looking for M35A3 winch parts

[m16ty]

I aways thought if I went with a hyd winch I'd go with an electric solenoid valve. That way you could use one of those remote switches on a cord to run the winch ( like alot of electric winches have).

I've got hyd on my truck to run the dump. I had a hard time finding a factory made tank that fit my needs. There's just not a whole lot of places to mount a tank unless it's custom made. I ended up building a tank that fits over my spare tire in place of the pioneer tool rack ( it had to go anyway for the dump).

 

[mudguppy]

18 gpm on the valve is going to slow down your max winch speed.

1500 psi relief is going to limit your max pull. get a valve with an adjustable relief setting to 'tweak' your max pull pressure setting. you can do this destructively (by means of shear pins) or mathmatecally - your choice.

 

[Sephirothq]

The valve i was looking at is set at 1500 PSI relief but it is adjustable to 3000 PSI. I see in your post that it should be set to 2200 psi.

The info that i have on the pump says that it will only produce 13 GPM. But i don't know that RPM that is based off of.


On the valve electric versus mechanical. I was thinking the mechanical would be more adjustable to control the line speed.

 

[m16ty]

On the valve electric versus mechanical. I was thinking the mechanical would be more adjustable to control the line speed.

You'll have a little variable speed with a mechanical valve by feathering the valve but it won't be much. IMO the remote control would far outweigh this.

We put a 40,000lb military wecker rear winch on a Kenworth. We converted it to hyd power. I know this 40K winch is alot different but it really doesn't move fast enough to have any advatage of feathering the valve. The way it's set up is the valve is mounted on the side of the truck behind the cab (right beside the winch). Attached to the valve (along with the control handle) is a air cylinder. Inside the cab is a air switch that contols the cylinder on the valve. This allows contol ouside the truck and also contol inside the cab. You might consider this if you need two contol points.

 

[Sephirothq]

can you get any pics of the air cylinder setup?

 

[mudguppy]

You'll have a little variable speed with a mechanical valve by feathering the valve but it won't be much. IMO the remote control would far outweigh this. ...

18 gpm (at ~1400 engine rpm) will net you about 23 fpm bare drum, and up to 46 fpm full drum.

IMHO, having variable control of line speed from 0 to 46 fpm would be a good thing.

 

[wldrbob]

you will get complete control by fethering the valve but it will take a bit of practice, watch sombody using an older backhoe they can move the boom with perfect control and there are fethering the valves .you can put in a variable flow control valve if you feel you need one . and i would not put in a suction filter ,if you get any cold weather at all put in a return line filter . pumps usualy give gpm for the top rpm of the pump .

 

[m16ty]

I don't know how you compare a backhoe to a winch. I'm just going by experience of somebody who has converted a PTO winch to hyd. On our setup you just pull the valve and control line speed by engine rpm. Granted, it moves a little slower than 46 fpm. You may ease into it a little if you've got a heavy load but usually the stretch of the cable keeps it from being too abrupt of a start. When you use the cab control on our setup it's all or nothing because the valve is contoled by an air cylinder. Now I have toggled the valve "on" and "off" when I was trying to be real easy with the pull. I routinely pull close to the max 45K rating of this winch and sometimes have to add a snatch block to get enough pull.

I'll try and get some pics this afternoon.

 

[wldrbob]

my back hoe and my winch on it have the same type manual valve block and if you are using a set of gin poles on an oilfield truck and need to move your load an inch or less you dont control it by engin rpm ,your engine is set to your gpm of your pump and you leave it set there and use your valve body and your adjustable flow control .personal experiance running one in the swan hills of alberta . if your experiance is different so be it.

 

[Sephirothq]

i have a case 580b backhoe so i am familiar with operating the valves a little at a time to have better control.

 

[wldrbob]

yes thats exactly right, if you can run your bucket to scratch off a couple inches or less of dirt over a burried line you know what im talking about.

