LS swap
I have driven a few LS trucks and when you put on a trailer you can feel it. They are good don't get me wrong. My dad owns a salvage yard and we have had them come in with over 200k and still run. The Cummins 12v is a dying beast. You just don't see them on the roads too much anymore. They are getting hard to find. As for the output, you can take a stock 12v 160 or 180 auto or 215 stick, depending on year, and wake them up with a few parts.
My current daily driver is a 97 Dodge 2500 with the stock 180 auto trans pump with a nv4500 swapped in. It puts down 417 at the wheels with a streetable low smoke tune. I did 4k gov springs and ddp stage two injectors. I cant remember the specs on the injectors. I ported the head and O ringed the block because I could. As long as you don't rev over 3k with the stock fuel pump or you have the fuel to feed the P pump with a good fuel system they will run. The P pumps do not like to starve for fuel. It will kill them. My truck has 200k on it, and when I took the head off it still had cross hatch in the cylinders. The 12v makes good low end power and gets good mileage as long as you take it easy.
I have a roller cam 383 small block chevy in my Toyota truck that makes 525 at the flywheel. I wouldn't tow with that truck and it burns fuel. It is good for what it does. It ran 12.52 at 109 in the quarter when I ran it.
If you want a truck to go on road trips haul occasionally and still burn rubber at times, I would go with a 12v. They can be swapped easily without an aftermarket wiring harness. The only bad thing about them is they eat transmissions and turbo lag.
I have a 80 psi 12v out of my retired pulling truck that I'm saving for my 1008 when the 6.2 gives up. I hoping it isn't anytime soon because I have a whole list of things to do before that swap.
I hope this helps. Its also cheaper to buy a rusted out old Dodge than to buy the engine then all the stuff you need to swap it in. You can also P pump a 24 valve pretty easily just don't get a 53 block.