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LDT-465 oil pump plumbing - question - switch over from 5ton configuration

cattlerepairman

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Looking at TM9-2320-361-24-1, work package 0036 00-3/4, illustration, item 16 (a bracket that also appears to close off an unused oil port).

This appears to be a bracket that also closes off the third suction port of the oil pump that is NOT being used in the LDT, but is used in the LDS. Can someone confirm this? I also checked TM9-2815-210-34-2-2, pages 5-52 and 5-53, but the info there does not answer my question either.

I am re-configuring the LDS im assembling for use in a deuce and have the two Deuce pipes (the short one with the "shower head" that goes into the front (deep) sump, the long one that runs from the oil pump outwards and bends towards the back, runs along the side and then back into the shallow sump. I do not have that bracket (16), so I was left with an open port that was not there in 5ton configuration and thought WTF???


oil plumbing overview.jpgoil pump fix.jpg



The LDS uses a short, third, pipe that is curved and has a wire mesh at the end. It is not being used in the Deuce, correct?

I cut the flange off one of the unused LDS oil pipes and welded a blank plate to it, using it to close off the unused oil port on the oil pump (see "my fix" in the pic). I just want to know if that is correct, before I button it up. I plan to use two of the pipe clamps to vibration-protect the two LDT oil pipes.

It is getting wintery cold here and I need to get that engine buttoned up over the next days that I am off...
 
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rustystud

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View attachment Scan0010.pdfView attachment Scan0011.pdfView attachment Scan0012.pdf OK, here is what I've found.
The LDS uses a long "scavenge" outlet tube that goes to the back of the engine. The LDT uses nothing. There is a plate ( Z ) that holds the pickup tube (pressure inlet) that has a hole in it to allow oil out (scavenge out). The LDS uses a short little tube for the "scavenge" inlet, while the LDT uses a long tube ( Q ) for the "scavenge" inlet. So don't block off this oil hole.
 

cattlerepairman

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Ok, So I will modify my fix. I can use the washer that I welded onto the pipe flange to mimic the smaller hole; I will just remove the nut and bolt setup that closes off the hole in the washer.

Thanks, rusty, for the clarification and the wonderfully clear schematics!! I had interpreted the graphic in the 361 manual as being a solid plate.
 
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Welshp30

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Ok so I am very confused by all of this. I am wanting to swap in a 5 ton motor what exactly needs to be done besides just rotate the oil pan?
 

cattlerepairman

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Ok so I am very confused by all of this. I am wanting to swap in a 5 ton motor what exactly needs to be done besides just rotate the oil pan?
Off the top of my head:

Rotate oil pan
Switch oil pickup from LDT into LDS to fit rotated oil pan (it's very simple; just switch the pickup tubes over...easy when you see it; I had an issue with a pickup tube I did not understand; don't block off any oil pump openings is the lesson learned)
Move dipstick
Move starter
Switch air intake to fit turbo(depends; you'll see)
Remove 5 ton flywheel/clutch and replace with LDT flywheel/clutch
Switch bellhousing adapter from LDT to LDS
Switch front motor mounts from LDT to LDS

I might have forgotten something but that is pretty much it.
You want to do stuff such as replacing the rear main seal and making sure the seal carrier has the drain holes drilled and other maintenance items (coolant hoses, seals) while you have that donor LDS out and accessible.

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk
 
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Welshp30

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On the way home with a LDS we will see how it goes.
Anyone have details on the dipstick move?

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 
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