While doing a post flight inspection of the chassis oiling system I noticed that 1 of the 8 bolts that hold the short shaft between the transmission and transfer case was missing and 6 of the other 7 were loose. Not good. These have the milspec lock nuts on them. Do these lock nuts loose tension over time and need to be replaced with new? I'm going back under the truck and put a wrench on everything I can find to make sure all is tight. I got this truck in February from the Florida NG thru GL.
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Loose Driveline Bolts
- Thread starter renovate7
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Nope not good,, Lock nuts should LOCK. They are probably grade 8 bolts fine thread. That short shaft seems to be the one that gets the least attention.
Replace the bolt and nut tighten all of them ,,move the truck and recheck. Hopefully the bolt holes have not wallowed out . I`m sure there are others here that can add to this post
Replace the bolt and nut tighten all of them ,,move the truck and recheck. Hopefully the bolt holes have not wallowed out . I`m sure there are others here that can add to this post
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I have seen several dueces with driveshafts loose come out of GL. I'd check everyone when you get them.
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This is a fairly common finding among deuce owners. I try to check mine monthly(depending on use). I did a quick search and found some posts on this topic. Here's one...
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....e=viewtopic&t=8514&highlight=driveshaft+bolts
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index....e=viewtopic&t=8514&highlight=driveshaft+bolts
jwaller
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I've seen it on almost all my deuces. I always check those things. I've seen the rear shafts get loose too so check them all.
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You can use the bolts ove if they aren't damaged. Go get a mess of new lock nuts. When I did the t-case, all of the short bolts were loose...again, so I just replaced all of the nuts on all of the shafts. So far, no loose bolts, but there is only a thousand or so miles on it.
jimm1009
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loose driveline bolts
Those are mil-spec nuts and bolts.
The only way that they would come loose is if the nuts were worn out when they were installed last time or they were not torqued when last installed. They should not be able to be turned down the bolt by hand and should have a fair amount of friction. If it was my truck (and it's not), I would change any nuts that were found loose and possibly the bolts too but they do deserve a good inspection first.
I replaced my driveshaft nuts with new ones but there is no reason why they could not normally be reused if there is minimum friction on them while tightening them down.
They are commonly available from aviation parts suppliers and some civy nuts & bolts suppliers too. They are at least a grade 5 and are a fine thread nut as well but relatively easy to obtain.
It seems that most of the hardware holding these trucks together is mil-spec which is a good thing since it is a tighter tolerance and generally stonger material.
PLEASE stay away from Chinese junk from Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
If you have two different types, it is very important to install them so they are 180 degrees from each other. You don't want three or one of one style on the same end or it could lead to slight imbalance issues. Go with two and two if needed.
Jim
Those are mil-spec nuts and bolts.
The only way that they would come loose is if the nuts were worn out when they were installed last time or they were not torqued when last installed. They should not be able to be turned down the bolt by hand and should have a fair amount of friction. If it was my truck (and it's not), I would change any nuts that were found loose and possibly the bolts too but they do deserve a good inspection first.
I replaced my driveshaft nuts with new ones but there is no reason why they could not normally be reused if there is minimum friction on them while tightening them down.
They are commonly available from aviation parts suppliers and some civy nuts & bolts suppliers too. They are at least a grade 5 and are a fine thread nut as well but relatively easy to obtain.
It seems that most of the hardware holding these trucks together is mil-spec which is a good thing since it is a tighter tolerance and generally stonger material.
PLEASE stay away from Chinese junk from Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
If you have two different types, it is very important to install them so they are 180 degrees from each other. You don't want three or one of one style on the same end or it could lead to slight imbalance issues. Go with two and two if needed.
Jim
scooter01922
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Those do see to do that...heres my thread from when i found mine loose http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=22508&highlight=pucker
Size is 1/2-20 X 1 3/4, the bolts are cheap enough that you may as well replace them while your replacing the nuts. Use grade 8 hardware. Got my stuff thru fastenal.com
Size is 1/2-20 X 1 3/4, the bolts are cheap enough that you may as well replace them while your replacing the nuts. Use grade 8 hardware. Got my stuff thru fastenal.com
FormerNewMVGuy
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Yes ,Fastenal can get you all the mil-spec stuff you need , there just happens to be a fastenal store about 9 miles from my house, needless to say i have an account there now 
desertfox
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I have seen elastic stop nuts on alot of drivelines. If they become lose, change them to a cone lock nut or use a new grade 8 lock washer. Check all threads to make sure non are pulled or bolts stretched. The military has a tendency to over tighten.
[In my opinion]
After removing many nuts and bolts on deuces I find the threads are ruined in many cases due to over tightening. All suspension and chassis fasteners should be grade 8! The military also habitually uses grade 8 where a grade 5 would be quit adequate.
[In my opinion]
After removing many nuts and bolts on deuces I find the threads are ruined in many cases due to over tightening. All suspension and chassis fasteners should be grade 8! The military also habitually uses grade 8 where a grade 5 would be quit adequate.
jasonjc
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If you read the TM's you will see that ALL locking hardware is to be trown away and replaced, nuts and washers a like. And yes the short shaft does seem to loosen up.
scooter01922
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oh, forgot to mention, as if it wasn't obvious. Don't use the nylon lockwashers, use the all metal deformed thread type ones. By the way newmvguy, there is a fastenal store near here too. Went in to get my deuce bolts and came out with a part time job
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tmbrwolf
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I'll add to what the others have said, that when we find them loose in our shop we don't bother to tighten them back up, we replace the hardware, new bolt and locknut. Check them often that shaft is the worse for loosening up on the truck!
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The "all metal" locknuts are Grade C. They meet the grade 8 specs. That is what to ask for. My old M37 drive lines all would loosen up. Re-tighten, as mentioned above, doesn't work. Replace the stuff! Make sure there are no threads (only the solid, smooth) bolt shaft, at the interface of the two flanges! You want the full diameter of the bolt there. For that reason, sometimes its hard to find the appropriate length Grade 8, off the shelf, without having to cut off some extra thread.
Lee in Alaska
Lee in Alaska
tmbrwolf
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DO NOT USE the nylock nuts, it's a waste of time they will work loose in short order (don't ask how I know), use the grade "C" interference locknuts, with grade 8 bolts, Fastenal is a good supplier for that hardware.
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Good info!!!maccus said:
Suggestion: wouldn't it be practical to be able to order the correct hardware in form of a kit (x8 bolts/nuts) from suppliers like OD Iron .... ? (At least for the ones living to far away...) Hey Mike.....!?
MDSA
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7 loose driveshaft bolts
And one missing!
Just greased my Deuce getting ready for the NC rally this weekend and found 7 loose bolts and one missing bolt on my short shaft. That explains the strange feel i have been getting from my Deuce.
Thanx for a very useful thread.
And a reminder to check that short shaft.
And one missing!
Just greased my Deuce getting ready for the NC rally this weekend and found 7 loose bolts and one missing bolt on my short shaft. That explains the strange feel i have been getting from my Deuce.
Thanx for a very useful thread.
And a reminder to check that short shaft.