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knuckle boots again..and again, and....

WillWagner

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Was rollin' around under the boat yesterday and found a drivers side boot starting to rip. I know, I know, it's been discussed about 40 times, but, I want to get the best possible set, don't wanna do it twice or three or four times. Where and who sells the mostest bestest fitting and lasting boots? Mine are rubber with a zipper now. Who knows how long they have been on. TIA guys...see another abbreviation! :shock:
 

clinto

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I can tell you who doesn't!!!!! :lol:
 

WillWagner

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That would be a start, 'cause I'm a cheap arse! I have a tendency to look for the least expensive thing...they are ALL the same ya know :roll:
 

nickd

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I picked up a set from Teds trucks, they were the one piece style. They have been on for over 6 months and no issues. They are a little more work to put on but if you repack your knuckles at the same time its worth it.
 

FSBruva

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OD Iron has a one year warranty on theirs... And they are the zipper type that doesn't require the complete disassembly of the steeing knuckle

Matt
 

Recovry4x4

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OD Iron is in the process of getting the real GI stuff with and without zippers. Do what you can to find GI stuff. From what I'm seeing, they are the better ones. If they have rivets, I'd avoid them.
 

jasonjc

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I have the Ted's truck's one pices and like them.(they are alot more work to put on but I whent thought the axle repacked and replaced the seals too.A full day maybe 2) or I'd give OD a shot with the MIL type.
 

cranetruck

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I started a separate thread on this a couple of weeks ago and didn't get a satisfactory answer, but how do you tell the quality, and place of origin?
Got one from Memphis some time ago and it smells and feels good, but isn't marked like the original. The original is marked "TOP" among other things. No zipper is water proof, so it should be sealed regardless of size or color.
 

WillWagner

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The ones on mine also have TOP on them. The zippers are covered by 2 flaps of rubber. Kenny, where are the rivits located, and are they visable from the outside?
 

Recovry4x4

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The rivets are in addition to the stitching holding the zipper on. Yes they are visible.
 

devilman96

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Hey guys... Kenny and I were discussing these again yesterday...

I am still working on the OEM boots, its not the fastest process in the world but it is moving along.

In the interim I have added the zipper less boots mentioned above to the store and should have a stock order of them in by the middle of next week. When they arrive I will get some good images of them uploaded for viewing. As with the other boots I carry I will warranty anything with in a year of purchase.
 

jwaller

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I just ordered a set of non zippers from OD to be installed very soon. I'll keep you all updated as to the quality and installation
 

houdel

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Here is a boot I go from Saturn last Fall (installed on 11/26/2006) with rivets. It is torn already, I first noticed it was torn a month or so ago, so it lasted me six months at best. It tore at both the top and bottom. Possibly very cold weather was a factor in its demise.

The second pic is a boot without rivets, also from Saturn. Don't even ask me why I took the first one off (without rivets) and replaced it with the boot with rivets. Just chalk it up to newbie inexperience, or a need for more experience changing boots!
 

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houdel

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jwaller said:
shouldn't your clamp be at the top and not on the front?
The inner clamp screw has to be installed at the top, otherwise the knuckle will wipe the clamp out of it's seat when turning. I can verify this from experience - three times in fact, until someone on this site explained why my inner clamp kept popping off. The TM illustration appears to show the inner clamp installed at the front of the knuckle, but the fine print in the instructions do state to install the inner clamp screw at the top. I don't think the outer clamp screw needs to be installed anywhere particular as it is protected by the boot shield, although the last time I replaced the boot (with the riveted zipper) I did get it as close to the top as I could. The steering arm was in the way of placing the clamp screw in the full top position.
 

MOGSTER

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The MILspec boots are the ones to get .If the one piece is to stiff to slide on then boil water,take pan off of the heat source and place boot in water for about 3 min.Take boot out of water and put directly on assy. This gives you about 2 minuts to put the boot on..But the miltary usaully did not cut coasts on boots or rubber seals.
 

GIJoeCzar

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5 Ton Boots

Firgured I'd mention it again as the topic has popped up again. I've got the 5 Ton boots, non-zipper type, for $20 each or two for $36. I am a believer in the USGI non-zipper boots; more work, but you get to see what's going on inside your steer axle. Go to the following for photos:

http://czarnik.net/joe/My_Stuff/Surplus Parts For Sale/

Thanks,

Joe Czarnik
(608) 567-8281
joe@armytruckparts.com
 
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