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Lift/tires M1031.

albersondh

Member
78
3
8
Location
MI Detroit
I would like to lift and fit, somewhere between a 37-40" tire on a 1031. Looks like the box is going to get in the way. Easy enough to cut out some material and make mini tubs, but I would like to keep the floor as flat and big as possible. I would do minimal lift to get the tires to fit, so not going to do a 10" lift just to fit a 37" tire, to avoid triming ect (Im a COG whore)..... Anybody got a lifted 1031 running a 37+ tire? Got pics?
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
207
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin

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Last edited:

maynard83

Member
295
2
18
Location
OC, California
4 inch lift is about as high as you can go without having to modify the driveshaft and is plenty high. I am 6' 2" and struggle to get in, will probably add a nerf bar.
The wheels are 37" Hummer H1 12-bolt's, also had to add custom made 1" spacers in the rear & 2 " spacers up front. As you can see by the photo the only cut that was needed was to the rear part of the front wheel well.
Good luck.
 

albersondh

Member
78
3
8
Location
MI Detroit
Man that is sharp!! I think the box on a 1031 is flat, without the cut out or wheel well arc like the 1010 has, but Im pretty sure the flat lower part of the box on the 1031 is at least as high as the 1010 lower box. I know the 1031 box drops at the bottom, just behind the rear of the tire. Either way thanks for the pic and link, doesnt look like anything I cant make work without butchering it to death.
 

jimmy-90

New member
344
4
0
Location
Haymarket Va.
You shouldn't have to cut anything out of the back of your M1031. It would be close but you might be able to fit 37's under the back with no lift at all or cutting. The front fenders are a way different story though. Also a 1031 has tons more room in the back for bigger tires than an M1010 does.
 
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prairie

New member
84
0
0
Location
Bloomfield, Nebraska
Do a 1" body lift with new body mounts, and 1" zero rates for 2" of easy and cheap lift. Also use the zero rate to move the front axle forward 1.5"
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/Zero Rates.htm , http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/oneinchlift.htm , and http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/bodymounts.htm
Then add a a 2 1/2" shackle flip in the rear, with 3" lift springs in the front. http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/shacklekit.htm and http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/TuffCountry.htm
The above will give you 4 1/2" of lift, that with some trimming in the front, should fit 37" tires.
If you don't want to trim as much do a 4" shackle flip and 4" front lift springs instead for a total of 6 1/2" lift.
Better yet call ORD and have them help you put together a lift kit to add to the body lift and easy inch.
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/3inchliftsystem.htm or http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/4inchliftsystem.htm
Trimming done properly can look good, and in my opinion, many times better than stock.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
The biggest thing is not really the lift height. It's getting the axle away from the firewall. You will need to trim regardless but the zero rate will really help since one inch forward means two inches bigger tire. Don't forget that stock push/pull steering combined with a zero rate is not a good idea at all.
 

prairie

New member
84
0
0
Location
Bloomfield, Nebraska
The biggest thing is not really the lift height. It's getting the axle away from the firewall. You will need to trim regardless but the zero rate will really help since one inch forward means two inches bigger tire. Don't forget that stock push/pull steering combined with a zero rate is not a good idea at all.
I have the axle pushed one inch forward on my M1008, and steering is not a problem. for a mainly street rig, 1 1/2" forward may not be a problem, but would most likely not be ideal for offroad use. With 1 1/2" forward, crossover steering may be best.
 
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