Loosening "Frozen" Nuts and Bolts - Three Tricks

[Bravo2Uniform]

My M38A1 has a severe case of rust. I have broken several screws and bolts and cut many off using my grinder and a cut off wheel. I want to share with three tricks I just learned. I'm sure a lot of you already know this, but it was very enlightening to me. I went, immediately, and tried it and they all work.

1) Heat the bolt with a propane, MAPP gas, or oxy / acetylene torch. The bolt does not have to be red hot. Quench the bolt with cold water until it's cool. Gently begin to turn. Not exactly sure of the physics on this method. Doesn't matter, though, 'cause it works!

2) Heat the bolt the same way. Run a candle (birthday type works well) around the perimeter of the bolt. Allow to cool. Gently turn. In this case, the cooling bolt draws the wax in just like a copper pipe draws in solder and the wax serves as a lubricant.

3) The final method is using a penetrating oil. I have had zero luck with PB Blaster on my build so far. However, the store bought kinds are not as good as home made. In this case, you will mix acetone with ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) in a 50:50 ratio. I did a little research and found the following information from a machinist magazine:

Penetrating Oil .......... Average load*
None .........................516 pounds
WD-40 .......................238 pounds
PB Blaster .................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................106 pounds
*ATF-Acetone mix........53 pounds

Kroil is the most expensive here in Georgia. The home brew reduced the force needed by Kroil by 50%.

 

[swbradley1]

This has been posted before and that is why Gimpy and I use ATF-Acetone around my barn for just about everything. We keep a bottle mixed on the workbench ready to go.

 

[swbradley1]

Oh yeah, #1 I am pretty sure because when the metal expands and contracts it breaks whatever is holding it like rust.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

This has been posted before ...

Sorry for the double post.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Oh yeah, #1 I am pretty sure because when the metal expands and contracts it breaks whatever is holding it like rust.

Dang, I'll bet that's it. I never thought of that!

Thanks, that was bugging me.

 

[rumplecat]

First time I have seen it, Thanks! I still like Kroil but I am willing to try something different!

 

[royalflush55]

And yes #2 will work if done properly. I have used this trick a lot when others fail.

 

[Warthog]

This has been posted before and that is why Gimpy and I use ATF-Acetone around my barn for just about everything. We keep a bottle mixed on the workbench ready to go.

Even for Hornets?

 

[armytruck63]

 

[gringeltaube]

Even for Hornets?

 

[KansasBobcat]

I had liquid nitrogen in my office and it worked ok on frozen bolts.

 

[swbradley1]

Very funny about the hornets.........

 

[Saberr]

LoL i love armytrucks torch. Bravo, a really easy trick is to use a torch (i like propane), Heat till read hot, let it cool for about 4 min, then squirt some liquid wrench on it and let it sit for another 5 min. Also if you can, heat both ends of the bolts. For example the floor and body bolts you usually have access from both sides. Since your on an m38a1, don't worry about the paint. I've ran it soo hot, that all the paint bubbled, scraped it and the original primer looks like new. Remember the old primer has lead in it, and that takes ALOT of direct heat to mess up. Only trick is to let the bolt cool a bit before putting a lub on or it evaporates. The more oily lub, like your last one is better. Rinse and repeat as necessary. I had to heat by brake drums front locking bolts up 3 times, then they just turned like bran new. Been where your at and half my floor pan bolts are broke or griound off, then i learned. My most important tools are #1 wrench, #2 propane torch. Also another nice trick is to back bolt out as much as possible, when it gets tough, instead of using more pressure, then heat it up, back it out again when cooled. Nice tip, if broke bolt inside, cut or grind bolt stub, tap top to indent. Then drill with a bit 3/4 size of bolt and go all the way though. Use a torch and heat the broken stud, and let cool. When cool use vice grips and turn the stud.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Thanks, Saberr, those are some details that I had not hashed out yet, like letting cool for 4 min. and then adding lubricant. I also had not figured out how to do one with a nut on it. I have to remove the structural member that supports the xmission / xfer case and that's the trick I need to use.

Thanks again, I appreciate any words of wisdom. This is expensive as it is and adding the cost of errors makes it even more painful.

 

[48cj2a]

When I was working on my 48 CJ-2A frame bolts I mig welded a nut on the majority of the broken bolts, even the ones flush with the frame surface and they backed right out.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Good idea on the MIG welding. I am just now learning to MIG and that doesn't seem too complicated. Let me go to YouTube which is my welding teacher, and study up on it.

 

[Bravo2Uniform]

Good idea on the nitrogen, too...and I can freeze off this wart on my thumb at the same time!

 

[m16ty]

Another thing heating a bolt red hot will do is burn the rust out. You can't hardly beat heat if you can get it to the right spot, which is sometimes difficult if a bolt is broken off flush or something. You've also got to be careful with heat around cast iron as it can crack on you.

Another thing is be careful heating wheel nuts. I've done it many times and know the risk but there are videos floating around showing a heated wheel exploding. What I do is keep plenty of water on the part of the wheel that contacts the tire (the rim) to make sure it never gets too hot to touch.