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Kinda got carried away..... M1028 rebuild

I'm assuming this is aimed at my last post, since there are some great pics of the beautifully-restored CUCV already posted. Anyway, to avoid hijacking this thread, I did a search and found the same OP had started a thread on the rag-joint upgrade and I posted at the bottom of that thread to avoid a forum faux paux. The thread is here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/72694-universal-replace-steering-rag-joint.html
I tried to upload some pics of the Jeep XJ mod I took on my "smart" phone, but it is evidently too smart for me, so I'll keep trying to figure out how to do this, and once I do, you'll have some pics of exactly what I did.
 

Sharecropper

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Thanks guys for the accolades. My truck is still in my shop waiting on me to finish the last few things to do. I drove it out to my farm last summer as a test trip and everything worked as planned. I still need to re-pack the front hubs, rebuild the injector pump, and install a new Fluidampr, and will try to get these done before springtime. My current work schedule has prevented me from working on the truck since last July. I will keep the thread fresh when I get the other things done.
 

CycleJay

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Sharecropper,

Looks great, nice truck, you did a great job.

Wish I could do that, maybe someday.
When I have the means, and everything else it takes to restore trucks like these.

All I can do now is repair when something breaks, and replace before other things break.

Good day,

CJ
 

Sharecropper

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July 27 2012 Update:

After a 5-month suspension of work on my M1028 due to a busy work schedule, I am back on the project. Over the past few weeks I cave completed the following:

* Complete rebuild of my original IP by Cincinnati Diesel Injection
* New NOS vacuum modulator valve on the side of the IP
* New NOS Hummer open-plane intake
* New injectors
* New GM fuel return hoses
* New glow plugs from CUCV Electric
* New GP relay from CUCV Electric
* New NOS CDR valve
* New GP contoller card from CUCV Electric
* New NOS vacuum pump
* New AC-Delco fuel pump
* New rubber fuel hoses everywhere

Next to be done -

* New NOS 24 volt starter (in hand ready to install)
* DIY Rock Guards and hand holds (in hand ready to install)
* New Fluidampr harmonic balancer (in hand ready to install)
* New belts
* New NOS IR lights (in hand ready to install)

My truck has now been in my shop since June 2010, other than a quick road trip out to my farm last fall to make sure all systems were AOK.

I will continue to post photos as the work progresses.

Thanks for looking.
 

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M1009 Fiend

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July 27 2012 Update:

After a 5-month suspension of work on my M1028 due to a busy work schedule, I am back on the project. Over the past few weeks I cave completed the following:

* Complete rebuild of my original IP by Cincinnati Diesel Injection
* New NOS vacuum modulator valve on the side of the IP
* New NOS Hummer open-plane intake
* New injectors
* New GM fuel return hoses
* New glow plugs from CUCV Electric
* New GP relay from CUCV Electric
* New NOS CDR valve
* New GP contoller card from CUCV Electric
* New NOS vacuum pump
* New AC-Delco fuel pump
* New rubber fuel hoses everywhere

Next to be done -

* New NOS 24 volt starter (in hand ready to install)
* DIY Rock Guards and hand holds (in hand ready to install)
* New Fluidampr harmonic balancer (in hand ready to install)
* New belts
* New NOS IR lights (in hand ready to install)

My truck has now been in my shop since June 2010, other than a quick road trip out to my farm last fall to make sure all systems were AOK.

I will continue to post photos as the work progresses.

Thanks for looking.
Where did you buy your harmonic balancer? part #'s?


O and, nopics
 
I started to lose that luving feeling about building my 85 M-1028 but after looking at your build my heart started pumping like a kid again.You should market a poster of your truck.After seeing them tires on your truck i know now what i want on my truck.:D
 

Sharecropper

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November 6, 2012 update -

NOS gear-reduction starter installed
DIY Rock Sliders and hand holds installed
New Fluidampr harmonic balancer installed
New belts installed
New 12v accessory plug installed
NOS antennae and hold-down installed

Still left to do -

Replace / re-pack front wheel bearings
Install new Spicer grease-able front axle U-joints

On a side note, I decided to remove the Balance Masters and instead, install Dyna Beads in the tubes to obtain perfect wheel / tire balance. The weight of each wheel and tire was at the maximun threshold for capacity of the Balance Masters, and I was still getting a few little bumps at slow speeds. The Dyna Beads are small perfectly-round ceramic beads that are installed into the tire or tube through the valve stem. As the tire / wheel begins to rotate, the ceramic beads are forced to the greatest inside diameter of the tire / tube centrifically and move around to automatically adjust the entire wheel assembly. Where the Balance Masters have an upper limit of how much they can balance, the Dyna Beads do not. The friendly folks at Dyna Beads calculated that my wheel / tire combination would require 14 ounces of beads to balance perfectly.

