last word in CUCV stereo install

[kapnklug]

You'll get better sound if you run the 12V supply (always on) directly from the front battery (with a fuse, of course). Connecting to the junction block or the fuse panel causes a buzz from the alternator and the blower motor.

 

[1986Blazerk5]

I installed mine where the factory radio goes, looks good, ABC Warehouse installed it for a extra $35 for cutting the dash.

 

[chief1983]

I was under the impression that placing that load on one battery can cause an uneven drain that can shorten your battery's lifespan. Someone at one point mentioned a battery leveler though I think? Also, has anyone considered getting native 24V stereo equipment instead of 12V? I'm trying to see if I could wire up all the accessories in the truck as native 24V, including a stereo and speakers, a CB or the like, and a 24VDC-120VAC inverter. I've seen the inverters but not sure about the other stuff. I would think running native 24V stuff off both batteries via the existing 24V rails throughout the truck would be the most sound way to do it (pun intended).

 

[doghead]

chief, your confused. A CUCV has a separate alternator for each battery. The truck is primarily 12 volts. Just use a 12v radio, and use a 12v accessory tap on the fuse box. If you feel the need to go directly to the battery, use the front battery (only).

 

[chief1983]

Yeah I'm sure I am confused

But claiming it's primarily 12v does seem to conflict with at least some of what I've read already. I get that there are quite a few civilian 12v components in the truck, but I was under the impression that there was a dedicated 24v->12v converter powering this equipment, and that loading with with a significantly larger draw could be bad. I was also under the impression that putting too much load on one battery without equalizing the drain is likely to kill the batteries off sooner.

I also know that there was quite a few 24V military equipment on this truck feeding off of both batteries, such as the radio equipment, but that I no longer have installed. So in the place of the radio, I was thinking of installing a 24VDC->120VAC power inverter since I've already got the +/- terminals behind the passenger seat going to waste. As using any 24V equipment in the truck requires no voltage step down hardware and no uneven drains on the batteries, it seems to me like the way to go, where feasible.

I have had a hard time figuring out the actual power supply to the 12V equipment even after reading the schematics, so if someone could point me to the page I need to be looking at for that or explain the manner in which the various 12V needs of the CUCV are met I'd appreciate it, as it would clear up the confusion I've been having. The most I've heard of is the 12V terminals on the firewall, but I'm not sure _how_ those are fed. From the schematic, it also seemed that the fusebox under the dash receives 12V, I'm assuming from the same source as the rails one I believe is on the firewall?

 

[MakersTeleMark]

99% of your truck is 12v. And that's a good thing, because it's easy to work with. You have a 12v and 24v bus on the firewall. Most of the fusebox is 12v as well. No need for converters and the like, plenty of power options. Yes, you can tap in to 24v when needed, but for civi applications, it really isn't necessary, unless you want to run a 24v winch, which is also easy. I'd suggest doing a simple google search of this site and you will not only find drawings, but pictures of everything you need to know in this department.

try [searchterm] site:CUCV - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite in google. One specific picture comes to mind. Also the fusebox wiring is helpful too.

 

[chief1983]

Cool, guess my hardest part will be just getting the speakers installed and wired then. I still plan to run a 24V inverter since that's the only thing I can think of to put on that bus in the back right now, and it's gonna be a big inverter so I'd rather cut down on the current pulled by it.

 

[CycleJay]

Just curious,

Do any car stereo companies actually make a 24v car stereo?

I would not think so, since the military never spec'ed them into their vehicles.

Unless you pull one out of a civy european car, because as far as I know, vehicles in europe run 24v anyway.

But if and when I want to do the same thing in my 1985 M1009, I will just do it the simple way,
find preexisting ground connection under the dash for grounding, and use a fused line to the front battery for power,
like someone else in this thread already suggested. No inverters, no taps to the 24v power blocks/strips,etc..
and just have one or two speakers in the dash, so I can avoid running wires everywhere & keep things simple.

Good night,

CJ

 

[MakersTeleMark]

A 24v inverter wouldn't be hard to wire at all. Highly recommend a pure sine wave if you are running sensitive electronics. Have you thought of running solar and a third battery for dedicated electronics? That's what I use in my camper and it works great. I still don't see the need to run anything 24v. Although I have hooked up an impact wrench to the front NATO port that can come in handy.

 

[chief1983]

The inverter is a separate thing, unrelated to the stereo. Might need to power a household appliance or two out of the truck, or charge my laptop all weekend or something.

 

[sixb]

What's a D30?

My Utah title calls my M1008 a D30.

 

[MakersTeleMark]

Colorado calls my 1028 a d30 postal carrier. I just call it the muther cucker.

 

[wallew]

'D' is the GM designation for military (DOD) vehicles that were at one point civilian.

My M1009's are listed as D10's, and my M1028A2 is listed as a D30.

 

[peglegwillie]

Great idea. Can also mount CB

 

[The FLU farm]

Post up a picture of 90 degree dent in your right temple, the first time you go off-roading!

In 16 years, including much 'wheeling, I never managed to hit my head on the CB I mounted in that position. Radio went in the original spot in the dash.