Lister/Onan LPW2/DN2M

[DepotGuy71]

Hello All,

I recently purchased a seized DN2M diesel engine from Govt Liquidation. After a proper E&I I found that I will need one connecting rod and 2 Pistons. Does anyone here have a good source for parts for these machines? I have found a few places on the web, but they all seem to be very expensive.

The Lister LPW2 Parts #'s are as follows. The part number for the pistons I need is 750-41610/050, and connecting rod 750-10152

I also know that the Cage Code for the DN2M points to Cummins, however I was not able to get any part info from them

Any help, comments, or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks much

Neal

 

[DieselAddict]

Hi Neal,

I've looked around and in general the best prices I've found on parts has been on ebay. Even so they are still expensive.

I'm glad I've not had to order many engine parts.

 

[Guyfang]

Neal,

I assume what you want is depicted in TM 9-2815-252-24P, Figure 15, Items 1 & 5.

Item #1, (connecting rod) is part number 186-6078, NSN: 2815-01-357-5448 Price to the military was $234.00
Item # 2, What size do you want? There is a standard, and three over size pistons. The standard size was NSN: 2815-01-357-8803. Cost was $222.00 I wont bother to list anything more, until I know what size you want.

Contact info for:
Cummins

1400 73RD AVE NE

MINNEAPOLIS

55432-3702

763-574-5766

 

[DepotGuy71]

Neal,

I assume what you want is depicted in TM 9-2815-252-24P, Figure 15, Items 1 & 5.

Item #1, (connecting rod) is part number 186-6078, NSN: 2815-01-357-5448 Price to the military was $234.00
Item # 2, What size do you want? There is a standard, and three over size pistons. The standard size was NSN: 2815-01-357-8803. Cost was $222.00 I wont bother to list anything more, until I know what size you want.

Contact info for:
Cummins

1400 73RD AVE NE

MINNEAPOLIS

55432-3702

763-574-5766

You are correct Sir. It is indeed the Fig/Item numbers that you referenced. However, how do I know what size I have? The diameter of the Piston I have measures approximate 3 5/16" or 84.2 mm, and it's length measures 2 11/16" or 68.26 mm. I am not sure if I am measuring correctly. I understand the sizes are 25, 50, 75, and 100 mm. A friend told me that I should go up a size and have it bored out.

Thank you for your input.

Neal

 

[lindsey97]

www.kraftpower.com

I have been buying used mep-802a parts from SS member Durhamgoat. He has a couple 802's that are parts machines. Send him a pm.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
ONAN DN2M-1 engine, also known as LPW2 (DN4M-1 and LPW4 is the MEP-803A engine, same but 4 cylinders)

NSN 2815-01-357-5448 part# 186-6078 connecting rod
NSN 2815-01-357-8803 part# 186-6687 piston, internal com

LISTER PETTER LPW DIESEL ENGINE STANDARD PISTON ASSEMBLY 750-41610
LISTER PETTER LPW DIESEL ENGINE +0.25mm OVERSIZE PISTON ASSEMBLY 750-41610/025
you can find them from international sellers

 

[JRM]

Has anyone ever checked a local cummins parts house since they stock onan stuff now?

 

[Guyfang]

You are correct Sir. It is indeed the Fig/Item numbers that you referenced. However, how do I know what size I have? The diameter of the Piston I have measures approximate 3 5/16" or 84.2 mm, and it's length measures 2 11/16" or 68.26 mm. I am not sure if I am measuring correctly. I understand the sizes are 25, 50, 75, and 100 mm. A friend told me that I should go up a size and have it bored out.Thank you for your input.
Neal

Morning Neal!

And a cold one it is here, in sunny germany.
First, you need to tell us if the cylinder is damaged. If it's not damaged, why do you need a piston? Did someone loot it?
If the cylinder is damaged, and you need a piston, then did the piston do the damage? Good reason to need a piston.
If you are going to bore out one cylinder, you have to do the other. I suppose you could get away without doing the second jug, but it makes absolutely no sense. Most of the work is done when you do just one jug, and the couple hours more, to do the second one is not going to matter in your life. And you can feel good about the engine being tip, top.

Are you going to do the work? If so, you need an exact measurement of the diameter, aprox is not going to make it. If you need help measuring, get it. I am dyslexic. I measure EVERYTHING 4-5 times, then get someone else to do it again. If you give the work to someone else, I assume, (hope) that person can measure right. Once you know the exact diameter, then you can decide on if you need to bore it bigger, and how big that would be. After all, the diameter of the cylinder, dictates the size of the piston. Have you pulled the second piston?

