M1007 - CUCV Suburban Clone Build Thread

[Another Ahab]

I learned another new thing recently. Like most learning experiences, it was painful. Just my wallet this time, but painful still.
I was searching for the wrong name. The part was there right in front of me on every search. I just didn't know about the terminology change. Hopefully I'm not the only fitting adapter idiot out there and this will help someone else.

That kind of thing can about drive a body to drinking; I'll tell you what:

- Knowing your item IS out there, but not being certain what to call it so you can get to it.

I know it doesn't help you to know, but that pain of yours is familiar to me more than I want to admit.

 

[Barrman]

The hood is now painted. I just have the outsides of the front bumper and grill guard to go. Then I think I will be done paint for this truck. Yeah.

Here is the before shot. I didn't think about an after shot until I had moved everything back inside for the night. Oh well.

 

[Barrman]

I was back at work today with the AN adapters that fit the radiator transmission cooler mentioned above. The fittings did fit. I made sure the combination of straight, 90° and 45° hose ends were still going to work. Then I watched yet another YouTube video of how to cut and fit the hose ends since I have never made any before.

It was super easy. I used duct tape to wrap where I wanted to make a cut. A 1 inch chisel with a short handle sledge cut the -6 braided steel hose with two solid whacks. The hose ends went on so easy I wondered why I haven't been making these lines for years.

I sure will think about it on future projects. Secure infinitely removable ends that won't leak or wear out. Plus hoses that should last longer. Then there is just the cool looks of them.

Back to ball joints and u-joints tomorrow.

 

[The FLU farm]

Secure infinitely removable ends that won't leak or wear out. Plus hoses that should last longer.

There are advantages over basic hose and clamps, for sure. But as a four wheeler I learned not to use braided hose and fancy fittings, because if they do go bad in the field it's easier said than done to fix them. Just my $0.02.

 

[Barrman]

Good point about the field repair. I plan to clamp these things down so they don't rub themselves or anything near them too much.

I just got to work in the M715 with a bed full of parts for the Cowdog. Plus a GEP 6500 with a broken rod end. We are going to see if anything on that engine is worth saving over the near future. Got to have a spare.

 

[The FLU farm]

Good point about the field repair. I plan to clamp these things down so they don't rub themselves or anything near them too much.

I was primarily thinking about a hose, any type, being ripped off by stuff on the trail. When a rock can somehow get up on top of a tire in a wheel well, for example, few things are completely safe, no matter how carefully routed.
Then again, I've had a braided hose fail on a sports car - on the street, obviously. Luckily the fittings were the same in both ends, and the hose just long enough to be looped back, eliminating the oil cooler for the trip home.

 

[Another Ahab]

Then again, I've had a braided hose fail on a sports car - on the street, obviously. Luckily the fittings were the same in both ends, and the hose just long enough to be looped back, eliminating the oil cooler for the trip home.

That was some fast thinking.

 

[The FLU farm]

That was some fast thinking.

Nah. It's more that I'm lazy, and hate walking.

 

[Another Ahab]

That was some fast thinking.

Nah. It's more that I'm lazy, and hate walking.

There's a quote about that, and it's a classic. It's something like:

- "The lazy guy will always show you the best way to get something done" (+/-)

I think it's from the writing of the granddaddy economist of them all, Adam Smith.

If I find it I'll post it here.

 

[Another Ahab]

There's a quote about that, and it's a classic. It's something like:

- "The lazy guy will always show you the best way to get something done" (+/-)

I think it's from the writing of the granddaddy economist of them all, Adam Smith.

If I find it I'll post it here.

This turned out more complicated than I thought. But anyway, here's the story:

http://quoteinvestigator.com/2014/02/26/lazy-job/
​

 

[The FLU farm]

Well, while my dad gave me crap for spending time on parts underneath my Jeep when I built it, saying "Nobody will ever see that", I knew it was there and wanted it done right and looking good.
And being lazy, I try doing things right the first time.
Of course, these days I can barely keep up with maintenance (too many vehicles) which has made me build all kinds of gizmos that ultimately saves me time - and often makes up for my shortcomings as an operator.
While constructing said things, I always think "How can this go wrong?", and then design it to minimize the risk it does.
That doesn't mean building stuff out of overly beefy material, but rather make it as strong as possible with the least amount of material possible. Partially because I'm too lazy to lift heavy stuff, but also due to the fact that it's easier to make a car fast by losing weight than to add power, for example.
For me, the main downside to being lazy is that it leads to sleep deprivation. I lose much sleep trying to figure out easier/better ways to get things done.

