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M1008-A1 project begins

1stDeuce

Member
351
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
Well, I love a good buildup, so I figure I'd post some pics and words on my fall M1008 buildup... I bought two M1008's last summer, and painted up and sold the green one last fall. The tan truck had a blown trans, but started and ran good, and had less rust. (It's also missing the rear prop, as I put it on the truck I sold.) Time to start working on the tan one, as I may be in need of a truck from time to time, and I'm likely selling that '06 ext cab Dmax that I have to look for a crew cab truck. (a good excuse to start building anyway!)

Pics as I got it from Lansing... GL had pics of a blazer on the listing, with description of a 1008... I found the blazer listing pics of a truck with odo shot matching the 1008 description. Good gamble paid off, as this truck is the most rust free truck I've seen outta Lansing.
 

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1stDeuce

Member
351
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
My intention is to make the truck a little nicer to drive around, and use as a really capable pickup. There were no A1/A2/A3 versions as far as I know, but this will be some sort of attempt to create what I think one might have been... I'm planning 33's on some Hutchinson wheels I have, a little bit of lift and slightly softer rear springs, probably a winch on the front, as I have an 8274 and bumper looking for a home, and if I keep it long, it'll likely get a turbo from a 6.5L truck too for a little extra power. And of course, a little rust repair and a paint job.

Early this summer, a friend let me have the 700R4 and NP208 out of a 6.2L suburban he had been plowing with when he took it in for scrap. It sat in my garage until early August, when I put it in the truck... note that this is as far as I can get the truck into the garage, but it's enough...

Turns out this swap is easier than people let on. I got the trans/t-case, flexplate, torque converter, and TV cable and bracketry. The only thing I had to fab was a spacer for the short trans mount, as the burb crossmember that went with it was too bent to use. Everything bolts up otherwise. I haven't wired the lockup yet, but I'm planning to just feed it power and let it lock in 3rd and 4th. With 4.56's, this shouldn't be an issue. If it is, I'll put an unlock switch on the dash. :) I have to put a cooler on it yet too.
 

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1stDeuce

Member
351
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
So with a test drive complete, (To the car wash, in front wheel drive as I still don't have a rear driveshaft!) it's time to start some body work... Step one, get the box up and away from the cab so I can fix the cab corners... The bolts come right off with a little heat from a mapp gas torch!! This is going to be nice!

Notice that the inside of the cab is rusting in strange places... Seams around the door openings are beginning to bulge too. Salt air from a prior assignment?? Never seen this before from road salt, and I've seen a lot of older michigan chevy's... Wonder if I should put a hose up in there and wash it, or just fix what I can and move on...

Got the rusty corner ground off, and sandblasted everything rusty, including the rocker, which just had a little surface rust. New corner fitting started, but it got dark on me tonight. You can see the tires and wheels I'm going to run in these shots. They are 2pc wheels with runflat inserts. VERY HEAVY, but they look like they belong on a military truck!!
C
 

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ida34

Well-known member
4,120
33
48
Location
Dexter, MI
Good deal. I started my cucv project last year about now. I still have yet to do the outside here and there. At least it has a floor now. Good luck on your project. If you need panels let me know. I have a few left over.
 

1stDeuce

Member
351
15
18
Location
Farmington, NM
I think the wheels are Hutchinson units. I got them off e-bay a while ago, and painted them OD. I think border patrol was running them on some of the Chevy's and Fords that they had...

They're heavy duty for sure, and we took one apart to see if we could get the tires off... I have no idea how to get the T section beadlock/runflat out of the tire, so we put it back together and I'm going to run them as they are. :)

Hopefully no need for body panels other than the cab corner, Chuck. Excepting the three bolt trangle plate on the front inner fenders, and the corners, everything is rock solid. I suppose I might splurge for new inner fenders, but the repro units are so cheezy... I'd rather blast and patch my current inners.
C
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
I believe they're 16s.


I loved my 700R4 swap, but I wanted more power. So on came the Cummins swap :twisted: My truck is freakin quick now and I get 19 mpg on 39s!

Oh, and the original rear driveshaft will work with the 700R4/208...unless you didn't have one to start with :roll:
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,012
1,808
113
Location
GA Mountains
It's looking good. I still need to locate a set of CUCV bows like the ones you have.
 
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