Post #7, from JRM is a good idea also. And you do not have to buy there, but you can get smart about a lot of stuff, by asking the right questions. Its always better to know, then not know. If you are going to do this yourself, and haven't ever done it before, seek guidance. Find a good buddy who will help, not do it all himself, so you can learn. Good buddies sometimes work for beer. Not a bad deal! Just save the beer till your done!

If the cylinder doesn't have to be bored out, post #5, from lindsey97, is a good way to maybe get started.

 

[DepotGuy71]

Morning Neal!

And a cold one it is here, in sunny germany.
First, you need to tell us if the cylinder is damaged. If it's not damaged, why do you need a piston? Did someone loot it?
If the cylinder is damaged, and you need a piston, then did the piston do the damage? Good reason to need a piston.
If you are going to bore out one cylinder, you have to do the other. I suppose you could get away without doing the second jug, but it makes absolutely no sense. Most of the work is done when you do just one jug, and the couple hours more, to do the second one is not going to matter in your life. And you can feel good about the engine being tip, top.

Are you going to do the work? If so, you need an exact measurement of the diameter, aprox is not going to make it. If you need help measuring, get it. I am dyslexic. I measure EVERYTHING 4-5 times, then get someone else to do it again. If you give the work to someone else, I assume, (hope) that person can measure right. Once you know the exact diameter, then you can decide on if you need to bore it bigger, and how big that would be. After all, the diameter of the cylinder, dictates the size of the piston. Have you pulled the second piston?

Post #7, from JRM is a good idea also. And you do not have to buy there, but you can get smart about a lot of stuff, by asking the right questions. Its always better to know, then not know. If you are going to do this yourself, and haven't ever done it before, seek guidance. Find a good buddy who will help, not do it all himself, so you can learn. Good buddies sometimes work for beer. Not a bad deal! Just save the beer till your done!

If the cylinder doesn't have to be bored out, post #5, from lindsey97, is a good way to maybe get started.

Good Morning GuyFang..(or Afternoon in Germany),

The engine I bought was seized upon purchase, One Connecting rod was broken and the piston attached to it was cracked. The other piston was very difficult to remove...so it got damaged upon removal. I don't really want to get the cylinder bored out if I don't have to but again I am not sure what size Pistons I have now as far as a metric measurement.

Can you explain how to measure my current piston? The parts book says they are either .25, .50, .75, or 1.0 mm. But I don't know what that measurement applies to.

Neal

 

[csheath]

Not sure about these but in the automotive world the tops of the pistons would be stamped std or +xx. Clean the carbon off and see if it has any markings.

That said I don't think it had that much damage without scoring the cylinders. I believe you are looking at having it bored at minimum. I would be looking the whole thing over good to try and determine the cause of the damage. How do the valves and head look? What caused the rod to break? You might be better off sourcing a good used engine.

 

[DepotGuy71]

Not sure about these but in the automotive world the tops of the pistons would be stamped std or +xx. Clean the carbon off and see if it has any markings.

That said I don't think it had that much damage without scoring the cylinders. I believe you are looking at having it bored at minimum. I would be looking the whole thing over good to try and determine the cause of the damage. How do the valves and head look? What caused the rod to break? You might be better off sourcing a good used engine.

The valves and head look good. I think the engine seized because the top of the cylinder was rusted, and the bolts to the rod were loose. The rod didn't break, however the bolts broke and the upper half of the clamp that is connected to the rod bent to where it no longer looked like a "C".

Make sense?

 

[DieselAddict]

The thing to do is to measure everything and see where you stand. If you have a machine shop near you it would be worth it to drop the block off and have them measure the bores. Should cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $50. That would be cheap insurance to make sure you put it back together and have a solid engine.

If you have a micrometer you can measure the crank and other bearing surfaces yourself (or the shop can do it for you as well). Measuring the bore can be a little tricky and having the right tool makes it a lot easier. That is best left to the machine shop.

 

[DepotGuy71]

The thing to do is to measure everything and see where you stand. If you have a machine shop near you it would be worth it to drop the block off and have them measure the bores. Should cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $50. That would be cheap insurance to make sure you put it back together and have a solid engine.

If you have a micrometer you can measure the crank and other bearing surfaces yourself (or the shop can do it for you as well). Measuring the bore can be a little tricky and having the right tool makes it a lot easier. That is best left to the machine shop.

