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Killing NHC 250s -what we have learned killing 3 of them.

Mos68x

Active member
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Location
Seligman,AZ
I happened to think of something for the coolant part, not the actual coolant itself but an additive. Run whatever coolant yer little heart desires, and this stuff would increase the thermal efficiency of it so that you could get cooler temps on the radiator outlet. It was actually tested on the Powerblock shows a while back, gimme a sec to look for it again....

I think it was Royal Purple's Purple Ice, can't get my internet page to load for some reason.
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
Supporting Vendor
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Location
Mason, TN
His heat exchanger is causing most of his coolant heat issues especially running up hills or bogging it in high range. It doesnt take much. You want a cooler running engine go to a high flow electric water pump and all aluminum radiator plus a air to air transmission cooler before the exchanger.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

acme66

New member
349
8
0
Location
Plains, Montana
So a guy comes down off the mountain after the busiest week of tours so far to shower, poop someplace where the water swirls around and use a little borrowed wifi only to be greeted with my least favorite part of SteelSoldiers, the wolf pack. Let’s make this quick, it is my birthday and I am supposed to go climb a mountain with my son.

ELC Coolant: It is true that there are some ELC’s that contain the nitrates and acids but as long as your coolant meets the Cummins spec CES14603 then you are going to be fine and it is what the company recommends. My last stuff was a Fleetguard product and I have topped up with a Chevron stuff. You are looking for the red coolant with that CES14603 or better number. However you can use essentially ANY coolant you want as long as you are dip testing for PH every 6 moths or so. All coolants will get acidic with time. Here is the great part, you don’t have to trust me at all, just call Cummings and ask them. Cummins Care at 1-800-CUMMINS™ (1-800-286-6467) in North America. This is like the IBIS towbar and running motor oil in the Allison all over again. Just call the manufacturer on questions like this, don’t trust strangers on the internet. Have your motor’s serial number handy. However it is important that you have the proper cavitation additive.

Read up on cavitation here:
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/s...oduct_lit/asia_pacific_brochures/3300963A.pdf

It is our assertion however that while these motors have a serious cavitation issue that is not what has been killing our motors. Cummins can confirm that the ELC DID NOT HARM OUR LINERS OR O-RINGS (remember you can use any ELC as long as it doesn’t go acidic on you but I would just run what the motor manufacture specs) We think the NHC 250 is a motor at the edge of it’s operating parameters and a few tweaks either direction can cause failure. I firmly believe that most if not all of the NHC failure attributed to o-ring failure in situations where the liner has not been perforated is the result of extended periods of high EGT


Cylinder liner picture 1 (not our liners or picture)
Liner 1.jpg
So as you can see in this picture, the large red arrow represents the area of the piston liner that is bathed 360 in coolant. This is very efficient in terms of wicking heat away. The lower small red arrow represents the o-ring sealing area at the bottom of the liner. That area gets it’s cooling from direct contact with the block. Also because the lower edge of the liner sticks down below it can radiate heat. As the combustion cycle operates the majority of the heating happens in the upper part where the water jacket can whisk it away. The exception is the top of the piston itself. The piston is aluminum, is a fantastic conductor of heat and is cooled in part by the exhaust and intake strokes, especially as atomized fuel floods in. However on power stroke it is hot and it is my opinion (based on research, consultation, conjecture and study) that what is happening inside the NHC is the piston transfers some of that heat thought the rings and oil coating the skirts to the lower section of the liner. All pistons naturally cock to one side or another just a little on their stroke, dragging some. I found in our torched motors that that corresponded to the area where the liner o-rings suffered the most serious damage. We think the pistons start to expand from the heat and start dragging more and more on the walls of the liner, building even more heat. Always in every motor, o-ring damage corresponded to the natural orientation of drag. Now when I asked around for EGT numbers on the NHC I got only a few responses. One responded with numbers that were as crazy hot as mine, one responded with how he had put a turbo on his NHC to bring the EGTs down to acceptable levels. Privately I was very sure that adding the turbo to an NHC would kill it but I took the time to listen to what he was saying, look over his material, benefit from the research he did and confirmed it with my own separately. I have come around but that is another issue.

Picture: SquirterSquirter.jpg

Now in most big motors this extra heat transferred to the piston by combustion is dissipated via oil squirters that pop the underside of the piston with a shot of oil. That pulls the heat out of the piston into the oil which is then cooled and sent back around. One of the things the heavy truck shops I brought my melted pistons and torched liners to kept saying was they thought I had a plugged squirter on that hole. They were confused to hear that the block didn’t have any and kept asking if I was sure. It is my opinion that the contract for these motors omitted that part simply as a cost savings item.

