Ackevor
Member
- 107
- -1
- 16
- Location
- Fairview, PA
I tested the GP system; all wires from relay are providing equal voltage from its dedicated wire to each GP spade. Using the test light method touching the spade of each GP and +12V, each one lit up. On my ohm meter, it gives me 1-1.5 ohms from GP spade to threaded body. The voltage comes on with key in run and goes off when the wait light goes out as it should when connected to GP spade and ground. Under load each GP is getting 8 volts. I thought it was low but just to be sure I used a jumper from the engine ground and hooked up the GP to its dedicated wire and turned the key to run. It got hot and fast so I turned it back off then reinstalled.
I get fuel from the filter bleeder when cranking in a solid stream, so the mechanical lift pump is good. Removing/reinstalling the pink/red wire from the IP makes and audible click when key is in the run position (I unhooked the GP relay for this to keep GP's from burning up).
Just in case the newer filter was clogged I put a new spare in, bled air out until solid fuel came from the bleeder hose, and tried to start again. No luck. It doesn’t even seem like it’s trying to fire, just turns over.
I pulled a plug, disconnected the GP relay and cranked away to see if fuel sprayed out. While it was hard to get a good look from leaning out of the cab, I did not see any evidence of fuel.
I suppose cracking the Injector lines at the injectors with plugs removed and cranking the engine is my next step to see if fuel is getting there? I’m afraid to break the lines; they have probably been secured for 30 years now but look healthy as in not rusted. I will also put a clear line on the IP to check for air. Its just so odd the truck goes from starting good and running great to not at all...
I get fuel from the filter bleeder when cranking in a solid stream, so the mechanical lift pump is good. Removing/reinstalling the pink/red wire from the IP makes and audible click when key is in the run position (I unhooked the GP relay for this to keep GP's from burning up).
Just in case the newer filter was clogged I put a new spare in, bled air out until solid fuel came from the bleeder hose, and tried to start again. No luck. It doesn’t even seem like it’s trying to fire, just turns over.
I pulled a plug, disconnected the GP relay and cranked away to see if fuel sprayed out. While it was hard to get a good look from leaning out of the cab, I did not see any evidence of fuel.
I suppose cracking the Injector lines at the injectors with plugs removed and cranking the engine is my next step to see if fuel is getting there? I’m afraid to break the lines; they have probably been secured for 30 years now but look healthy as in not rusted. I will also put a clear line on the IP to check for air. Its just so odd the truck goes from starting good and running great to not at all...