 wiring diagrams on the respective copies available here.

 

[lavarok]

What was the radio shack part number? That is awesome that you got it working...truly awesome!

 

[Keith_J]

What was the radio shack part number? That is awesome that you got it working...truly awesome!

I don't remember but mkcoen has spares and will post tomorrow. I think Catalog #: 276-1144 which are 1N5404 but that may be wrong. They look right.

I do have a few onions now...and a dozen quarts of premium egg nog .

Yeah, what to do with 50 pounds of onions?

 

[lavarok]

A 12v gauge inside the truck might be useful to monitor the DUVAC. The normal GEN1 and GEN2 light wont indicate if there is a problem for this scenario. I've been thinking about adding one to monitor my battery equalizer.

 

[Keith_J]

A 12v gauge inside the truck might be useful to monitor the DUVAC. The normal GEN1 and GEN2 light wont indicate if there is a problem for this scenario. I've been thinking about adding one to monitor my battery equalizer.

Outstanding idea. Because the bottom alternator is what the voltmeter is reporting. And the 1010 has no generator lights, only the voltmeter. Now we were talking about a 12 volt outlet (lighter socket style) so a cheapie which plugs in there would do the trick! Cheap, simple and minimal modification.

Had me wondering since the headlights are aimed WAY HIGH. For a moment I thought the diode had burned out again and lights were over-volt and bright. On the ride home tonight, we were constantly flashed by oncoming traffic. High beams were in the trees . Low beams are aimed as if high beams.

I would suspect the -20 has the specifications. Probably the NEW rubber on the front, pretty Uniroyals off his generator trailer.

 

[Cucvnut]

more pics

 

[Keith_J]

more pics

I brought my camera today. And forgot the batteries.

Spent all of 5 minuted diagnosing the problem, then 2 hours of traveling to get the part, then do assorted tasks before finally another 5 minutes of replacing the burnt diode (soldered the new one to the old leads, didn't want to fry the holder socket).

Eventually, I will have pictures. This is a work in progress as I am the "flight engineer" for the great western trip this summer.

 

[Cucvnut]

you guys are going to Mojave ?

 

[Keith_J]

you guys are going to Mojave ?

Yep. And my main mission now is to repair, recharge and make perfect the 42,000 BTU/hour air conditioning system.

This is centered around the beautiful Frigidair/Harrison A6 axial compressor, the longish refrigerant lines (must properly support the joints, any vibration will kill seals), the condensor and evaporator blowers. Everything must operate at peak performance.

Since the Montreal Protocol has made dichlorodifluormethane (R-12) horribly expensive and this beast needs 70 ounces of this refrigerant, I have suggested the drop in retrofit R-406A. This is an ASHRAE-designated zeotropic blend of R-142b, R-22 and a bit of isobutane to aid in lubricant dissolution. Most other replacements are buggy in this respect or require lube switch. And being a zeotrope (boiling point range is wider than single component types), it offers a bit more performance over straight R-12.

It all depends on the results of a 24 hour vacuum test. If it won't hold a vacuum, then total rebuild would be needed and a switch to R-134A would be ideal. Yeah, you could flush the system with PAO ester oils and pray but traversing the Mojave in such a system? I don't gamble like that.

 

[Cucvnut]

what are you going to be doing out in the desert ?

 

[Keith_J]

what are you going to be doing out in the desert ?

A 5200 mile road trip through most of the Western United States, visiting the VA hospitals along the way for support of mkcoen's organization.

See his sig line for more info. I am but the vehicle engineer/wrench spinner. Just think of me as Scotty (James Doohan) to mkcoen's Kirk. And warp factor 4 is about 62 MPH in this M1010. But it will have all the creature comforts except transporter, cool phasers, a logical Vulcan or female companionship (although I have a few friends in the LA area of that persuasion)

 

[mkcoen]

What was the radio shack part number? That is awesome that you got it working...truly awesome!

Ian, part number is 276-1144 for Radio Shack. They were under $2 for a package of 2 so I bought 2 packs in case we need spares for the trip. They're listed on the package as "Epoxy Rectifier Diodes - 3 amps 400 PIV"

CUCVFreek - as Keith_J said, we are doing a Wester US VA Hospital Tour to promote Veterans Fighting Multiple Sclerosis. The M1010 is the perfect platform for getting the attention we need. Hopefully a little local newspaper publicity along the way as well. Here's a thread with a little more about the trip although most of the updates have been here.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/militar...road-trip.html

 

[Cucvnut]

There is a VA Hospital in PaloAlto near stanford are you going there ? its near San jose in the bay area if so i would love to join you guys with my MV

 

[K9Vic]

Have you considered Freeze 12?
freeze 12 r12,FREEZE12 COMPATIBLE R12 REPLACEMENT A/C REFRIGERANT

I used this on a 90 Ford Crown Victoria and it worked great. You do have to find a mechanic that is licensed to install it, but it is a direct swap for R12. I have to fully tested my A/C on my M1010, but if it needs a recharge I was considering Freeze 12.