So how come the motors were fine in the older trucks? That I think is due in part to the manual transmission. I have never driven a M809 series so I don’t know how big the gear gap is or if it is comparable to the Allison. It makes sense to me however that they would be turning higher RPM. It is speculation on my part.

In these videos you can watch me push my truck over the pass to Ennis for the 4th of July parade. The Pyromiter is the bottom left on the sift column and you can watch me struggle to keep the RPMs high enough to bring the temps down below 1100 and despite my best efforts got nearly 1200 once or twice. To head off the preventative screaming about my temp and oil gauges. Yea they twitch and bounce around, I have confirmed them with a manual check and if I wiggle the wires they will settle down.

Video 1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5scPqShP8yQ

Video 2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dFCy0SeZlYc

Note how fast the EGT temps rise. I know the motor temps are hard to read but what I did was tap on the camera twice each time the fan clutched in. Motor never got over 185 even with EGTs near 1200. If I had let them I could have seen 1400 easy on this hill and that is way, way too high. I think if some of you put a pyrometer on your trucks you will see that you have been driving them at scary temps.

There still has to be a reason why I am having greater issues with this that other Allison trucks and I think that comes down to elevation and the shear number of miles I drive them. This year we will have close to 400 miles in low-range alone on the truck. In the mountains the already underpowered NHC is kicked down another 15 to 20%. I also don’t think they were that fine. While it is often said you can’t trust the odometers in these trucks I don’t feel the military is in the habit of swapping them for no reason and the odometer isn’t a high failure item. I have looked at a number of trucks while buying mine and they were all relatively low numbers, the highest I saw was 50,000 and the lowest was 6,000. You could tell by that truck, wear on the peddles, shifter, mats, hinges, linkage, spring hangers and what not that the truck had next to no mileage. That is why I bought it and it is the 925 we run today… but that truck had already been through a motor swap. I know the military will sometimes just take them out and put them in for practice or what not but still even that truck had a transplant. I think this has been an issue on the 939 trucks which is why they swapped to the 8.3. The motor has the same HP and would require all new supply chains. I know there is the right way, wrong way and the military way but it remains odd to me that they would bother to swap for a motor that is a little lighter, gets a few more MPGs but outputs the same HP. Don’t know, haven’t looked into that motor.

A few other points from the pack:

Test injector pump. It is a common rail system so you could run it just fine off of an electric fuel pump and a regulator. Other than checking to make sure they had not been turned up we have not messed with them or put a manual gauge on. Plan to but it is clear that isn’t the issue. Why do we know it isn’t an issue? Few clues, first no smoke from the stacks on any of the three different trucks, pickup was about as lousy as normal, they had the proper buttons, they were three completely different pumps with the same exact issues and one of them came directly from the motorpool to me with no opportunity for change. Sure it is possible I managed to three trucks with tweaked pumps but if they did it then they did it a strange way inside because as I said, they have the correct shims.

What about gulf war? Not sure the question. If it is about the ambient air temperature then the ambient air temperature has little or no effect on EGT. That isn’t how it works, you might want to study up on the subject then. If it was about did the trucks survive there under loaded war time conditions well I have only found and spoken to one motorpool guy (hardly a cross-section) and he said that anytime something went wrong they just dropped a motor in it and never messed with the why of it. That is all I know.

You are driving it wrong!!!!!! Well sure maybe, but I have been driving trucks of all types for a long time and have had none of these issues with other trucks. It is an automatic so the truck will downshift or upshift as programmed. Is the motor at such a fine ragged edge that the parameters of the tranny can cause killer EGT numbers? I think yes and the lack of quirters has taken any safety net away from the motor. But we are a commercial operation so I have over 600 hours of camera footage of me driving. If you are so entrenched at this point to still believe that we haven’t done so very, very much of our homework then feel free to watch for yourself. These 8 videos are most of an entire tour shot from the bed camera (the only one to record audio) have an honest look and tell me if I am beating on this truck hard enough to kill motors in any normal sense. Turn the sound down, camera is near speakers.
One: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1oPp4F0SqY
Two: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhhoTXxTmCY
Three: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hnhD0omB_bY
Four: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jB0JIkn0trQ
Five: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlwu6Q-KlNI
Six: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3M_QhCxXFsI
Seven: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YnTLLa7LkgE
Eight: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0_ub6Ece0Rk

To summarize, I drive these things commercially and put way, way more miles on the trucks than the average guy. We spend a lot of time and effort on researching issues related to our trucks and sharing that information to help others. At our elevation and mileage a year with me is probably five or more years of what I would call ‘average’ use for these trucks in private hands. I think that most of the mystery fuel issues are going to come down to EGT, I think most of the liner failures are going to be EGT. My firm belief is following my recommendations 1-5 will gain you serious life out of the motor. Once a few people put a pyro on I am sure it will become crystal clear whether or not we have drawn the correct conclusions.

