Lieutenant Dan
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Nope but ya never know.... I got a 4" stack this weekend should be plenty to do the Snorkel and exhaust.
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LT. Dan M35a2 Modification Thread
- Thread starter Lieutenant Dan
- Start date
Jeepsinker
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Glad to see you found the issue. We had the same issue with another member's truck at the rally this weekend.
skinnyR1
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So Dan, I see your comments in the water injection thread. What and how are you planning on setting that up?
I am thinking about getting a 5 gallon water can mounted in the jerry can holder on the drivers door, and tap into that for the water storage. Drop an electric pump like what you got right into the jerry can, and then plumb in the nozzle where ever that needs to go. I guess I would need a solenoid to activate when a certain boost is reached to inject the water?
The pump would be on a switch, so that it doesn't always have to be running. Something like that, I guess. The circuit would allow activation of the solenoid which in turn would allow activation of the pump whenever the solenoid is open.
I am thinking about getting a 5 gallon water can mounted in the jerry can holder on the drivers door, and tap into that for the water storage. Drop an electric pump like what you got right into the jerry can, and then plumb in the nozzle where ever that needs to go. I guess I would need a solenoid to activate when a certain boost is reached to inject the water?
The pump would be on a switch, so that it doesn't always have to be running. Something like that, I guess. The circuit would allow activation of the solenoid which in turn would allow activation of the pump whenever the solenoid is open.
Lieutenant Dan
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Ok yeah I'm going to start posting that stuff in this thread.
I'm going with a 2 stage injection system. I got a 24v pump that puts out 100 psi factory preset and can be adjusted up and down. The pump is a on demand pump so it will run till it reaches 100 psi then shut itself off. That will be wired in its own circuit with a switch and a led indicator to tell me when it's running. So the switch board will have 4 indicators and 4 switches. One will be a master switch for the valves ones switch for the pump and two switches for the valves. The valves will be 12v valves rated for 150 psi. The power from the switches will go to the pressure switches on the intake elbow. I'm not sure where I'll be setting them but I'm going to start around 8 psi for the 1st stage and small nozzle and probably 15 psi for the second stage and the larger nozzle. Now I will have complete control over both stages. I can run just the 1st stage or just the 2nd stage or both or none at all. The only other thing I could do would be get a controller to decided how hard the spray would come in and adjustable on the fly but I have no desire in that.
I will be running a 16 gallon tank in the bed or under the rear seats.
I'm going with a 2 stage injection system. I got a 24v pump that puts out 100 psi factory preset and can be adjusted up and down. The pump is a on demand pump so it will run till it reaches 100 psi then shut itself off. That will be wired in its own circuit with a switch and a led indicator to tell me when it's running. So the switch board will have 4 indicators and 4 switches. One will be a master switch for the valves ones switch for the pump and two switches for the valves. The valves will be 12v valves rated for 150 psi. The power from the switches will go to the pressure switches on the intake elbow. I'm not sure where I'll be setting them but I'm going to start around 8 psi for the 1st stage and small nozzle and probably 15 psi for the second stage and the larger nozzle. Now I will have complete control over both stages. I can run just the 1st stage or just the 2nd stage or both or none at all. The only other thing I could do would be get a controller to decided how hard the spray would come in and adjustable on the fly but I have no desire in that.
I will be running a 16 gallon tank in the bed or under the rear seats.
Lieutenant Dan
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Talking to the other guy on here that sells the kit (he was very helpful too) says the amount of fuel and boost he is running would never be achievable without water injection. I think he said he was running like 28 lbs of boost at around 1100° egt.
The only thing I'm undecided about us nozzles. I think I might spend a little more and get good nozzles instead of the McMaster Carr nozzles. Watching videos on YouTube and reading tons of diesel forums you can see a definite difference in spray pattern and atomization from the McMaster Carr nozzles to the good nozzles.
