1951M1078
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Anybody have photo's of the inside of the pcu ? Need to know what I will be looking at.
Thanks
Thanks
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Any time the ECU has 5 solid lights it is malfunctioning. The lights should not flicker either. This is not caused by anything external it is a bad ECU.Just started working on my CTIS. Not working. Some time I get the dash over speed light.?
But the best part is 5 lights "ON" !
Check the switch at the tank and it works. Adjusted the air up to 120 psi. Was at 90-100 +-.
Then drained the tanks.
Ran it for maybe 10 min's at 1500 rpm and saw the lights flicker then go out then Hwy.light only come on then nothing and back to 5 "ON" !
Check the dash harness all looks good.
I'm thinking it maybe best to go manual. PCU=$200-300 and the ECU is $300-500. But most parts are 15 + years old.
What do you guys think ?
Tires hold air ok, one seams to leak down more than others but their 2003's. Over a week will stay at 60 psi.
5 lights on solid: Bad ECUThanks Andy.
So I went for a 11 mile ride today. Went about 1/4 mile then the PCU started making air noises ? Looked at the ECU and I had a flashing HWY. light. Then a little more air sounds and then a steady red on the HWY light. About 1 1/2 miles all flickering ? Then more air sounds. Then back to steady red hwy light. about 3 miles more air sounds and still steady red Hwy ? Did this for about 4 miles. Then I look and all flickering ? All the way home ????
When the PCU made its air sounds I also could here the outside air dump's working.
Will check tire psi's in the morning.
The only things I have seen cause flickering is a stuck keypad or a bad ECU. I suppose an intermittent Swign or Gnd wire connection to the ECU might cause a flickering.evil, is their anything that I should look at for the flickering ? It almost looks like PC talk,code ? With luck it wont come back but ?
Slow inflation is due to the engine driven compressors inability to deliver air volume at low engine RPM. If you are parked at any time and the system is still inflating run the engine wide open and that will dramatically shorten the inflation time. On a separate note; a slow inflation due to a leak should only log a 2 flashing light fault indicating the two mode pressures it is stuck between, not a 5lt fault.Regarding the original 5 lights flashing scenario, I read this thread and others but none seemed to address my issue but I figured it out:
My symptoms were that the CTIS system seemed to be working but the 5 lights "rarely" stopped flashing. After testing and realizing how long it takes for the system to add air I realized that my only issue was a slow leak and that I wasn't driving it long enough to allow the system to air up all 4 tires.
As a test, I selected the sand option for lowest pressure. It took almost 5 minutes to reach that setting. When selecting highway again it took around 20 minutes to finally reach full pressure. I assume a bit of this was wasted on the slow leak (looks only slightly low after a couple of days) but either way it takes a long time and most of my drives were fairly short.
Are all the different flashing faults described in the manual? I don't think I've run across that before.a slow inflation due to a leak should only log a 2 flashing light fault indicating the two mode pressures it is stuck between, not a 5lt fault.
All the faults are listed with the associated flashing.Are all the different flashing faults described in the manual? I don't think I've run across that before.
Sorry but the ECU is bad.Can you guys watch this 2 minute video and let me know what you think is going on?
I bought this LMTV with CTIS unplugged. The guy I bought it from said it was unplugged when he bought it and he never plugged it in.
I plugged it in tonight after reading this entire thread. I then recorded this video from a cold start with no air pressure in the tanks.
Any help would greatly be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2Zb9CQM_2o
Thank you for the reply. I am sad.Sorry but the ECU is bad.
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