Hope this helps.
 

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Dunegoon

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I hope this isnt too dumb of a question but I have to ask. I love the 11.00 x 20's! I know that you had custom split rims made for your truck back in the day. My question is with all the 20 inch wheels available these days will they work with the NDT's? I remember seeing somewhere about using a military tire on a newer tubeless type wheel. Is that an option? Could they be ran tubeless? What backspacing are you running? Any comments would be appreciated.
 

Cleptomaniac

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Kinda got carried away......

Your truck looks amazing! I have some 9.00-20s I'm going to try on my 1009. Was wondering if they had to have tubes?
Also do you think 4" is enough lift for that?
 

Sharecropper

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Reply to Dunegoon - I built my 20" split rims in 1985 to run on a K30 SRW civi truck. Back then, 20" wheels on pick-ups were unheard of. Nowdays, it seems 20" wheels on Caprice pimp-mobiles are commonplace. There may be a source out there making a 20" wheel with the correct bolt pattern, however I have not researched it. I would think the 20" wheels made today would be more for style and decoration, not for strength. And definitely not the split-rim type. My wheel centers are a full 3/8" thick and milled from cold-rolled steel, milled on a Bridgeport milling machine and mig-welded directly to the Firestone split rim exactly in the middle of the rim (no back-spacing). The 11.00/20 NDT is a bias-ply tube-type tire, therefore require tubes and boots. An issue I have had to overcome is the correct balancing of these tires and wheels. Back in 1985 I used standard clamp-on lead wheel weights with OK results, however always had a little shimmy here and there. When I decided to run the wheels on my M1028, I at first purchased a set of HMMWV Balance Masters to run behinind each wheel, however these did not have the capacity to balance the substantial weight of the 11.00/20 NDT tire and wheel. I have since abandoned the Balance Masters and am running 14 ounces of Dyna Beads in each tube with excellent results. The Dyna Beads are perfectly round ceramic beads which, when subjected to centrifical force, move around the inside of the tire or tube and automatically balance the entire wheel assembly. The advantage of this is, if mud or snow gets caked in the wheel, the Dyna Beads automatically compensates for it and re-balances the wheel. My M1028 rides smoother than my wife's Honda.

Reply to Clepto - I don't believe you will be able to get 9.00/20's under a M1009 without major suspension modification. I raised my M1028 5", and still had to cut the fenders and re-position the axles. You should be able to run 9.00/16 with no problem.
 

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Dunegoon

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Thanks so much for the info! Your truck is killer. I have a M1008 with 37inch H1 wheels and tire combo. I really want a set of 11.00's on the next one.
 

Cleptomaniac

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Kinda got carried away......

Thanks for the info. The 900s are smaller and I already have a 4" lift. How far foreword did you move your axles?
I would not be totally against trimming some.

Thanks
Danny
 

Sharecropper

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Clepto - You will need to add Zero-Rates and move the front axle forward 1". Then trim the trailing edge of the front fender well all the way back to the inner fender, and fill the cavity with flexible body filler to keep out mud and water. Regarding the leading edge of the front fender, I removed this entirely just below the side marker lens. You can see this in the photo in post #114. You may or may not have to reposition your rear axle, based on how you raised your truck. I installed ORD's Shackle Flip Kit which, by its design, also rotated the rear axle slightly forward. Therefore to re-center the rear wheel in the rear wheel fender, I re-located the rear axle rearward 1-1/2".

Hope this helps.
 
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Dave Kay

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Gotta' say that I am just now getting to work my 1008 re-do and been following your thread getting lots of great ideas from it, to describe it in a word; inspirational!

Best wishes and best of luck in the New Year--- to all!
 

Disciple

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Got the rebuilt tilt steering column from Wayne Wiles in Ft. Wayne, Indiana GM Tilt Steering Column / Contact Us . It was completely rebuilt with new ignition switch & key, horn contact, and turn signal switch. He furnished the rebuilt column with all black levers and correct wiper control. It sure helps to get the wheel up out of my gut.
Ha! Love it. Why move the gut when you can just spend a few hundred bucks on moving the steering wheel?!? Sounds way easier than sit-ups.

Awesome truck! Great work!
 
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