 

[Barrman]

Another week has flown by. All front suspension and steering parts have been replaced or rebuilt after inspection and put back together. New u-joints over the entire truck and all drive shafts back in. We also aligned the front tires. I was only 3.5° off on the toe by eyeballing it.

Brakes got filled and bled on Monday with DOT 5/BFS. Yesterday and today had us putting the front fenders and inner fenders on. It almost looks like a complete vehicle again. With the inner fenders on, I can start securing some of the wires that have just been draped over the master cylinder out of the way. Then we can put the battery trays in and make the Banks air filter installation secure instead of just hanging my the hoses.

Which leads me to a dilemma. I want to put the grill, headlight surrounds, bumper and grill guard on. Yet, I won't do that until I have run the engine with coolant in it up to temperature and let the transmission get up to temperature as well. Lots easier to check for and fix any leaks with all that stuff out of the way. I plan to pick up coolant, gear oil and transmission fluid after I get paid this weekend.

I currently have the torque converter not bolted to the flex plate since the transmission is empty. I can't afford the transmission controller until we find out if Colton is getting any college academic scholarships for next fall. We will know all of that by mid May. Does anyone know if a 4L80E can be powered with fluid in it and no electronics hooked up? If so, can it be used to move a vehicle without electronics connected?

Research has shown me the default for a 4L80E is 2nd and reverse. Lots of people have written on truck and LS engine forums about driving home with just second and reverse when bad things have happened to their vehicle. But, there is almost an equal number of people out there that claim just starting the engine without a controller attached with kill the transmission. Anybody with knowledge of these transmissions have advice or input?

No matter the answer to the above, I will proceed at first without the transmission hooked up. I plan to add coolant next week and let it get up to temperature. That will let me check the engine, power steering pump, hydroboost steering fluid side and brake boost side, vacuum pump, alternator and cooling fan operation. Along with any odd noises or vibrations I am sure will be present.

If I feel comfortable with any answers here or that I find researching. I will then put power to the transmission and check all of those hoses for leaks. Getting to back it out of my class, drive 20 feet and put it in a bay without a lift would be great if it will do no harm.

Now that the fenders are installed, I can't reach into the engine bay from the ground without standing on a stool. I need it off the lift after all the fluids have been added and systems tested.

Thanks.

 

[Another Ahab]

I currently have the torque converter not bolted to the flex plate since the transmission is empty. I can't afford the transmission controller until we find out if Colton is getting any college academic scholarships for next fall. We will know all of that by mid May. Does anyone know if a 4L80E can be powered with fluid in it and no electronics hooked up? If so, can it be used to move a vehicle without electronics connected?

It's close to absurd the hoops that kids have to go through now for college applications (though the Common App is a blessing for sure).
Wishing you all good luck with that.

 

[richingalveston]

you can build a manual controller for the 4l80e. I believe it takes 4 toggle switches and the wire harness pigtail that plugs to the tranny. So it can be build out of scrap electrical parts, there are plans somewhere for it on the net. I plan to build one to have handy if mine fails.

I don't know about starting it without a controller. I now what a bad controller program can do unfortunately..

If mine was not mounted in the dash, I would lend It to you while I still have the engine out.

borrow that camera soon and shoot some pics.

Rich

 

[Barrman]

I got the camera for a few minutes this morning, took pictures, downloaded the pictures and took the camera back. Only then to realize it was on some weird setting and they all look really dark. Oh well, dark pictures are better than none.

I got the battery trays in. I didn't even think about the battery trays when I was selecting the best inner fenders to use. Passenger side is the default gas engine battery mount, so all of those inner fenders have the 2 lower support holes drilled. Not so on the drivers side which had a battery there only on diesel trucks. I got the holes drilled in what must have been a gasser inner fender though and both trays secured.

