LMTV FMTV front axle outer seal replacement

[aw113sgte]

@Keith Knight have you found a CTIS hub seal driver? Or what's your plan?

I found a screwdriver works much better than the seal tool. You can slowly work it in from the screwdriver pushing only on the metal portion of the seal, and you don't have to push that hard to drive the CTIS seals in

 

[Keith Knight]

I ended up turning a tool in the lathe. But they do go in quite easily.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I found a screwdriver works much better than the seal tool. You can slowly work it in from the screwdriver pushing only on the metal portion of the seal, and you don't have to push that hard to drive the CTIS seals in

1/4 socket extension or a large flat blade screwdriver works just fine. I've done 4 trucks worth that way. No leaks. Just use your brain and be careful. Seal drivers for this application are only for when you are going to rely on 18 y/o kids to install them and every problem is a nail because they only know how to use a BFH.

 

[Keith Knight]

Finally got around to putting the video together and uploaded to YouTube.

Front Drive Axle seal replacement LMTV FMTV M1078

 

[hike]

Finally got around to putting the video together and uploaded to YouTube.

Front Drive Axle seal replacement LMTV FMTV M1078

Thank you. We'll be doing the fronts and it helps to see your experience.

One question on the rears: I didn't see any RTV in the half moons? Did I miss it? You are definitely cleaner than I am while working–

 

[Keith Knight]

I looked back at the end of the video and it does have RTV on the half moons. And the fact that I’m not leaking any fluids!

 

[CR_ieee.org]

Bushings I wouldn't worry about.

U-joints should be greased every 3-5k miles. Replaced every 15k miles on the high angle drive line trucks. The rear shaft for sure anyway. They are cheap and easy to change - don't risk a failure. You'll be looking for a new truck.

I've been using Red Line CV-2 synthetic about everywhere on the LMTV; it's worked great on our farm eqquipment. Any thoughts?

 

[GeneralDisorder]

I've been using Red Line CV-2 synthetic about everywhere on the LMTV; it's worked great on our farm eqquipment. Any thoughts?

Probably fine. I use Amsoil water resistant grease because I've used it for years on lots of stuff and I'm an Amsoil dealer and stock it at my shop on displays in the lobby so it's always handy.

It's more important that you do it often and consistently with the SAME grease each time (or at least grease with a compatible base chemistry) than what specific grease you use. The military uses GAA. "Grease, Automotive and Artillery" - it's a yellow "#2 Lithium Complex" and it's been around since at least WWII probably earlier. Anything you use that is modern will likely far outperform this stuff. But with these being operated outside their engineering envelope you probably can't be careful enough and the difference in the price of cheap grease vs good grease is probably well worth the insurance.

 

[CR_ieee.org]

Well noted and thanks for the info. I pumped all the zerks that were handy full of Red Line 80402 this morning. I'll keep it up regularly until any old grease has been purged out. It's not cheap but have found it to be an excellent product and great for applications like U-Joints, wheel bearings, other higher speed surfaces. This stuff is good for environments of -100 to 500 deg F.

Red Line 80402 synthetic grease.

John Deere markets a grease for bushings, etc which take impacts and operate under slower speed conditions. It's part # TY-25744 which I use on our loader, grapple, disc, etc. Since I have it around, it'd fit the bill for the leaf spring pins, etc.....

John Deere Multi-Purpose Extreme-Duty Synthetic Grease, 397 gram (14 Oz) Cartridge - TY25744 John Deere Multi-Purpose Extreme-Duty Synthetic Grease, 397 gram (14 Oz) Cartridge - TY25744 Original TY25744: Multi-Purpose Extreme-Duty Synthetic Grease

While I was under the truck, poking around, found 3 broken rubber boots in various places on the front end. I need to get after those.

 

[GeneralDisorder]

If they are the steering drag link and tie rod boots, here's the solution to that:

Tie rod and drag link dust boot part number and links

Bought some from an online military supplier (you know the ones) at huge markup. Measured them and found the part number from Energy Suspension. Here ya go: Energy Suspension 13013 This kit contains two (for $8.46): https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-13126g...

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