Lithium battery recharger for M998

[Weldman]

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[blutow]

Don't ever put a lithium as car battery in any vehicle, you can't charge them below 32 degrees Fahrenheit, don't take impact well which means you get in a wreck and you are likely to burn everyone involved alive from the battery exploding and lastly that trickle charger doesn't have the parameters to charge a lithium battery correctly causing a fire too. Poor BMS will be fighting the trickle charger on what it's doing.

Totally agree that lithium is a bad choice as starter “chassis” battery because of temp limitations and charging. Most bms’s would also struggle with the high current draw at startup. That said, they are a decent choice for running an audio system as long as you are running a dcdc charger and the bms has temp protection. They have much more energy density compared to lead and they can be discharged much deeper with no damage. Also, most drop in lithiums are lithium iron phosphate (LFP) which are a very safe chemistry unlike the batteries we see catching fire in teslas and consumer electronics. LFP is arguably safer than lead acid, not prone to thermal runaway like other lithium chemistries.

The op’s problem sounds more like a charging issue rather than a battery issue. Its hard to imagine that the continuous system loads exceed the output of that alternator, so I’d suspect a bad alternator or screwed up wiring.

 

[simp5782]

Totally agree that lithium is a bad choice as starter “chassis” battery because of temp limitations and charging. Most bms’s would also struggle with the high current draw at startup. That said, they are a decent choice for running an audio system as long as you are running a dcdc charger and the bms has temp protection. They have much more energy density compared to lead and they can be discharged much deeper with no damage. Also, most drop in lithiums are lithium iron phosphate (LFP) which are a very safe chemistry unlike the batteries we see catching fire in teslas and consumer electronics. LFP is arguably safer than lead acid, not prone to thermal runaway like other lithium chemistries.

The op’s problem sounds more like a charging issue rather than a battery issue. Its hard to imagine that the continuous system loads exceed the output of that alternator, so I’d suspect a bad alternator or screwed up wiring.

He has a 160amp alternator but his equalizer can only handle 100amps

 

[blutow]

He has a 160amp alternator but his equalizer can only handle 100amps

I assume the “equalizer” is the same thing as the Eaton step down converter? If so, that shouldn’t increase the alternator load, but actually limit it to 100a.

 

[mountaindogsix]

I ordered two new Odessey batteries. Not the $700 ones because they won't fit. I've got far too much stuff wired under the seats. We'll see if that works. I appreciate the advice. I had my audio guy go through the entire system when it was getting updated, and he didn't find anything. This is a recent issue with the degradation but if I'm supposed to be continuously totaling 27/28 amps then its been there the whole time. This is the only thing on the truck ever been a problem. Mechanical stuff has been easy to diagnose and fix. Again, thanks very much