Lifting my m1009 with m1008 axles

[jeepjseries]

Just curious as to the options I have with this setup. I see others have done it with stock axles but didn't see anything on 1 tons. Worries are the 208 transfer case, don't wanna pull the rear drive shaft out too far. Need a few inches to properly clear 36 or 37's. I have 35's on the current configuration due to the axles I guess. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[Cucvnut]

What are you asking?

 

[jeepjseries]

What are you asking?

For ideas as far as lifting my m1009....

 

[Cucvnut]

ok so you have the 60 and 14 bolt allready in the truck ?

 

[jeepjseries]

Yes

 

[Cucvnut]

why are you concerned about the rear drive shaft and the T case. I have a 5 inch lift on my truck and I run 37's

 

[jeepjseries]

why are you concerned about the rear drive shaft and the T case. I have a 5 inch lift on my truck and I run 37's

Wasn't sure how far the 208 lets the drive shaft travel in and out. Not positive but think I read somewhere that it limited you amount of lift unless you deleted the slip yoke.

 

[Cucvnut]

No that's is not true. If you lift your truck you can use your stock rear drive shaft.

 

[Darky]

Even with the shorter wheelbase of the Blazer? I know a lot of full size trucks can take fairly large lifts with stock rear shafts, but as the wheelbase shortens, I know the amount of slack afforded by the rear drive shaft changes. For example, my Cherokee (similar wheelbase to the Blazer) required a new shaft out back at 5.5" of lift, but my 73 Ford truck could likely take the same amount of lift no problem.

I'm interested in the answer as well as I have a sale pending with my Cherokee and will likely be purchasing an M1009 with plans for about a 4" lift and HMMWV wheels/tires.

 

[Dukeboy]

You're going to have to measure. If the 14bolt is already installed you should notice the "snout" of the Dif is longer than the 10-bolt, reducing the distance needed for the driveshaft. depending what perches you welded on the tubes you will have gained an inch or so of lift from just swapping axles. were you planing on running a dual sized u-joint? I think if I remember right your driveshaft will have a 1310 joint on it from before and your 14bolt may have a 1350, I swapped all my yokes to 1410 so I can't remember what I started with. If you're sizing your lift based on reusing your driveshaft and are worried about it pulling out under full droop (not sure what type of wheeling you have planned) I don't have an answer for you, I went ahead and swapped in a NP205 (junkyard $100) and had shafts made for it instead. I think you're going to have to size your lift based on clearing the tires of your choice and take care of the driveshaft towards the end when you can measure the distance at the two extremes (full stuff, full droop). and see if thats within the range of your slip yoke. Hope some of this helped.

 

[jeepjseries]

Thanks for the help guys. I'm thinking the previous owner just swapped out the rear u joint. I didn't do this axle swap came that way, probably the main reason I asked you guys. Kinda wish I would have done it my self at least I would have a better understanding. My reason for the lift question is I need new tires and with the 4.56 gears 36 at least would be a good idea in my eyes. May just end up trimming the fenders, running bald 35's now.

 

[jeepjseries]

Well I now understand where the extra height came from, both axles springs are mounted on top of the axle. If the 10 bolts are like my old full size jeep front was mounted underneath.

 

[Dukeboy]

nope, the 10bolts were below the springs as well. The distance between the axle centerline and bottom of the spring did increase due to larger axle tubes and taller perches. this will result in a small amount of lift.