Trying to get the Banks air box bolted to the battery tray and all the hoses back on is almost as bad as working inside of a door. My hands are cut up pretty good this morning. But, all is secure.

I also got the 1992 solid state GMT 400 truck cruise control module bolted on and wired up.

For future reference. A 1987 Suburban uses the engine harness to power the low coolant light. A M1009 harness uses the front light harness to run that wire. I have a M1009 front light harness installed on the 1987 truck. The washer pump power on the 1987 truck is the same wire as the M1009 low coolant light. That is the only conflict I have found so far. I got it rewired and all working. Actually, all the lights that are installed now work. Horn too.

I must have at least 2 or 3 Suburban coolant overflow tanks hiding from me somewhere. I can't find them though and am going to go with a fender mount tank from a GMT 400 over on the drivers side fender next to the washer tank. I haven't put that on yet.

 

[Skinny]

I'm doing a Suburban clone build and just finished mounting the driver side 2nd battery which occupies the same space as the CUCV overflow. The stock 350 overflow was on the passenger side and mounts lower. I think I may just end up using an extra washer bottle on the fender. Post up what you do because I'm in the same boat.

 

[Another Ahab]

I must have at least 2 or 3 Suburban coolant overflow tanks hiding from me somewhere. I can't find them though and am going to go with a fender mount tank from a GMT 400 over on the drivers side fender next to the washer tank. I haven't put that on yet.

They're all waiting until you don't need them, and THAT'S when they'll all come out of hiding.

That's going to be one real sharp Suburban when you're done.

 

[Barrman]

Yes, that over flow is supposed to be under the passenger battery tray. I know I have at least one. Just can't find them. The GMT-400 vehicles had a recovery tank mounted on the passenger fender near the firewall. Depending on year it will either be a regular over flow type tank or actually a pressurized part of the system with a bigger hose and a pressure cap.

I got one with the flimsy plastic cap that fits just about perfect on the drivers inner fender next to the washer bottle. I test fit it after taking the pictures. It will be mounted the next time I do pictures.

 

[Barrman]

I got the $8.00 at O'Reilly's generic overflow bottle. Dorman # DOR 603-001. I put it on the passenger side behind the battery. A few holes already in the fender lined up enough to just bolt it in. Well, actually I took a 1" long 1/4" bolt, fed it from the back side and tightened it up with a nut. Then put the tank on with another nut. A left over head liner trim screw fit in the much smaller hole that lined up on the other mount tab.

That done, I was able to fill it full of coolant for the first time. Almost 7 gallons. The book says 6, but by the time I ran it and let it sit, topped it off and filled the overflow up to the "normal" line. I had just a little of the 7th gallon jug left. HD pump, different than stock hoses, etc... Lots of coolant basically.

So, we fired it up and let it run for 30 minutes this morning. First time to have the belt on and the longest I have had this engine run at once. Power steering leaked out the inputs shaft seal. I think this is the first time it has had pressure to it in at least 6 years. I of course didn't think about that and didn't replace the seal. The leak slowed to a drip every so often and no I think it is done.

Power steering works, brake boost seems to work, alternator charges and the fan blows air. I was pleased. then I saw a stead drip under the engine. I had one of the AN oil cooler lines hand tight. Fixed that. Another leak later in the day was the oil temp sensor needed another 1/2 turn. I didn't put a clamp on the new over flow tank hose and it leaked a hair.

Then, after letting it run some more, sit over lunch and run some more in the afternoon. We had a fuel leak. #8 injector but it looks dry from the top and seems tight with a wrench on it. I will play with it tomorrow when it is cool enough to put my hand down there.

The vacuum pump worked great and all the HVAC functions and controls seem to be doing what they are supposed to.

 

[Another Ahab]

I got the $8.00 at O'Reilly's generic overflow bottle.
The vacuum pump worked great and all the HVAC functions and controls seem to be doing what they are supposed to.

Overall, it sounds like a good day.