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Lift kit for M1009

peglegwillie

Member
78
0
6
Location
Knoxville Tennseess
New tank

Great ideas again I’m bout to agree lift kits are not great for articulation stiff arches. still checking out for best that will work for me. Fixed n to sand blast while tank is out using silicone media then rustoleum start lift after. Cleaning out old 27 gal tank good condition be for sale plus set 10 bolt axles . Got a 31 gal, sending unit, still have ton axles waiting to go on.
 
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Bighorn

New member
445
8
0
Location
N/A
Great ideas again I’m bout to agree lift kits are not great for articulation stiff arches. still checking out for best that will work for me. Fixed n to sand blast while tank is out using silicone media then rustoleum start lift after. Cleaning out old 27 gal tank good condition be for sale plus set 10 bolt axles . Got a 31 gal, sending unit, still have ton axles waiting to go on.
Swapped out my 10 bolts as well.
Used the 12 bolt rear and 44 front from my 76 k5.
Built with 3.73s Yukon axles and lockers.
These rigs are fun to build.
Main reason i bought an m1009, which pisses the local ss guys off, was because it is a rust free, nearly new, 86 K5 Blazer.
Un-bastardized so i can be the one to bastardize it.
 

nathus

Member
94
13
8
Location
Waterloo/ BELGIUM
Hi Guys,
Time to give a small feedback.
Like I told it before, I tried to do a mix of diffrent advises I had from all of you.
I've made my driveshaft 3 cm longer and put my T-case 1.5 cm lower. The result is pretty good, I can't feel any vibrations :)

The only issue I still have is the steering. There is A LOT of play in it and it's not nice to drive it like that.
I checked all the rods, they are all OK. The brackets of the steering are not cracked and look fine also. I don't know where to look now...

I contacted the guy in the US who sold me the lift kit and he tells me to order un dual steering stabilizer ; but I'm not so convinced by the explanation.
What do you guys think about ?
 

stevenbeven

Member
44
1
6
Location
Nashville, TN
I’m in newbie so don’t take my advice as gospel but I just bought a M1028 and have steering issues myself that working through. I hear the dual stabilizer can help but is generally thought of as a Band-Aid on other problems.

The first alignment shop I took it to said the tie rod ends and drag linkage was all good to go. But said it needed a new steering box – That didn’t fix the problem. After getting it on a lift and having someone turn the wheel back-and-forth with it off I could see a lot of play all around from drag link to tie rod ends, king pin spacer. I’ve decided to go the route of crossover steering sense I’m replacing most of these components, also will rebuild the upper king pins - looks pretty easy. 🤞.

I also hear that even if you’ve gotten a new steering gear from a typical auto parts store that their refurbished quality assurance settings are still pretty loose compared to what factory knew would be.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Jake59

Active member
170
102
43
Location
Kaggevinne, Flanders, belgium
Surely somebody in Europe can re-arch leaf springs, if the problem is that they're tired.

6years late in reading this... apology, but can't read it all!

Regret to say that re-arching leaf springs is definitely a skill which is not available anywhere in Europe... when it comes to anything even touching on customizing or upgrading vehicles, Europe is really not the place to be... if anywhere in Europe, than the UK maybe, just maybe, offer some posibilities... but they are no longer in the EU (smart decision by the way).

Jake
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
I want to convert my M1008 to a 1/2 ton while maintaining height. I can't find a shop that will re-arch springs. I'll need to take 7 leafs out which causes significant height loss. Maybe it can't be done? My engineering background says this practice shouldn't be possible. Guess I'll use blocks when I get around to it.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
Dearching the springs won't make it a 1/2-ton. But once you have swapped in 1/2-ton axles and springs you should be 95% there.

I'd guess that 1" to 1-1/2" lift springs would be about right, and wouldn't even try regular 1/2-ton springs first.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
The 1/2 ton springs are the wrong length. A 1/2 ton has 3 leaves, the K30 has 10. I think I'm going to remove leaves and then use 2" lift blocks.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,328
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I figured you'd move the spring hangers. Changing to a 1/2-ton frame would be more work than I'd care for.

And on the leftover set of springs for an M1009 I have there's definitely more than three three leaves. How many it is I don't remember.

Either way, it sounds like you don't really want to convert it to a 1/2-ton, but soften the suspension instead. If so I'd go with air springs.
 

87cr250r

Well-known member
1,267
1,988
113
Location
Rodeo, Ca
On a closer look of the left pic I see a third crack. I would also condemn that pre-cup as that could allow a large piece to break away and damage the cylinder.
 
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