-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Laundry list for the m1009
- Thread starter Gramps
- Start date
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Strap nuts I would heat and remove. Toss the old ones and get 4 new ones. 7/16 X 14 nuts. Less than $2. and no more aggravation. Spraying rust helps but heat is the silver bullet. I know it's a fuel tank but I weld closer than that at fuel tanks all the time on new trucks. No wet fuel and all is well. Be careful. Good Luck.
Wasn't able to get tank out at the farm, In order to get it home removed the rubber line going into the fuel pump and add a 3 ft second of hose. Tied a coolant bottle to the firewall and aimed a fire extinguisher at the whole assembly. thankfully no fires. still can't not get the fuel tank straps loose. Attacking them with a sawzall today. Just going to replace the entire sending unit to prevent further problems.
While taking care of some rust spots I discovered that the truck has been painted many times. At least 6, Its been Tri-color, OD green, tan, even red at some point, It has some bondo on the passenger side. Whoever did it was very good, Never even knew. I'll post some pictures of it tomorrow.
While taking care of some rust spots I discovered that the truck has been painted many times. At least 6, Its been Tri-color, OD green, tan, even red at some point, It has some bondo on the passenger side. Whoever did it was very good, Never even knew. I'll post some pictures of it tomorrow.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
You tried heat and couldn't get the nuts off the tank straps? Cherry RED gets it every time. Good Luck. The tank straps are inexpensive. It don't matter if the are made in China or Katmandu. If they fit and get tight they are the right ones. Good Luck.
Got them off last night, Three foot breaker bar snapped them right off. I Found the cause of my fuel issue, vent tube was completely open to the elements, hose rotted through. PO must have messed with the tank at some point, they didn't do a good job.
- 9,604
- 1,493
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
This place lists them might want to call and see if they still have them.View attachment 759168View attachment 759169View attachment 759170View attachment 759171 Some Pictures of sending unit and brakes. They were pretty badI want to replace the entire sending unit. The only units I can find are 3 hose. Is there a way I can rig it up to work or no.
http://www.flmv.net/FLMV-CUCV.htm
And here is a place in germany with them.
https://www.us-army-military-shop.de/product_info.php?language=en&products_id=4093
The second link is the same one I picked up from napa. I'll have to check but I think it might work.
- 9,604
- 1,493
- 113
- Location
- mid- michigan
LMC shows them also . The 2nd link in post #67 is the correct part per the parts TM.
LMC.
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/csb/full.aspx?Page=51
Was able to find four line sending unit. Fuel tank back is back in. Also since fuel pumps are so cheap I put a new one in as well. Truck still is not running. Cranking in driveway to prime engine cranked fine, After killing the batteries I backed it out of the driveway to have a buddy jump it. Was not getting anything coming out of injector lines so I think its the shutoff solenoid.
Keith_J
Well-known member
- 3,657
- 1,323
- 113
- Location
- Schertz TX
Take the cover off the injection pump, remove as much fuel as possible and replace with Diesel Mechanic in a Bottle. Move the metering valve back and forth. This valve must move freely.
Well I let it just sit for a little while, Got so fed up that I had to walk away. Yesterday I took off the top of the IP and poured in some Diesel Mechanic in a bottle like Kieth_J said. Primed the system and tried to fire it up. It sounds like it wants to go buts it just won't, It s There is a thump coming from the engine while cranking. Not exactly sure where its coming from, Hopefully I can get someone to crank for me while I locate it. Checked the Obvious things such as the starter and front accessories. At this point I think its a timing issue. Already have a new timing kit laying around, Tuesday I'm off work so hopefully I can tear the front of the engine off to finish it next weekend.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Is it getting fuel to the nozzles? Do the glow plugs work? Just pouring in mystery fluids will do no good if the fuel does not get delivered to the nozzles the correct time. I think it is the injection pump. It must get fuel delivery. I think the clunking is the starter getting tired of cranking and cranking. Good Luck. Report back. Take out the glow plugs and crank that thing with the nozzle lines open and see if that helps getting the air bled out.
Looks like I'm saying goodbye to the 6.2. I lucked into a 350 CSB 4 bolt main for fifty bucks. Going to tear it down and build it up. It needs a new carb and distributor but pretty much good to go otherwise. Putting a different cam in it and possibly different heads.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
That is not an upgrade. You can rebuild the 6.2 for less money. That also retains the value of the CUCV. Maybe you don't care. But I want you to consider that option. Have a Great Day. 1984-1986 gas engine Blazers are not worth much these days. Just keep that in mind. The diesel is what makes it special. Have a Great Day. Not my truck.
The engine I found was junk, Oil starvation killed it. I'll look into rebuilding the 6.2 more but I can't see a way it would be cheaper than a small block. I like the motor it has but it still isn't running and hasn't been for over two months. I could have a new engine in it less than a month from now running strong. The value of the truck means nothing to me, It's not going to get sold, nor is it a show truck.
Edit: If I sound condescending above that was not my intention.
Edit: If I sound condescending above that was not my intention.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
I will sell you a good running long block 6.2 that came out of a HMMWV for less than rebuilding a 350 from start to finish. 8 hours east and 8 hours west. You could have it in a running in 2 weeks or less if you were energetic enough. I understand.
- 4,290
- 1,776
- 113
- Location
- Edmond, Oklahoma
Sure the 350 will work, but the 6.2 is it’s soul.
I pulled the engine over the weekend. Glad I did, Lots of little things that need taken care of, Plenty of leaking lines and bad mounts. Started to pull engine apart out. Removed the Injection pump and the drive pulley on the front easily spins and clicks. Not sure if that is correct, It surprised me was expecting it to be difficult to turn if not impossible. Looking around to find someone who can test it, not many shops that will even touch the truck let alone an injection pump.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
The injection pump is an easy inexpensive swap. I am ready for the fall out but I used Diesel Care and it cost less than $350. from door to engine. I changed many and have had few to no problems. There are a lot of CUCV's out there running that I used Diesel Care injection pumps on. Do as you wish. Not worth the guess work. A new/rebuilt injection pump can fix a lot of ill's on a poor running CUCV and any diesel as far as that goes. I put many on 6.9 and 7.3 Fords also. Good Luck. Have a Great holiday weekend.