The only thing I'm undecided about us nozzles. I think I might spend a little more and get good nozzles instead of the McMaster Carr nozzles. Watching videos on YouTube and reading tons of diesel forums you can see a definite difference in spray pattern and atomization from the McMaster Carr nozzles to the good nozzles.
whiskey357
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iffn yu can see about takeing the red to a shop or see about buying a used one ....this can take care of a lot of problems down the road ...Know this one been there and spent that.....heck of hit on the money pocket...But new hoses belts and rad for the beast......she runs like a raped ape.....and that's in 1st heheheheh.......going strong man good job to date.....nice about welding ...I just start things on fire heheheh
Lieutenant Dan
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Actually I was wrong it will only be 3 switches one for pump and for each valve and the 4th light will be a tank low light.....
Lieutenant Dan
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Rust Repair
The weekend is here!!!!! So the rust repair begins!!!!
OK so first off I took a ruler and marked out the part I wanted to cut out. Now to make your job as easy as possible cut square and straight as possible. Next using steady hands cut slowly and stay in your marks. After you get the outside peeled off I found the main structure was rotted too so I cut the out. I rebuilt everything with 3/16" steel and cut out all the rot. Next clean all the paint and rust from your weld area. Now start measuring for you patch. I cut pieces to exactly fit into the areas I cut out. Next welded in the inside cross member repair. I left it cool for about 20 minutes and hit it all with primer. Then I made a template out of cardboard and cut out my sheet. A tip here is to cut oversize and fit the patch as tight as possible. It makes welding this thin metal much easier. Next fit it, grind here bend there. Take your time. Once you have to good and tight tack it in multiple places to hold it. Make sure you prime the back of the panel before you start welding if you can't get to it after the patch is in. Then start welding. Move around alot.... I welded about a half inch then moved. I also only welded tacks all around. The material is to thin and warps to quickly to weld in beads or stitches. You can watch your heat move through the shiny part of the metal so try to keep it spread out. Once welded grind it smooth but be careful here too. The material is thing and you will grind right through it. I like flap disks a hard disk is definitely not a good choice for this.
A few tips..... a good helmet goes along way. I do have a harbor freight helmet but for stuff like this I used my miller digital elite. That helmet cost $350 but is worth every penny. I use it at work. Also I'm a certified welder so this is easy to me. If you not comfortable practice and watch some videos on youtube. There is many different techniques and movements when welding. It is very easy to burn through on thin sheet metal.
Overall I'm happy with the way if turned out. It's not a show quality job but for the deuce it's good enough. I didn't get to crazy with imperfections cause it will get covered up with the thicker behr paint. So any way this was the easy side.... the harder side is tomorrow.
The weekend is here!!!!! So the rust repair begins!!!!
OK so first off I took a ruler and marked out the part I wanted to cut out. Now to make your job as easy as possible cut square and straight as possible. Next using steady hands cut slowly and stay in your marks. After you get the outside peeled off I found the main structure was rotted too so I cut the out. I rebuilt everything with 3/16" steel and cut out all the rot. Next clean all the paint and rust from your weld area. Now start measuring for you patch. I cut pieces to exactly fit into the areas I cut out. Next welded in the inside cross member repair. I left it cool for about 20 minutes and hit it all with primer. Then I made a template out of cardboard and cut out my sheet. A tip here is to cut oversize and fit the patch as tight as possible. It makes welding this thin metal much easier. Next fit it, grind here bend there. Take your time. Once you have to good and tight tack it in multiple places to hold it. Make sure you prime the back of the panel before you start welding if you can't get to it after the patch is in. Then start welding. Move around alot.... I welded about a half inch then moved. I also only welded tacks all around. The material is to thin and warps to quickly to weld in beads or stitches. You can watch your heat move through the shiny part of the metal so try to keep it spread out. Once welded grind it smooth but be careful here too. The material is thing and you will grind right through it. I like flap disks a hard disk is definitely not a good choice for this.
