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Lockout hubs

Recovry4x4

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look guys , if you put your truck up on a lift with the t.c. in rear wheel drive, and run it at hwy speeds everything turns at the same speed very shortly, this is why I don't bother with lockouts. The main trucks that need lockouts are the one's with locking diff's in the front or midddle axel to prevent binding, and long haulers for mileage and some wear. I only make short runs in my m35 and want to stay dry when I need 6x6.
As to most 4x4 ratios there were some that had 4.10 and 4.11 mismatch but it is not considered proper, if you can match exactly you are better off in the long run. Now the thing is most civi trucks have open or limited slip diff's that even on pavement will releave most of the binding. I have built trucks for mud bogging that had diffrent ratios front and rear but even some of them question if it works.:roll:

I worked in a driveline shop and I have a A.S. in heavy equipment repair.
In a perfect world with steel wheels of exact same circumference and going in a straight line, your comments would be true. Tire circumference varies wildly even with 8 tires in a matched set. Because both axles are mechanically forced to travel the same speeds, tires of different circumference will scrub. Both axles turning the same speed will also cause plowing, pushing the truck forward in a turn. Adding one lockout can alleviate the plowing and tire scrub between two axles forced to go the same speed. There is also a formula for matching 8 tires.
 

73m819

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i pulled the rear drive line on the 819, i dont feel the two rear axles fighting each other, though i do get axle scrub with tight turns, more of a sideways drag because of my length wish thay made somethimg like above for the 5ts, ive been temped to pull the axle and install a front hub cover
 
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jdmcgowen

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Your not being argumentative, your just misinformed.

Take the 4.11 gear ratio that every one seems to love in their older 4x4's. You will find that a "set" for the front and rear willl be 4.10 & 4.11. It's not a large difference, but it is there.
I totally agree with you on this RUSS81. I've had 2 fords with 4.11 back and 4.10 front. Definitely for steering. Don't want rear wheels pushing you on ice. So I don't know why people are disagreeing with you. I will say though that not all 4x4's where designed this way, but it's much better this way. I was confused on this a couple years ago when I replaced the entire front end on a 87 F150. My 92 F250 is the same way. Learned that when I rebuilt my rear end. I even went as far as asking the Ford garage, and they explained the importance to me. This being said, I'm KNOW you are right.
 

jdmcgowen

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One last thing here. Think about this all. When you turn in a truck your front axle has a greater distance to travel. Correct? Yes. If you have the same ratio and you are in 4x4 and on snow or ice, when going straight there are no problems, while turning though your rear wheels want to push your front wheels. Correct? Yes. You don't want that. You want control of your vehicle. That is why it is very important to leave your vehicle in 2x4 while on dry pavement. It's not rocket science, it's years of trial and error by our automotive companies. For extreme 4x4 I would say that's a different subject, where it wouldn't be important. Not worth arguing over any more, and I'm not trying to argue, I just don't want someone to be misinformed. Go ahead guys fire at wheel, degree in B.S. School of hard knocks.
 

stumps

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I totally agree with you on this RUSS81. I've had 2 fords with 4.11 back and 4.10 front. Definitely for steering. Don't want rear wheels pushing you on ice. So I don't know why people are disagreeing with you. I will say though that not all 4x4's where designed this way, but it's much better this way. I was confused on this a couple years ago when I replaced the entire front end on a 87 F150. My 92 F250 is the same way. Learned that when I rebuilt my rear end. I even went as far as asking the Ford garage, and they explained the importance to me. This being said, I'm KNOW you are right.
You may be right, but it wasn't done for the reason you state.

Let's do the math: 4.10/4.11 x 100 feet = 99.76 feet.

That means that your front will try to go 100 feet when the back goes 99.76 feet.... 3 inches difference every 100 feet is insignificant. You get as much variation in normal tire diameters.

