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LDS VS LDT and the real differences

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
$428.57 a pop, posted from phone and unhappy face was easiest way to block my address on the quote but was relevant too. wouldn't mind a set if they really are good for 50 odd cfm on a ldt, i don't remember the post number in this thread but someone reported dropping a couple hundred degrees off the egt and i like that, the only thing that passes for a hill around here is the big mississippi river bridge and i drop to almost 40 mph and get up to just about 1100 degrees/10# and haven't added any fuel yet or installed the 395s, with those temps i don't see being able to add any fuel without getting more air into it especially with the taller gearing the 395s will present
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
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Finished disassembly of the LDS pump. Now I'm cleaning up the Hydraulic Head. It was very rusty as it had been laying in a wooden crate on a dirt floor barn for years. It took every thing off except the gear and retainer and thoroughly sandblasted it. I believe once I put it back together it will still run OK. We will see.
Next up is the LDT pump and Hydraulic Head.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I found out something today. The stamped metal housing for the gear on the bottom of the Hydraulic Head is not needed to run the unit. It is just there to hold the gear and shaft in place until it is installed into the pump housing. I also installed all the little side plugs and the 12 point bolt which holds in the pressure relief valve and spring.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
I found out something today. The stamped metal housing for the gear on the bottom of the Hydraulic Head is not needed to run the unit. It is just there to hold the gear and shaft in place until it is installed into the pump housing. I also installed all the little side plugs and the 12 point bolt which holds in the pressure relief valve and spring.
Anxious to see governor assembly
 

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
doing about 50 maybe 52 when i hit the bottom of the bridge (this deuce is a good bit peppier then the last one i drove with a whistler turbo, that turd didn't wanna make it to 50 with all fresh filters) i've had it to 55 and it didn't seem tapped out but didn't wanna push my luck as thats a big old lump of iron built by the lowest bidder and im not ready to window the block and surf my own oil slick into the nearest ditch just yet

Winfred when you start to climb the grade are you at or close to 2500/2600 rpm?
i think its a D as its not the whistler, was thinking about a better air filter assy but don't think the stocker would be that horrible at stock power, doesn't look that bad, kinda mused about if a hx35 holset would be a upgrade as one is providing a home for spiders in my building after i went ball bearing on my mildly evil 12v dodge

Also, which turbo? "D" or a larger 5 ton spec turbo will get you more air = cooler, and maybe a 5 ton air cleaner. Try running with no filter and see if it helps.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
doing about 50 maybe 52 when i hit the bottom of the bridge (this deuce is a good bit peppier then the last one i drove with a whistler turbo, that turd didn't wanna make it to 50 with all fresh filters) i've had it to 55 and it didn't seem tapped out but didn't wanna push my luck as thats a big old lump of iron built by the lowest bidder and im not ready to window the block and surf my own oil slick into the nearest ditch just yet



i think its a D as its not the whistler, was thinking about a better air filter assy but don't think the stocker would be that horrible at stock power, doesn't look that bad, kinda mused about if a hx35 holset would be a upgrade as one is providing a home for spiders in my building after i went ball bearing on my mildly evil 12v dodge
Yes the "Holset" HX35 would be an improvement. In fact a big improvement ! I would install a "pyrometer" first before you changed the "Turbo" though. Don't want to melt your pistons !
 

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
how close is the D mounting pad/flange to the t3 on the holset? at the risk of polluting the lds thread with off topic. i noticed the stock turbo is slow to spool up and quick to spool down and wondered how inefficient it is being not really for power and more smoke reduction, if the D has a compatible flange ill slap that 35 on just for fun. i also have a he351vgt that could be amusing, they close down enough to provide a e-brake function which i suspect would only work better with another 100 odd cubic inches of engine pumping through it, i think the range is 9-21cm, run the rack with a linear actuator and a couple pressure switches to trip preset positions on the actuator, but the 351 has a mutant sized t3/4 flange and unusual bolt configuration

Yes the "Holset" HX35 would be an improvement. In fact a big improvement ! I would install a "pyrometer" first before you changed the "Turbo" though. Don't want to melt your pistons !
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
752
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Yes the "Holset" HX35 would be an improvement. In fact a big improvement ! I would install a "pyrometer" first before you changed the "Turbo" though. Don't want to melt your pistons !
Putting more air in the motor will only cool it off. You only need a pyro when you add fuel.

















Bazinga!
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,941
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Putting more air in the motor will only cool it off. You only need a pyro when you add fuel.

















Bazinga!
That's the whole reason for adding a Turbo, increasing the fuel. You can increase fuel but without the air to burn your just wasting fuel. So you add a Turbo and increase the fuel but you need the "pyrometer" to check the exhaust to make sure you haven't gone to far. I just assumed you knew that.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
I have always wondered how much boost the ldt could handle. It's already in the 22:1 Ish range.

More boost = more compression.

With supposedly weak rods and failure prone head gaskets it would be interesting to see.

Which would lead to the next question. Are the head gaskets a poor design/weak material that could be solved with a copper gasket with fire rings? Or do the heads flex so much under load that regardless of how good the gaskets are it's going to fail anyways?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
752
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Its rumored there is a high speed video showing the heads lifting while a multifuel is running. I spent about 6hrs looking for it one day and came up empty. I wish the guy I heard it from would post a link.
 

welldigger

Active member
2,602
15
38
Location
Benton LA
Well if someone has a sacrificial lamb they could easily build a test mule. Just add a better/bigger turbo along with a waste gate and manual boost controller. I'd be curious if we could even make it to 30 psi of boost without something giving.

If I remember correctly, those who put boost gauges on their rig get about 15 psi before egts get too high. Obviously more air would cool that down but at what point are we causing another problem.

I would think porting and polishing the heads would do more good than more boost. At least then your increasing airflow without adding much more stress to anything.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
 
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