Leave duals or go Singles

[red]

To completely fill the void would require custom machined lug nuts per each stud, that are specific to that stud and wheel in only that position. Any time the wheel is dismounted from the hub it would have to go on in exactly the same location and orientation, same with each specialized lug nut. Can't be too long because then the wheel is not fully seated to the hub.

Not economical or practical by any means, and since the industry builds the studs to handle the weight already there is no need.

Mine broke 250 miles into a 270 mile drive. New studs, hadn't even touched the brakes in 130 miles when they broke.

 

[tobyS]

The sleeve (pictured) fits around the stud snug and fills to the diameter of the hole. It is just shorter than the metal is thick. The picture was for my Henderson's, steel, with hub centered and I think is different than your al hole (1" vs 1 1/8") , but DOM tube can be had in about any size. Then you just saw off a piece (x 40 or 60) and don't machine anything.

It seems a hard braking would put the most rotating force on the wheel/drum joint, which is why I mentioned it, not that that was the cause of your breakage. I think we would agree that coming to a fast stop and having all or most or even many break off could be a REAL problem.

 

[red]

Could present a chisel effect on the hub flange/wheel stud inner portion, and the lug nut with those spacers being just a hair too short. As the wheel studs flex the sleeve (lets say it's 1/2 a mm short of the correct length) would make contact with those surfaces, putting alot the load into a smaller contact location. It's not meant for that load and will cause one of those 3 things to fail (sheer the wheel stud, back off/damage the lug nut, or eventual failure of the hub mating surface).

Again though, it's not necessary. Commercial applications run heavier loads than most people here with these trucks and don't have regular failures from weight/stopping/etc. Same diameter wheel studs on many of them.

 

[hbrazell0003]

So im about to be a first time M35 owner. I've been wanting one for years and i luckily am getting handed one for next to nothing. It does need some TLC but i am very interested in removing the old duals and installing 395 singles. I will not be loading it down or working it to death. This is just a fun project truck where we can go offroad and mess around. Is there any reason why i shouldn't just spend the extra money and buy adapters and install the 395 on mrap wheels? It seems the old rims with the split lock rim is to small and dangerous if not handled properly. Again my knowledge of these trucks is very limited but im ready to learn!

 

[tobyS]

Hbrazell,The 395 is a large tire. I just put them all the way around on my 5 ton dump truck. They add a lot of rotating, un-sprung weight to a deuce.

I like them on a deuce but they don't leave much space between the rears. My plan was to make an A3 into a 4x4, so I bought 5, but the dump truck took priority.

I like the 395 on a 4x4 deuce but I prefer the 11.00 duals on the rear of the 6x6 and the 365/80R20 on the front on A3 rims (on the M35). I would do that to my M35A3 but the cost of another tire project is not in my budget.

 

[98G]

So im about to be a first time M35 owner. I've been wanting one for years and i luckily am getting handed one for next to nothing. It does need some TLC but i am very interested in removing the old duals and installing 395 singles. I will not be loading it down or working it to death. This is just a fun project truck where we can go offroad and mess around. Is there any reason why i shouldn't just spend the extra money and buy adapters and install the 395 on mrap wheels? It seems the old rims with the split lock rim is to small and dangerous if not handled properly. Again my knowledge of these trucks is very limited but im ready to learn!

I would do exactly that....

 

[hbrazell0003]

I would do exactly that....

I should just bite the bullet and spring for adapters, mrap wheels ans 395s? What about 365 vs 395?

 

[98G]

I should just bite the bullet and spring for adapters, mrap wheels ans 395s? What about 365 vs 395?

395s are more plentiful, easier to source, and cheaper.

They also look better. Makes it an easy decision.

365's are for when you want dualled 11.00r20's on the back, and super singles on the front. Same (more or less) diameter .

Expect to pay $350ish for NOS 395s on aluminum MRAP rims, $240 or so in hardware, and around $100 each for adapter plates.

Plan all day for you and a buddy to flip the hubs, service the bearings and diffs, and swap out the wheels and tires.

 

[tobyS]

Wow....that's almost $700 apiece-ish.

Don't forget the spare.

 

[98G]

Wow....that's almost $700 apiece-ish.

Don't forget the spare.

I don't follow your math.

The $240 is for all the hardware for the entire set.

And this isn't a for sale ad - I don't have any of it for sale. This is what to expect to pay, reasonable retail. (Not in PA)

 

[tobyS]

My mistake. Added hardware for each wheel when apparently it's about $40 each. So it's more like $490-ish each.

I don't have any for sale either (395's)...used them and had to squeeze penny's to buy 2 more for the dump truck.

 

[winfred]

don't forget how much an assembled mrap/395 weighs to move them around, my 6 on the ground are steel and with adapters (spare is aluminum), hardware and a 35# beadlock are 470# a pop. aluminum mraps are 70 odd pounds less, runflat inserts are 50-60 more then just a beadlock, 9x20s on the split rims are around 270# so you loose a little weight on the rear but add 3-400# to the front, i supposed you could go no beadlock and aluminum for 360ish pound a wheel. yes id totally do it again the way it drives (but if you are lucky like me and someone slipped a detroit locker in the front diff you won't be able to steer it without injuring yourself unless you install lockout hubs, popped something avoiding a street sign/building and shoulder hurt for about 4 months after the first test drive )

So im about to be a first time M35 owner. I've been wanting one for years and i luckily am getting handed one for next to nothing. It does need some TLC but i am very interested in removing the old duals and installing 395 singles. I will not be loading it down or working it to death. This is just a fun project truck where we can go offroad and mess around. Is there any reason why i shouldn't just spend the extra money and buy adapters and install the 395 on mrap wheels? It seems the old rims with the split lock rim is to small and dangerous if not handled properly. Again my knowledge of these trucks is very limited but im ready to learn!

 

[98G]

That weight doesn't sound right for the 9.00R20.

That, or I'm a monster. I pick them up pretty easily. I suspect that it's 270lbs per pair of them maybe.

Edit -

 

[winfred]

ahh i found crap info, seemed plausible though. i did scale the parts when i assembled my first 395 so 470 is fairly accurate for my combo of a steel rim, hutchinson beadlock, the bolts/washers/nuts, adapter plate and 100% XZL

That weight doesn't sound right for the 9.00R20.

That, or I'm a monster. I pick them up pretty easily. I suspect that it's 270lbs per pair of them maybe.

Edit -

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