Locker vs Limited slip in front axle of m1008

[Gripy]

I am thinking about improving the truck by installing one of these. What do you guys recommend? I've been searching around and have been getting mixed opinions.

I have heard that lockers front and rear can end up breaking things; is the 6.2 even strong enough to do that?
What about this "True Track" that I have seen? Its a LSD with out a clutch disc.

Many recommend an air locker, but that is no going to happen due to $$$

 

[richingalveston]

I have an eaton e-locker. I have used it a couple times and it works well. Only time will tell on its durability.
Do not have to rely on air even though I plan to install air in the future.
I believe it was around $850 plus install. I rebuilt entire axle when I had it installed.

Rich

 

[my blood flows OD]

I have a long history in extreme rock crawling and mud trucks. You have nothing to worry about. You won't brake a Dana 60 with a locker unless you plan on running 40" boggers.
as far as what to run for a locker, well you get what you pay for. E-lockers and air locker are the best cause you control when they engages. This gives you the best of both worlds, the traction of a locker without the bad behavior issues such as loss of steering control when a lunch box locker like a lock rite engages when cornering on a snowy road. This will only happen if you accelerate in the corner.
I think your decision to run a locker is great do the research on what you plan on running and under stand the mannerism of it and drive accordingly and you will love it.

 

[Recovry4x4]

I will be.following this as well. Mine will mostly be minimal off roaring but mostly hills when it happens. I also need calmer mannerisms for snowy road driving in the mountains. E Locker sounds perfect but twice the.cost of a Powrlock LSD. Decisions.

 

[wheelspinner]

How do these all compare to the locker in the 1028 front axle standard?

 

[metal tech]

I have a true trac in the front dana 60 on my 2001 Ram3500 4wd. I got it mainly for snowy, icy driving here in OKC. You can feel thepower shift to the tire which has traction but it does not make you fight thesteering like a locked locker might. It makes getting around in the winter muchbetter which is what I needed, tires too skinny for serious soft groundoffroading. For a truck that is mainly a street driver a true trac is a greatoption, if you lift a wheel off-road you have to apply slight brake to get thepower to transfer to the tire still on the ground. If your more off-road thanon, a locker is the better option as if you lift a wheel, you still get powerto both tires. FYI, a true trac uses worm gears not clutch plates to get the job done.

 

[gimpyrobb]

If torsen has an option for your axle, that is the best option for a street and trail rig.

 

[patracy]

How do these all compare to the locker in the 1028 front axle standard?

Just for clarification, the 1028 front is a limited slip (clutch) style differential.

 

[FASTNOVA]

Unless you plan on doing some big time rock crawling I would go with a Truetrac LSD especially for daily driving. It's easier on the driveline. Looking at a few videos online it seems to work pretty good.https://youtu.be/ZrfaZl55pz8

 

[Chaski]

Truetrac or quaife torque biasing differentials are neat, and would be great for snow or mud. They are most definitely not a locker, and do no good if you have 0% traction on one wheel. I have one in the back of my dodge pickup and it is nice for a street rig. I could see how one would be nice in the front of a sand, mud or snow toy.

Honestly if I was going to lock up the front of my pickup it would be a cable actuated OX brand locker, or an ARB, or an e-locker.
Also if I was going to run a front locker I would have hydraulic assist steering. Trying to steer a locked rig is difficult to say the least.

 

[Gripy]

Fastnova I would not be planning to do anything much more difficult than what we have done on previous trips. My brother has detroit lockers front and rear in his rig. But he does not wheel as often so I am still wondering.

But i am leaning more towards a truetrack LSD.

 

[FASTNOVA]

Here are some reviews on the Truetrac.
http://www.offroaders.com/reviewbox/showproduct.php?product=252

 

[cyberpigue]

I've heard that for mixed driving you're actually better off with Truetrac in the rear and detroit style locker in the front. Reason being, rear on street needs easier differentiation than a detroit and front can be locked on one side or the other for street driving in snow or both sides for crawling and mudding. It makes sense when you think about it. Plus, a locked front end doesn't have the same difference in side to side speed as the rear does as the tires both point in the same direction even when turned. Thoughts?

 

[richingalveston]

I hope both the rear tires point in the same direction also.

You really want a selectable locker up front. A Detroit is not selectable. You want to be able to turn it off.

Does not matter the front and the rear both have the same side to side differential in speed when turning it is a function of how wide apart the tires are side to side not front to back.

locking the diff and leaving one hub unlocked is not exactly like limited slip. It works but not quite the same.