Here is one of the fascinating bits I did have at my disposal, Donaldson’s EGT and CFM charts for this and other motors: http://www.asia.donaldson.com/en/exhaust/support/datalibrary/1053747.pdf


That is all the time you get from me on my birthday to deal with this, not even going to proof read it. If you can put forth your documentation so I can read it then I can maybe understand more about your position because it isn’t what I find when I am researching. I can put more of my documentation up once we are back home because they are not on this old laptop. Thanks for all the private messages both on and off SS. It has always been this way and probably always will. Off to climb a mountain with the boy.

Ken
 

simp5782

Feo, Fuerte y Formal
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Video 2. Your downshift point is 1750 to 1700. Your upshift should be 2100 to 2175 Your letting it bog too much down even with 14.00s by the time the heat rises you don't have enough air flow to induct to cool it down. 1500rpms is too low and 1950/2000 is not high enough. Especially on a grade. That few seconds of extra heat can take forever to cool down. You need to fab up a cold air intake. You are not crossing water higher than your front fender so make an air box in there and do away with your blackout light and make an air induction there. That way you have the speed in which you are going being forced into the engine. 900 cfms of air on a wix 44466 filter is all you need for that motor. Or simply go to an 809 series truck intake and mount it on the outside of the hood with a slip collar for pulling the hood.

But as far as I see on the temps rising it is that you are missing your maximum power on the shift points and that little bog is making that heat climb quick. That cummins pulls so much harder at 2150 to 2175 with 14.00s over the 2000 mark. When you find that gear she will pull with barely your foot on the pedal. Also when the heat rises sacrifice road speed for engine speed. If its hanging at 1850 or so and the temps rise let off, let the rpms drop, downshift and go back into the throttle to hold at 2000 to 2150.

Also when you go down as low as 2 on the shifter and you need the torque convertor to unlock simply release the throttle fully at 1600rpms and then pump the throttle to the floor, just a quick pop, and it will unlock it when you release and simply get back into the throttle to gain that 300 to 400rpms.
 
Last edited:

Josh

Active member
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Location
Portland, Oregon
I have an 84 M925 with the NHC250 that has had some work done to it by the previous owner. It has bigger injectors and a turbo (not sure of actual part number, Could find out if you are interested BC350 turbo/injectors) and I can hold about 50-55(on 1600s, 4th gear like 2000-2100ish, roughly 15lbs of boost) up a 6% grade while keeping the post turbo temps below 850. I need to install a pre-turbo pyro, but as of now, I'm using of 350 drop to for a little margin or error. If I ever bought another 939 series truck, the first thing I would do is put a turbo on it. Its night a day difference.

I don't drive my 5 ton as often as my deuce, But I have put almost 60k miles on a deuce and I'm doing about 150-200 miles a week in the 5 ton in both city and freeway driving.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
The 809 series trucks have a huge gap between 3rd and 4th. This is exacerbated with super singles.

The military usually (but not always) changed odometer and hour meter with any overhaul.

Simp drives one truck, and drives the **** out of it on the road, a bunch of miles . My experience has been over a bunch of different trucks, 2000-7000 miles on each.

Here's my typical scenario - buy 2 trucks at auction and make one run. Put the other on towbars behind it. Drive 1600miles from KS to AZ with foot on the floor. Service and go through both trucks in AZ.

If hard use would kill them, you'd think that dragging a dead one with another one that has been sitting for years would be the way to do it. There's some fairly impressive hills around ABQ and also between flagstaff and phoenix.

I did this a bunch. Lost one and only one truck, and it was a runner. It wasn't towing anything when it died while running on level ground between KS and OKC. It dumped the coolant in the oil.

I'm reluctant to believe that the military has these tuned anywhere near their capacity. The general rule is that the military detunes everything so that it lives forever. (I'd like to have oil squirters too). These were a milion mile engine in heavy otr trucks....

I'm inclined to attribute Ken's failed motors to the common denominator. Either the specifics of where they're being used, or the specific driving style. Either way, it's good data to have, if rather expensive to obtain...
 

red

Active member
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25
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Location
Eagle Mountain/Utah
Watching the 2 gauge videos explains it alot. Cruising along at about 1500rpm and 1150F ish on the EGT's then it downshifts, jumping up to 2000rpm and quickly drops down to 1000F ish on the EGT's. Good to see that you're keeping it below 1200F.

Also are you using high range? Take advantage of low range gearing. That will take alot of the load off of the engine and will still handle 25-30mph. All 5 forward gears in the trans are safe to use in low range.
 

JDToumanian

Active member
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Location
Phelan, CA
Notice in the second video at around 13 minutes, after you downshift, how much happier the engine is at 15 mph @ 2100 rpm instead of 18 mph @ 1400 rpm.
 
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