-Chuck
 

monkster

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I view it like this I want, them, even for the 5T (Havn't found any yet, may make them). Less wear on the drive train in frt. less fuel consumed (how long would you own and drive your truck) We just went though the transfercase in the 5T and w/ 12000 mi you can see the wear on the shafts and the shifter fork. Also go for a drive, about a half hour, feel the transfercase, it is hot, I thank lock outs can stop some of that.
 

stumps

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Lockouts can make a big difference. On my F250, they make about a 3MPG difference. They also reduces the vibration, as the front U-joints are not turning. And, most importantly, it keeps the front wheels rotating on snowy roads when you are in rear wheel drive... It takes a lot of torque to push all of that heavy oil in the differential and that can be enough to stop the wheels from rotating in the snow.

-Chuck
 

Unforgiven

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Get it from ODiron. That is all you need.
Ah, because they are full floating axles. I get it now. Just the little center cap dust cover thingy needs to be replaced with a splined axle long enough to have the lockouts engage. Thx. The ODIRON place has axles the proper length? The axle shafts don't have a C clip in the differential do they?
 

dabtl

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All you need is t the lock out, the axle and gaskets. The AVM lockout appears to be much lower cost than the Oueverson. Check with JT at jatonkam35s.com. That is the brand I have.

Remove the stock axle by unbolting the hub, put the dual splined axle, align the locker and bolt it in. That is the entire process. It might take five minutes.
 

73m819

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5ts have a over running sprag TC, if you use locking hubs, the TC will always try to be in front wheel drive because of the over running sprag design, the way to get around this is to install the MWO, this has a air switch that cuts the air to the trans air valves, putting the sprag into neutral
 

Unforgiven

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All you need is t the lock out, the axle and gaskets. The AVM lockout appears to be much lower cost than the Oueverson. Check with JT at jatonkam35s.com. That is the brand I have.

Remove the stock axle by unbolting the hub, put the dual splined axle, align the locker and bolt it in. That is the entire process. It might take five minutes.

That makes sense. But I can't find the double splined shafts at ODiron. Would the ones I linked to earlier from wherever that place was work? I would hate to spend hundreds of bucks to find out I'm 2 inches short on the axle. I'm not sure what the double-splined ones are normally for. Are they made to reach just to the back of the hub? If so, then they wouldn't be long enough to reach the front of the hub w/lockouts.

I really think a lot of the vibration & tire wear issues could be helped by making one of the rear axles lockout. I don't need 6x6 when going to Home Depot or Lowes.
 

jdmcgowen

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You may be right, but it wasn't done for the reason you state.

Let's do the math: 4.10/4.11 x 100 feet = 99.76 feet.

That means that your front will try to go 100 feet when the back goes 99.76 feet.... 3 inches difference every 100 feet is insignificant. You get as much variation in normal tire diameters.

-Chuck
Chuck, are you saying they do this due to the variation in the tire diameters? That would make sense.
 

army70deuce

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Ok, I've been doing some reading and just so I'm tracking, Lockout hubs for front axle is a no brainer, going to do that, now adding 1 lockout hub to the middle axle will make it turn better and not fight the rear axle. So since most places sell in sets of 2 for lockouts, if you put a lockout and axle shaft on each side of the middle axle that would give you a 2x6 around town instead of the normal 4x6 right (or the one lockout 3x6) and since you have to get out and lock both sides of the front axle when you go offroad (if you think you'll need 6x6) then it isn't that much more work to just reengage the both sides of the middle axle as well.
Are there any flaws in my thinking here. Any issues with 2x6 for around town? It seems to me that would cause less wear and tear and you'd just 2 have hubs pushing instead of 3 hubs with just one rear lockout, and odd numbers are just weird to deal with.
 
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tie6044

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You don't have to add a lockout to each side of the middle axle, one will be enough. Unless you have a locker in that axle the other side opposite the lockout will not engage so you will have just a 2 wheel drive truck. Call Randy at Ouversons, they will sell just one lockout and one double splined shaft for your setup.
 

Marlboro

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I run the Ouverson lockouts too and really like the fact that everything up front is not spinning needlessly. One thing to keep in mind is that they will always hold their value pretty well, plenty of off-road guys would buy a good used set if you ever decided to sell your deuce without them.

If you want a set of Ouverson's lockouts let me know, I can get you a set for $585.00 with free shipping within the U.S.

What's your price today? Looking to buy this week...thanks
 
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