The Detroit is best in the rear due to durability not just performance.

 

[red]

I've heard that for mixed driving you're actually better off with Truetrac in the rear and detroit style locker in the front. Reason being, rear on street needs easier differentiation than a detroit and front can be locked on one side or the other for street driving in snow or both sides for crawling and mudding. It makes sense when you think about it. Plus, a locked front end doesn't have the same difference in side to side speed as the rear does as the tires both point in the same direction even when turned. Thoughts?

Bad idea for a full time locker in a front axle if it's on the pavement whether you engage 1 hub or both. With both engaged the truck does not want to turn, will keep trying to drag itself forward instead of left/right. With 1 hub engaged it pulls to that side, and can be very unpredictable on snow/ice roads. Asking to cause a wreck.

If you are mostly on pavement go with the limited slip in the rear axle and you will not have to modify your driving style.

A fullsize pickup/suv does not notice the effects of a locker in the rear axle nearly as much as a jeep/small suv does around town, longer the wheelbase the less noticable it becomes.

 

[cyberpigue]

My point about the front tires pointing in the same direction is that that because they both turn to point into the curve, the outside wheel turns closer to the same speed as the inner wheel than the rears do since the rears are fixed perpendicular to the axle. Since the point of rotation in the curve is not the center of the vehicle or the front of the vehicle, but closer to the rear of the vehicle, the rear wheels do in fact experience greater differentiation than the front.

Since A and B travel more nearly the same distance than C and D due to the vehicle pivoting at the rear, a locked front axle has less impact on "jump" and "bind" than it would in the rear. This, some believe with good reason, that if you are on the cheap, and want the best of both worlds on street and off road, means a locker in the front and Truetrac in the rear accomplishes better handling on and off road.

Of course selectable lockers on each end would be the best, but I don't have that kind of money to throw at axles. Of course locking one front wheel is not like posi trac, but it is safe on road in snow or patches of snow as it easily allows the steering axle to have different wheel speeds and provides extra pull. Since the rear is not locked from the get go, it will also behave better on road, but provide needed traction off road - especially when the fronts are locked.

If you end up stuck on road in snow, obviously you just engage the other hub.

 

[red]

You're talking in theory, not from real world experience. Real world experience will teach you that a front locker on pavement (snow/ice/standing water), whether 1 or both hubs locked, is asking for a wreck. Driving on pavement with a rear locker can be a learning experience that is controllable in good or bad weather. The front locked is unpredictable in bad weather. Propponents of a front locker (with experience driving said vehicle) will tell you the same thing.

Around the turn you're forgetting to take into account the different wheel speed required for a smooth turn under power, that applies to both front and rear axles not just the rear.

Add to it the increased strain from wear/tear on the front steering when it's locked. the CUCV has hydroboost steering, so the power assist and box are strong enough to hold the steering turned when the front decides to jump through a turn. The frame section that the steering box is mounted too will not survive without reinforcement. This is a known weak spot for these trucks with offroad driving, front locked while on pavement puts more strain on that frame section because the tires are unable to kick some dirt/rocks/mud.

 

[my blood flows OD]

I have a heavy background of building and wheeling extreme rock crawling and mud machines and I have to agree with red on this one. A full locker in the front will cause your front end to slide out in a in a corner. This is why I never liked running tires with no laderal traction, such as TSL boggers on the front end.
No matter what you do you are going to change the no road mannerisms of your vehicle with any traction device. It's the nature of the beast.

 

[cyberpigue]

Well, I'm 58 and have been driving on and off road since I was 16, so yeah, I have no real world experience. And my post CLEARLY said "I have heard" and asked for thoughts. Your first response was one of sarcasm "I hope both the rear tires point in the same direction also." But most certainly, you are superior to me. I yield to your glory.

 

[richingalveston]

when off road in the mud, I have to turn the front locker off in order to get the truck to turn some times. I am not going to get out of the truck in the mud in order to unlock a hub.

snow and ice it is even worse.

My eaton E locker was about $800.oo I went with it since I did not have the money at the time for on board air. It works great. I have not been very rough on it yet but the reviews on durability were not bad.
I spent $300 getting the axle rebuilt by a professional and that included installing the locker. If you can do the work yourself then The cost difference between a selectable locker and truetrack or Detroit is less than $300.

Save up the money for a selectable in the front or stay limited slip.