Low hour M803A Fuel leak, Cover suggestion

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

NOTE: copper and diesel are not friendly.

Start here in this thread.
MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts | SteelSoldiers

List all the different filter # and such.

Since it is such a low hour unit, you should probably stay with a break-in oil for at least 100 hours. Change the oil, and filter. That is a long time for oil to collect condensation. Besides, its not like it takes 5 gallons of oil. Quick link about the oil in the 2nd post.

The 2nd post has quick links to stuff you will need to know.
The 3rd post has the links to all the manuals you will want.

There are different types of fuel lines.
Return fuel line = very low pressure return line = rubber line wrapped with braided cloth. These get old and start weeping. There is a quick link about that in the 2nd post.
Fuel lines = the higher pressure lines off the manifold, they are also discussed in the return fuel line quick link.

Fuel tank drain well nut = Infamous well nut = learn where and what it is. Also a quick link to the better Ultimate well nut too quick links.

 

[4WD]

Thanks Mike...What is a type break in oil.. brand, class and weight.

To anyone. Purchased the 1/8" fuel line from oreilly. They didn't have clamps that small in stock. Any suggestions on a part # and brand for clamps. Line measures od 0.3". Zip ties would work temp as it low p. # 4 radiator clamps would work but there cranked almost to limit and get oblong shape.

 

[Light in the Dark]

John Deere makes a nice break in oil: https://www.greenpartstore.com/John...ecial-Purpose-Engine-Oil-TY26661-TY26663.html

For the return line, no clamps are needed. Just use zip ties, as its a very low pressure return.

 

[4WD]

OK Thanks

 

[Ray70]

On the O'riley 1/8" line, if you are talking about the 1/8" high pressure fuel line it works but is very difficult to get over the original T-fittings.
Use a dab of grease on the fittings to help. The original line was 3.5mm which is slightly larger than 1/8"
If you are replacing the T-fittings with new 1/8" ones it will be easier.
DO NOT use vacuum hose from Oriley's. It will swell up and start leaking in under a week.... ask how I know!

 

[Light in the Dark]

What brand is that hose you don't recommend Ray? I haven't seen any issue with the Gates safety stripe (Nitrile Rubber). It is slightly undersized compared to whats there, but a little grease and possibly a little work with a screw driver at the opening and it goes on pretty well (helps when its warmed up too).

 

[Ray70]

I'll have to take a look next time I'm there.... probably later today
I use them for 95% of my automotive parts ( wife owns a car dealership and I'm the Free mechanic )
The Wholesale guys at my local store are great, known them since I was like 14.
It was not safety stripe if I recall, I think it was just unmarked 5/32" vacuum line.
I bought both the 1/8" Gates white stripe braided high pressure line and whatever 5/32" line I grabbed off the spool and tried both.
Up until then I had always used Continental 3.5mm cloth covered diesel hose.
The 5/32 went on nice where as the 1/8 braid was pretty tough.
Within a week it was leaking and I found the 5/32 had swollen up to the point that it was falling off the injectors ( which are slightly smaller than the OEM T-fittings. Luckily I had enough 1/8 pressure line left to replace the vacuum line.
But to answer your question, it was NOT Gates safety stripe, but I do believe it was probably another Gates product as I think all their line is made by Gates.
Probably not meant to direct fuel or oil contact

 

[4WD]

I'm working on the low pressure return line. The line I'm intending to use and have purchased is the Gates Safety Stripe II Nitrile rubber.

Link to Oreilly part

Intending to leave return rail and down lines to injectors as is. Just replacing from return rail back to tank. Haven't begun to fit it on rail or tank fitting.

 

[Daybreak]

Proper size 3.5mm or the 1/8" fuel return line does not need any clamps.
All the fittings have hose barbs. The T fittings at the top all are hose barbed. Be very careful removing the old return lines. If you use a razor blades, start slowly slicing the outer part, until you can pull it off the T's.

You will understand not needing clamps when you struggle to get the new line on the barbed fittings.

Go to the thread I mentioned. It is the 2nd post which has quick links... " Break-In Oil Low hour units here "

 

[Jeff H]

I also just purchased an MEP-803A and my return line is weeping as well right at the last Tee as it returns to the tank. Before I start I would like to have new Tees in hand in case I break them. Has anyone replaced them with stainless steel? Something like this https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=90866

 

[Light in the Dark]

They look like they will work. Expensive, but should never fail. I bought a bag of 50 plastic Ts from the same place for short money. https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=104481

 

[4WD]

I finally gettting round to replace return fuel line. Removed top exterior engine cover no real problem there.

Still confused about how to get to return line going into tank.

I hope that its accessible by removing exterior cover on front/outside of tank below the fuel cap. That looks pretty easy. . Looking at the engine side looks like I'd have to remove both side panels. Looks like a bear of a job.

Also are fuel clamps needed? Looking at other threads it seems no clamps were used but maybe I'm missing something.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If you remove the rear cover hiding the tank, it will make sense to you. It goes to a barbed fitting and down into the fuel. Just use some small zip ties on all the return line sections at you will be fine.

 

[4WD]

"If you remove the rear cover hiding the tank"

Are you referring to the panel on the outside of the gen set or on the interior panel adjacent to the engine, ie in the engine compartment? Thanks

Edit... Found a picture in another thread and it appears the exterior panel is what I need to remove. Hallelujah I think. Appears much easier to remove.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yes the exterior panel. Easy to pull.

 

[Guyfang]

I dont mean to be a nag, but perhaps looking at these documents might help. Always inform your self about a maintenance task before attempting it. There are a few more TM's in the TM forum to down load. But these should get you started.

 

[4WD]

Guyfang, I downloaded those manuals back when I purchased this generator. There are some question that the manuals don't answer.

 

[Guyfang]

True. But they will help you to find the answers. Just being a nag, thats all.