 

[m16ty]

I've got a backhoe and have owned several trackhoes so I know a little bit about digging and "lever control". I also have two cranes. There is a big difference in running a set of gin poles and using a winch for winching operations. Anyway, I'm not going to argue anymore I'm just going by using my hyd winch atleast a few times a week. I still say that remote operation will still outweigh the need to "feather" the valve.


Here's the pics requested.

 

[wldrbob]

we used one winch truck with gin poles to lift a d6c widepad (about 32000 lbs )with a blown engine first try it lifted the front wheels on the truck so we chained it down to the blade on a d8k and lifted it high enough to back a lowboy under it . remote operation wasnt an option that day , but you could run it from inside the cab looking out through the headache rack . that truck had 2 winches one 90k and one 30k .you do a bunch of different winching jobs on the oil patch and a lot of them are done by pole trucks

 

[m816Buch]

i have a hydraulic motor off a 20,000 lb winch char-lynn #109 1094 004 but i cannot find any specs on this motor

 

[runk]

4000 series motor
hydraulics.eaton.com/products/pdfs/C-MOLO-TP015-E.pdf

Only found one supplier with that particular number, (but no specs) it is probably an old one, or made for a specific application. If you find a motor with similar physical dimensions in the same series, it will probably have similar performance specs. Note the last 3 digits "004" are just the version number. The differences are usually mounts and shafts. Call or e-mail Eaton, or a local distributor, and they can probably get you the specs and point you to a manual pdf, for that that specific motor.

 

[rwoods]

A3 pump and A3 motor

You can save yourselves a lot of time and money as there have been numerous listings and relistings of the proper A3 pump and the proper A3 motor on EBay - just search M35A3. They have been so cheap I thought of buying a pair as spares for my w/w A3. Get those and the rest is just plumbing unless you are doing a restoration. Ron

 

[Sephirothq]

I got the following A3 parts for the winch

I have the motor, the pump, the coupler between the motor and the winch, the adapter that connects the motor to the winch body. I have the air controls to activate the motor and the directional switch.

I still need the two valves one to activate the winch and one to control the direction, i need the filter assembly. I need the tank and the brackets, and the hoses.

What i am probably going to do is to get aftermarket parts to fill the gaps.

The tank will be a commercial tank bolted to the frame where the spare would be.
The valve will be a manual control valve mounted in the cab. I will have to make some sort of lock out for it.
The hoses I will get made at a local hydraulic shop.
The filter I will get an off the shelf item.

 

[rwoods]

I got the following A3 parts for the winch

I have the air controls to activate the motor and the directional switch.

I still need the two valves one to activate the winch and one to control the direction, i need the filter assembly. I need the tank and the brackets, and the hoses.

What i am probably going to do is to get aftermarket parts to fill the gaps.

The tank will be a commercial tank bolted to the frame where the spare would be.
The valve will be a manual control valve mounted in the cab. I will have to make some sort of lock out for it.

Assuming you have another place for your spare, this location for the tank sure beats the usual set up IMO. The tank is not well protected on the factory set up.

If you get a valve with an air cylinder actuation, you can place the valve outside the cab. I'm sure there is a reason the usual set up has two valves but I'm not sure this is necessary. A good hydraulic shop should be able to tell you.

At the risk of being run off for not following the two man rule, a hand lever can easily be installed on the factory set up which allows you to be up front for clutch engagement and respooling.

Ron

PS I picked up a spare NOS pump, motor and air valve off eBay for far less than the cost of a comparable motor.

 

[Sephirothq]

I have a setup from a tractor that i am going to put behind the cab so i will have a good place for the spare with a lifting device to help get it up and down.

I haven't found a source of the control valves. There are two valves on the stock setup one just dumps the fluid to the tank directly or sends it to the second valve that controls the direction forward or backward.

I have both switches for in the cab. i will have to make a different setup as i don't have an automatic in the truck, so no shifter tower.