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LMTV Hitch Extension Kit installed!

Awesomeness

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Orlando, FL
We've been taking advantage of the coronapocalypse to get some work done, and we finally got the hitch extension kit installed.

  1. I have the rear step bumper, and with the bumper on the trailer neck hits the bumper, so I'm hoping this gives it enough clearance. Is that what this extension is actually for, or is it for something else?
  2. Everything is covered in TM 9-2320-365-34-2, 18-2. M1078/M1079 PINTLE HOOK EXTENSION KIT INITIAL INSTALLATION
  3. Under INITIAL SETUP - Equipment Conditions, it says "Cargo bed removed, if equipped (para 15-8).". Yeah, we did not remove the bed! Some parts are a bit of a hassle, but it's still totally doable. Taking the bed off would be a huge pain, so I don't understand why they would even suggest that. At the end, you have 16 bolts left over, that I assume were to reinstall the bed, but interestingly they are NOT huckbolts (thank god).
  4. It has a lot of bracing and stuff, a ridiculous amount actually (150lb worth). The pintle goes from being installed through a 1/2" steel plate on the truck, to inside a 1/2" plate box, plus a new frame cross-member and bracing. I wonder if the kit is a "one size fits all", including MTVs and trucks with heavier towing capacities? We installed it all anyway.
  5. The instructions have you remove 4 huckbolts. An easy way to do this is to use a cutoff wheel into the side of the huckbolt, just where the smooth collar meets the hex head. In this area of the fastener there are no threads, so once you cut through the bolt inside it just falls off (some needed a whack from a hammer).
    HuckboltRemoval.jpg
  6. You need to drill 4x 3/4" (or 19mm) holes in the back plate cross-member of the truck. We rented a mag drill, and used a 3/4" hole saw. The mag drill took a little careful positioning to be able to reach all the holes, but worked. The 3/4" hole saw wobbled some and actually cut holes about 13/16" (~0.050" oversized), mostly because the rental drill has been abused, but the holes worked fine. This metal drilled fine, and did not appear to be hardened... the bit is still nice and sharp.
    HitchExtension-1.jpg
    HitchExtension-2.jpg
  7. After that it was mostly bolt together. Putting the L-brackets that hold the wiring in place back on was a bit of a hassle, because it's hard to reach up in there. (Still not worth taking the bed off! Are they nuts?) Looks good complete, though I'll have to get the CARC out and paint it. I haven't been able to test it with the trailer yet.
    HitchExtension-3.jpg
    HitchExtension-4.jpg
Next project is the winch!
 

Third From Texas

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Location
Corpus Christi Texas
Couldn't you just make a new center piece, and swap them? Or does that not come out?
I'm thinking that I might be able to mount it like most people do (using the four holes for the pintle). But there will be nothing below to help re-enforce it back to the lower frame like most do). That's what has me stumped. I was even thinking of just using pins to hold some sort of lower brace when the hitch is retracted and just not use the 2" in the extended position. But I've not looked to see exactly what all unbolts when it's all broken down...
 

Awesomeness

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Location
Orlando, FL
Is that extending hitch in your picture military, or custom?

It looks like there is a 1" thick steel plate where the pintle is connected. You should be able to get around and put bolt holes in the bottom of it. Or weld to it.
 

chucky

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
TN .
Question for Third From Texas ? How long does that hitch tube extend out ? Ive either got to make what you have or extend the neck on my 1082 and i have 2 trailers to do . What youve got is the best idea ive seen so far .
 

chucky

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
TN .
so your saying 7 .25 more than the picture is showing
 

chucky

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
TN .
Is that say 6 or 7 in padt the d rings on the frame looking at it from the side its hard to tell looking at the picture thanks for letting me know
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
TN .
Thanks again i see what your saying . Im going to go with that just make it about 2 ft of extension and do 2 diferant pin location holes and put a 1/2 plate drop under the pintle and put a receiver tube in for other trailers
 

coachgeo

Well-known member
5,147
3,463
113
Location
North of Cincy OH
We've been taking advantage of the coronapocalypse to get some work done, and we finally got the hitch extension kit installed.

  1. I have the rear step bumper, and with the bumper on the trailer neck hits the bumper, so I'm hoping this gives it enough clearance. Is that what this extension is actually for, or is it for something else?
  2. Everything is covered in TM 9-2320-365-34-2, 18-2. M1078/M1079 PINTLE HOOK EXTENSION KIT INITIAL INSTALLATION
  3. Under INITIAL SETUP - Equipment Conditions, it says "Cargo bed removed, if equipped (para 15-8).". Yeah, we did not remove the bed! Some parts are a bit of a hassle, but it's still totally doable. Taking the bed off would be a huge pain, so I don't understand why they would even suggest that. At the end, you have 16 bolts left over, that I assume were to reinstall the bed, but interestingly they are NOT huckbolts (thank god).
  4. It has a lot of bracing and stuff, a ridiculous amount actually (150lb worth). The pintle goes from being installed through a 1/2" steel plate on the truck, to inside a 1/2" plate box, plus a new frame cross-member and bracing. I wonder if the kit is a "one size fits all", including MTVs and trucks with heavier towing capacities? We installed it all anyway.
  5. The instructions have you remove 4 huckbolts. An easy way to do this is to use a cutoff wheel into the side of the huckbolt, just where the smooth collar meets the hex head. In this area of the fastener there are no threads, so once you cut through the bolt inside it just falls off (some needed a whack from a hammer).
    View attachment 793668
  6. You need to drill 4x 3/4" (or 19mm) holes in the back plate cross-member of the truck. We rented a mag drill, and used a 3/4" hole saw. The mag drill took a little careful positioning to be able to reach all the holes, but worked. The 3/4" hole saw wobbled some and actually cut holes about 13/16" (~0.050" oversized), mostly because the rental drill has been abused, but the holes worked fine. This metal drilled fine, and did not appear to be hardened... the bit is still nice and sharp.
    View attachment 793669
    View attachment 793670
  7. After that it was mostly bolt together. Putting the L-brackets that hold the wiring in place back on was a bit of a hassle, because it's hard to reach up in there. (Still not worth taking the bed off! Are they nuts?) Looks good complete, though I'll have to get the CARC out and paint it. I haven't been able to test it with the trailer yet.
    View attachment 793671
    View attachment 793672
Next project is the winch!
apparently there is more to this hitch than just the green shown here.... did you install the whole kit including the new cross member that goes behind the main plate it bolted too?
 

chucky

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,622
18,965
113
Location
TN .
I'll have to measure it in the morning, but these images are with it fully extended:

View attachment 793899

View attachment 793900
Ive been pondering on this hitch problem you have ! Yes its ugly and really takes away from the looks of your truck ! And everybody that you drive by make fun of you and your truck and that awful hitch . So as much as it pains me to take the burden off your shoulders i am willing to pay the freight from your driveway to mine at no cost to you in any way ! Yes i would do that for you and i know folks like me dont come along that often doing kind things for the down trodden so when you get it out from under there just give me a holler and you can go back to holding your head up high again when driving your truck no more heckling from the locals .
 
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