A few tips..... a good helmet goes along way. I do have a harbor freight helmet but for stuff like this I used my miller digital elite. That helmet cost $350 but is worth every penny. I use it at work. Also I'm a certified welder so this is easy to me. If you not comfortable practice and watch some videos on youtube. There is many different techniques and movements when welding. It is very easy to burn through on thin sheet metal.
Overall I'm happy with the way if turned out. It's not a show quality job but for the deuce it's good enough. I didn't get to crazy with imperfections cause it will get covered up with the thicker behr paint. So any way this was the easy side.... the harder side is tomorrow.
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Lieutenant Dan
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This was all done with my Dewalt grinder send my Lincoln 140 amp mig welder on 110v. I love my little welder and it's good up to 5/16 to 3/8 material with multiple passes. 1/4 and thinner is good for single passes you just have to watch the duty cycle. I paid close to $600 for this setup with bottle. I'm using 0.030" bare wire and 98/2 argon/co2 mix.
Here's also a before and after side by side.
Here's also a before and after side by side.
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skinnyR1
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Very helpful write up. So am I going to be able to do the same with 100% co2? What gauge steel do you use?
So what is in thise rockers that leads to this common issue? My rust is further back, only underneath. It looks like a sandwich of metal layers in there. Where does the water get in?
So what is in thise rockers that leads to this common issue? My rust is further back, only underneath. It looks like a sandwich of metal layers in there. Where does the water get in?
Lieutenant Dan
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The thickness I measured was .055". I used .049" sheet. I think they rot out because the water can get in where ever it wants too. The inside is completely open and it just collects and holds the water. Well find out tomorrow when I cut the rocker out of the passenger side.... yes co2 100% is fine. That's what we used in school cause its cheap. I just get the mix from work so that's what I use.
After i get the rust repair done I'm going to use a trick i was told by an old timer who has been doing body work for 40 years. Take some roofing tar and mix it with motor oil to thin it a bit. Then spray or brush on where ever you can get it inside the body panels. That's what I'm going to do to prevent further problems
After i get the rust repair done I'm going to use a trick i was told by an old timer who has been doing body work for 40 years. Take some roofing tar and mix it with motor oil to thin it a bit. Then spray or brush on where ever you can get it inside the body panels. That's what I'm going to do to prevent further problems
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whiskey357
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Great work on welding it back together ....I take to someone as I like to burn things with different things............welding is not my fortta.......looking good man .......So when is the big day for a really good test drive?????.......Got my m35a2 up and ready for summer ...as Spring here sucks the big one....cold and wet....lawn is loking good thought hehehehe......keep the pics comeing man ...again nice job...
Lieutenant Dan
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Oh its going to be awhile. I'm hoping to have the front end on this weekend and painted underneath and the grill painted. Then one that's done the extended cab starts. I'm hoping to have it all done by the end of June beginning of July hopefully
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If you read this thread; or this one, or maybe this... you'll find the answer to your questions.....
G.
Lieutenant Dan
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Ok here's the other side.... It's all done finally. Fenders are back on but it started to pour so I didn't get pictures
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Lieutenant Dan
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Front end is done! Just needs paint. I got everything mounted and all new dot nylon air lines. I got all the fenders and head light assemblies lined up 10 times better then what they were. I'm so happy! The only thing I have to do is add the auxiliary air tank and plumb that and run a new air line down to the air pack when I rebuild that.
I wanted to add the pa speaker up front somewhere for a pa system and to play music for parades and camping/partying. I got it to fit below the passenger side head light. I think the truck looks much more balanced now with the black out light on the drivers side.
Next remove the doors and start cutting the cab for the extension......
I wanted to add the pa speaker up front somewhere for a pa system and to play music for parades and camping/partying. I got it to fit below the passenger side head light. I think the truck looks much more balanced now with the black out light on the drivers side.
Next remove the doors and start cutting the cab for the extension......
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ivbeenrokd
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Looking great!
whiskey357
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Cool looking today and the next question is how are you doing....Truck looks great........
HanksDeuce
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Looking great! Where did you purchase the DOT air lines and fittings?