Ok. Great Idea. I was just speaking with a buddy at work and he was explaining that the .25, .50, and .75 mm means that it is the amount over the standard size bore which according to the LPW2 datasheet is 86 mm. Now I understand it a little better.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
It also depends on the end result of what you are going to do with it.

Where is NEPA? Northeast PA?

I have a new, ready to go complete DN2M-1 engine to sell.


I only ask, because you are going to freak at the prices they want for all the gaskets your going to need.

PM me for more info. I am off I-81 by Winchester, VA

 

[DepotGuy71]

Howdy,
It also depends on the end result of what you are going to do with it.

Where is NEPA? Northeast PA?

I have a new, ready to go complete DN2M-1 engine to sell.
View attachment 666531View attachment 666534

I only ask, because you are going to freak at the prices they want for all the gaskets your going to need.

PM me for more info. I am off I-81 by Winchester, VA

Thank you for the offer Mike. However, I specifically bought this engine as a learning tool. I only paid $50, and if I find that parts are too much I will probably just part it out and sell the parts. I have been able to get a pretty decent price on some pistons, now I just need a connecting rod. As far as the gaskets go couldn't I just use something like Permatex High Temp RTV Gasket maker ( https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/gasket-makers/ ) ?

Neal

 

[Daybreak]

Thank you for the offer Mike. However, I specifically bought this engine as a learning tool. I only paid $50, and if I find that parts are too much I will probably just part it out and sell the parts. I have been able to get a pretty decent price on some pistons, now I just need a connecting rod. As far as the gaskets go couldn't I just use something like Permatex High Temp RTV Gasket maker ( https://www.permatex.com/product-category/gasketing/gasket-makers/ ) ?

Neal

Howdy,
Yes, for a lot of places. But.... finding the overhaul kit is tough. I would look for a complete LPW2 overhaul kit now. It might take 2-3 weeks for it to arrive on the slow boat

Lister Joint sets
657-34241
657-34231
one is a bottom end, and the other is the top end. You also need to make sure you get the head gasket
************************
GENUINE LISTER PETTER OVERHAUL (TOP & BOTTOM) GASKET SET
SUITS LPW2 and LPWS2 RANGE OF LISTER PETTER ENGINES
752-47171 Cylinder Head Gasket x1
plus
657-34241 kit consists of
1:Cylinder Head Cover Joint x2 751-11073
2:Cylinder Head Cover O'Ring x4 201-81200
3:Valve Stem Seal x4 751-13570
4:Valve Stem Seal x4 751-41701
5ush Rod Tube Seal (bottom) x4 201-30261
6ush Rod Tube Seal (top) x4 201-42360
7ush Rod Tube Washer x4 751-11810
8:Injector Washer-DI X2 201-45070
9:Injector Washer-IDI X2 751-40630
10:Inlet Manifold Joint x2 751-11121
11:Exhaust Manifold Joint x2 751-10103
12:Water Pump Joint x1 751-40211
13:Water Pump O'Ring x2 601-20691
14:Mounting Plate Joint x1 751-40450
15:Thermostat Housing Joint x1 751-40281
16:End Cover Joint x1 751-11222
17:End Cover Joint x1 751-12800
18:Crankcase Door Joint x1 752-10802
19:Fuel Lift Pump Joint x1 751-11761
20:Bearing Housing Shim x1 751-11930
21:Bearing Housing Shim x1 751-11932
22:Speed Control O'Ring x2 751-10590
23:Speed Control Washer x1 272-00687
24:Fuel Pump Washer x6 031-61533
25:Oil Seal x1 751-10430
26:Oil Seal x1 751-10390

 

[BayDog]

I bought 4 of these engines last week. I will be parting out 2 of them. Let me know of you are interested.

 

[zarathustra]

If you are still looking, I have a 2 cyl take out engine that ran well before it was removed. I believe that the hours on it were around 70 or so. When I removed the intake manifold the glow plugs looked brand new.

 

[Thomas606]

Hi there, I am new to this and don’t really know where to start. I purchased a military surplus Onan four cylinder air cooled diesel, it has a twenty four volt starter. I do not know which direction it should rotate, cannot find an answer. One person says one way another says the opposite. Only number is a serial number B850749776. Any one have any ideas I would appreciate it, thank you

 

[Guyfang]

Can you post a picture? When standing to the rear of an engine, normally the fan turns to the right.