Lost electrical power - Follow up

[carter262]

I was driving to my dad's in my 1984 M1009, original electrical system, and the radio began cutting out, loss of power, then cut back on. Then the low coolant light began to flicker on then off. Next the Gen 1 light would come on for a second and then go off. The Gen 1 light only did this twice. Volt meter was showing charging in the green where it is supposed to be. Pulled into Dad's driveway and the truck died. Now there is no power when you cut the key on. No lights cycle, no blower fan going, no radio, no starter turning over.

Checked all fuses: none blown.
Checked the starter relay under dash (doghead upgrade): if i hold a screwdriver between the two post the truck turns over and no start.
Checked battery cables: all tight
All wires to generators tight.
Headlights still work.

I am at a loss and stuck 25 miles from home, any ideas?

 

[Assel]

Are your batteries both in good condition? can you be sure your batterie cables are good, they can rot inside and you wont notice from the outside. Are your mass contacts good?

you could try to hook a slave cable from the engine block to the - of your front batterie. Of course with no elektric power the truck wont run or start, the shutoff solenoid on the IP wont let diesel flow to the pump (its the pink wire in front of your air-cleaner)

to me this sounds like a bad ground..or is your ignition switch totally worn out? I think my headlights do work without the key in.

 

[cucvrus]

Does the vehicle have bolt on battery terminal ends. That will do it.

 

[carter262]

Are your batteries both in good condition? can you be sure your batterie cables are good, they can rot inside and you wont notice from the outside. Are your mass contacts good?

you could try to hook a slave cable from the engine block to the - of your front batterie. Of course with no elektric power the truck wont run or start, the shutoff solenoid on the IP wont let diesel flow to the pump (its the pink wire in front of your air-cleaner)

to me this sounds like a bad ground..or is your ignition switch totally worn out? I think my headlights do work without the key in.

Batteries are good. Cables are a few years old not the originals. Ignition switch was changed out APPROX 4 years ago. Battery cables are not bolt on ones.

 

[SgtHaas]

Check your pos. & neg. distribution point on the firewall. Clean and tighten up and if possible add di-electric to it . I have had similar experiences.

 

[royalflush55]

I would check all fusible links. Sounds like it could be one that connects to the 12 volt diamond in the middle of the firewall.

 

[Warthog]

While you say the batteries are good have you actually tested them today? I have seen brand new batteries fail.

 

[royalflush55]

Did this M1009 ever get back on the road again? Any updates?

 

[carter262]

While you say the batteries are good have you actually tested them today? I have seen brand new batteries fail.

I understand your concern. I did load test them and they were good.

 

[ralbelt]

Did you find out what the original problem was ?

 

[carter262]

Did this M1009 ever get back on the road again? Any updates?

Yea, I'm sorry about that. I did get her fixed and should of posted an update. I promise to be better next time.

Here is what I found and this was by pure accident. The small block, 12 volt diamond, on the fire wall that is located at the glow plug solenoid had a wire that had separated from the ring connector that was attached to it. The wire was attached to the left stud, was red with orange fusible link, and runs from the 12 volt diamond to the left bottom quadrant of the fuse block (in engine compartment).

When it came apart the wire did not fall down and was still touching the ring connector which kept the truck running. When I would hit a bump or step on the throttle I believe it would make the wire move and loose contact, this is what was causing the lights to flicker. When the wire made contact again everything went back to normal. When the wire was not making contact nothing worked when you turned the key, so my strong powers of deduction tell me that that red wire feeds the ignition switch and dash.

Like I said I found it by accident. I tested everything I could think of so I moved on to wiring. I turned key into on position and started checking wiring under the hood. While I was checking the wires going into the fuse block power came on. I started the truck and shut it off. I then put the key back in the on position and started looking the exact problem wire figuring I was going to be replacing a wire feeding the fuse block. As I was wiggling individual wires trying to get the power to cut off again to identify the problem wire I noticed the wire fall out of the corner of my eye and the power went out. Hummm, I believe I found it.

So that was the long version of a short story. Thanks for the help and advise!

 

[frank8003]

Yea, I'm sorry about that. I did get her fixed and should of posted an update. I promise to be better next time. ~So that was the long version of a short story. Thanks for the help and advise!

and my favorite "Do or Do Not, there is no try" ~ Yoda

Anyhow, goto the March 2016 Hotrod magazine page 104.
It contains the best advice about electrical connections in our old vehicles.
Especially page 108. I can't post others work.

 

[royalflush55]

Yea, I'm sorry about that. I did get her fixed and should of posted an update. I promise to be better next time.

Here is what I found and this was by pure accident. The small block on the fire wall that is located at the glow plug solenoid had a wire that had separated from the ring connector that was attached to it. The wire was attached to the left stud, was red with orange fusible link, and runs from this block to the left bottom quadrant of the fuse block (in engine compartment).

When it came apart the wire did not fall down and was still touching the ring connector which kept the truck running. When I would hit a bump or step on the throttle I believe it would make the wire move and loose contact, this is what was causing the lights to flicker. When the wire made contact again everything went back to normal. When the wire was not making contact nothing worked when you turned the key, so my strong powers of deduction tell me that that red wire feeds the ignition switch and dash.

Like I said I found it by accident. I tested everything I could think of so I moved on to wiring. I turned key into on position and started checking wiring under the hood. While I was checking the wires going into the fuse block power came on. I started the truck and shut it off. I then put the key back in the on position and started looking the exact problem wire figuring I was going to be replacing a wire feeding the fuse block. As I was wiggling individual wires trying to get the power to cut off again to identify the problem wire I noticed the wire fall out of the corner of my eye and the power went out. Hummm, I believe I found it.

So that was the long version of a short story. Thanks for the help and advise!

Ok, good. This is the 12 volt diamond in the middle of the firewall I was talking about!

 

[carter262]

Ok, good. This is the 12 volt diamond in the middle of the firewall I was talking about!

Good call. Thanks for the help

 

[kcbbqguru]

I would check all fusible links. Sounds like it could be one that connects to the 12 volt diamond in the middle of the firewall.

do you have a pic of the 12 volt diamond? I had kind of the same problem, but it happened when I turned the key to start, it turned over one time, then nothing lost all power to dash?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

There's one here. Second picture.