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LS Swap into M1028 LQ9 and 4l80E

Jeepadict

Well-known member
477
706
93
Location
Round Mountain, NV
Rather rude to say other guys are wrong for not doing it your way. There's 50 ways to skin this cat and it's up to the guy who's actually doing the work to decide what's right or wrong. Our only place is to give suggestions as to the different options so a guy can make an educated decision. There are some well known accepted practices and then there's alternatives...this isn't the place to be throwing stones or negativity, there's plenty of that if you want on the FB groups.

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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Yeah I think having a manual switch is hokey. That is fine on a race car not on a street driven vehicle. No different then having to manually switch on a fuel pump or cooling fan rather then wiring it correctly. Can it be done yes, is it right, probably not.

It really has no bearing on your feelings. I didnt kill your family dude. Slight overaction to a comment on poor wiring practice.

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Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Sorry to the OP for ruining your thread.

On the plus side early in the thread people will know that having to push a button after shifting to low range is hokey.





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Ilikemtb999

Active member
700
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
A switch is a pretty simple solution and let’s be honest, most won’t be using low range all that often so having a switch next to the t case lever doesn’t seem all that hokey to me.
 

socalsrt

New member
11
22
3
Location
california
Just a heads up for those looking into the swap.....the ORD engine crossmember does not clear the LS truck oil pan with Dirty Dingo or Tejas mount adapters in combination with energy suspension inserts. It has better clearance than the stock crossmember, however it will still hit the oil pan, even with the engine pushed as far back as possible. I ended up modifying a combination of mounts, adapters, and inserts to make it clear. With this being said, the ORD crossmember is pretty awesome as far as strength is concerned. Tons stronger and beefier than stock. I would recommend it as long as the engine is out for the install. I don't see installation going well with the engine installed.

Also, exhaust is an issue. Most of the aftermarket headers require pretty good 'massaging' to fit the frame. I went through several combinations of headers and manifolds before I got the setup to where it wouldn't hit the frame. I ended up with a set of aftermarket manifolds. Lots quieter and cooler under hood temps. Unfortunately this also caused a few other clearance issues.....starter and bump stop had to be replaced/modified to clear the manifolds. I noted no power difference between three different header sets and two different manifold sets....

This being said, every swap is different...especially with little details. This was just my experience with my truck and an LQ4. For what its worth I did tons of research on several boards/websites/groups before starting and I believe there are some clearance issues with the K30 frames most of these 'sources' don't have experience with. Seemed like the vast majority of the swaps discussed were 1/2 ton 2wd trucks. I have a good running LQ4/4l80E/NP208 swap with around 10,000 miles on it. If anyone has any questions, shoot me a note and I will answer what I can.

Oh yeah, the swap is totally worth it! If contemplating it....do it! Nothing like doubling your power figures and getting better mileage.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
My friend's customer had some LS square body swap headers. Driver side landed directly where the shift linkage goes. Passenger side tube hit the floorboard. Both O2 bungs wouldnt allow for a sensor to actually be installed before hitting something. Not sure how much variance could possibly be in a production of trucks for this to fit one and not the other.

Its like they were for something completely different except they arent.

Congrats on your LS. Sure the 6.2 has character and is dirt simple but it sucks in every other regard. When you actually want your CUCV to be usable, its really the easiest and cheapest way to get there.

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TShively

New member
13
1
3
Location
E.Oregon
I have done this swap, used a 2wd transmission and cut output shaft to correct length, with a clocking ring, then Used a NP 241 T-case with a sye. All works very well. Can post pics if needed
 

TheOrigin

New member
15
21
3
Location
North Carolina
Long time since I've updated this thread. Got a fair amount done on the truck but it's still.not driving. I switched to a 4L80E transmission because I got a good deal on a used core to rebuild. After getting mine done and all the parts to mate an NP205 to it, I would go the 2wd 4L80 route. I had to install a tone ring on the rear planetary housing, and the adaptor for the 4wd transmission is getting harder to find since it's a bit more of a hassle to build for this application. 2wd transmissions have all the proper VSS stuff already.

My FItech harness is all installed. I will be sending my t case out soon to be machined for the oversized bearing needed for the input shift (sending to ORD).

I installed ORD 4" Rear shackle flip, front HD springs, Bilstein shocks, and full crossover steering and a 2wd steering box. Steering box brace, Rear mounted 31gal blazer tank and OEM cross members I got from a suburban I parted out. Full Killmat in the cab floor. American Autowire full chassis wiring kit I will be installing very soon. I got some 37" BFG HMMWV tires and dual beadlocks. I cut and installed new Trailworthy Fab stamped centers, to get the offset correct for the truck without adaptors. Also installed their light weight PVC beadlock rings inside to get rid of the big heavy run flat stuff. Tilt steering column. S250 radio box for storage but will eventually make a camper out of it. Built a custom rear bumper out of a civilian bumper and a bent CUCV bumper I got a good deal on.

Lots of other little stuff waiting to go on and I should have time to get back at it soon. Will update with more pics.

Added: exhaust manifolds for a 2010 Era Camaro 6.2 LS engine fit inside the frame rails very well in the square body trucks. They can be found for cheap too. I got some for $60. Not really a big power gain from good OEM manifolds vs headers, even long tunes on a motor unless it's really heavily modified. Especially if you have to smash them to get them to fit.
 

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Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
Long time since I've updated this thread. Got a fair amount done on the truck but it's still.not driving. I switched to a 4L80E transmission because I got a good deal on a used core to rebuild. After getting mine done and all the parts to mate an NP205 to it, I would go the 2wd 4L80 route. I had to install a tone ring on the rear planetary housing, and the adaptor for the 4wd transmission is getting harder to find since it's a bit more of a hassle to build for this application. 2wd transmissions have all the proper VSS stuff already.

My FItech harness is all installed. I will be sending my t case out soon to be machined for the oversized bearing needed for the input shift (sending to ORD).

I installed ORD 4" Rear shackle flip, front HD springs, Bilstein shocks, and full crossover steering and a 2wd steering box. Steering box brace, Rear mounted 31gal blazer tank and OEM cross members I got from a suburban I parted out. Full Killmat in the cab floor. American Autowire full chassis wiring kit I will be installing very soon. I got some 37" BFG HMMWV tires and dual beadlocks. I cut and installed new Trailworthy Fab stamped centers, to get the offset correct for the truck without adaptors. Also installed their light weight PVC beadlock rings inside to get rid of the big heavy run flat stuff. Tilt steering column. S250 radio box for storage but will eventually make a camper out of it. Built a custom rear bumper out of a civilian bumper and a bent CUCV bumper I got a good deal on.

Lots of other little stuff waiting to go on and I should have time to get back at it soon. Will update with more pics.
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