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M1008 custom build

H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Hey guys, my former screen name was dieselfreak88M. This is the same guy, new screen name. I got out of the army back in October of 2014. I've been using my post 9/11 GIBill to go to UTI in Dallas. And I e been working at Screamin Lizard customs I. Bedford Texas. We're primarily known for jeeps, but that's about to change.

I've got a pile of parts that are waiting on the arival of my new to me M1008! It was a craigslist find that I drove to Oklahoma to check out. The only thing wrong with it is it needs a tail gate and air filter. The parts I've got for it are; cummins B series 12 valve 5.9, P7100 injection pump, HE351 turbo, G56 transmission, ORD magnum box T-case, ARB air lockers front and rear, disc brake kit for the rear, Ford king pin/high pinion Dana 60 front end, reed racing knuckles, ORD high steer and cross over steering, and 24 bolt military hummer wheels with the military baja claw tires and run flats. This is not going to be a full on thrash install. It's going to be done over time as I'm using works lifts on the weekends to do this. I'll keep every one posted as it progresses. Thanks for y'all's time
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Nothing special to report, much less worth taking pictures of. Stripped the cummins down to bare block and head. Got every thing good and clean. Lots of gunk and carbon. But it's to be expected out of a 300,000 mile truck. I got the engine out of a totaled 95 ram. I junked all the stock gaskets, bearing and rings. I de-burred the block and head. Monday they get sent out to be fire ringed and the head bolt bored enlarged to accept 14mm head studs.
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Sure, you machine a ring around each cylinder on the block and head. When you assemble the engine, you place the head gasket, a fire ring in the grooves you had machines ( a fire ring is a wire ring) 1/2 the ring sits in the bottom groove and the other half goes in the top groove. When the head is torqued down, this aides in sealing off the cylinder. It saves from blowing head gaskets. Diesels have high cylinder pressures when compared to a glass. My selected turbo is capable of sustaining 59-60 psi of boost.
 
CUCVLOVER

CUCVLOVER

Active member
2,352
9
38
Location
west Tennessee, just outside Milan
Cool.
Thank you. So basically its like a shield for the gasket/extra gasket. Wow that's lots of boost. I am glad you didn't try that much boost on a stock 6.2, because I don't think the hood is strong enough to keep the heads inside the engine compartment at that pressure. Hehe
Thanks
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Yea, basically. If the head does lift, it's got about .050" before it unseats the ring. If you look it up on line you can see some images to get a better of what I'm talking about
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Sorry no pictures of the engine. Didn't think any one wanted to see an old, dirty, greasy, filthy cummins. I'm doing this at work, but on my own personal time. So taking pictures aren't on my mind. Also, I have to get the truck/parts to the shop and take it all home when in done for that day. Sorry for the lack of pictures so far. I will be taking more pictures as things go back together.

Today they delivered all my gaskets, seals and bearings; industrial injection fire ring head gasket, extreme studs 14mm head studs, 14mm main studs, Rod studs, industrial injection main girdle, exhaust manifold studs, industrial injection exhaust manifold gaskets, calico dry film coated bearings, total seal diamond coated gapless compression rings, total seal oil control rings.

I was also able to order a Banshee II standalone VGT controler, ATS pulse flow 3 piece T3 exhaust manifold.

I talked to caliber collision and they are going to coat and paint it for me. We are going to pull apart the whole body, take every thing down to metal to make sure we're not dealing with any rust (there are some spots that are questionable). Once that is done and everything is given a clean bill of health, the inside of the cab, fire wall, and bottom of the cab and bed are getting a coating of lizard skin for heat rejection and sound deadening with a bonus of being a rust/corrosion prevention and under carage protection. Everything else is getting CARC in OD Green. The wheels are also getting black powder coated.

I'm really getting excited for this build. My kids are going to help me with it. And The owner of caliber and my work support me 100% in this and both have chipped in by doing things for me at huge discounts or free, and by helping me source parts for really low prices, exc.
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Today the Pistons and wheels are being sent out to jet hot. The wheels are getting jet hot gardian coating in flat black. The piston faces (down to the first compression ring groove) are getting jet hot extreme 2000 ceramic coating and the skirts are getting jet hot slick coat. When the head comes back, it's getting the same ceramic coating, along with the exhaust ports.

Can't do much else until parts start to show up. For now I'm just driving this thing every day. Hope you all have a great day!
 
Skinny

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Sounds like a cool build. My only question is why take a CUCV and pretty much gut it down to a cab/chassis to rebuild it again with new everything? I would think doing that to something a little more desirable by the mass public would make a more valuable truck in the end.
 
H

HETvet

Member
395
7
18
Location
Bedford, texas
Oh, lol. I'm miss understood, I'm sorry sir.

My reasoning for choosing a CUCV for this build is because a HMMWEE is to expensive from the start and it's almost impossible to find an M1114. The truck was $1,200. The cummins was $800 from a wrecking yard. The trans was $300 and front axle was $275, also from said wrecking yard. I had to pull them my self, but for the price, it's worth the labor. $2,575; under what most good condition trucks go for. The turbo I got for $150 off of craigslist. I installed a set of lockers and 4.88:1 gears on a friend of mines jeep for the military wheels and tires, just not assembled. The tires have 90% tread life on them. I've had the engine, trans, and front axle for about 6-6 months. I was holding on to them and looking for a crew cab box body style 1 ton Chevy. But I couldn't beat the price on this truck and I knew it wasn't going to last long so I jumped on the chance. I also know from my previous research they have sought after parts. The Dana 60 front axle could be resold to cover the cost of the turbo. The T400 trans could be resold to cover the cost of the G56 trans, and the 6.2 could be resold to cover every thing but $200-$300 of the cost of the cummins. At that point I'm in to it for $1,500. So by the time it's all said and done, I'll have about $20,000-$25,000 in to a full on build, on the high end. I'm almost positive I can get it done for about 1/2 that. I've got local, veteran friendly business that have taken a personal interest in this build anod are virtually sponsoring the build, and I'm doing all the work and fabrication my self.

some of you might be wondering why ceramic coat the Pistons (down to the first compression ring grove), the cylinder head (what most call the combustion chamber area) the exhaust valves, and the exhaust port. The turbo is a stock VGT turbo off of the 6.7 cummins. The 12 valve cummins is a 5.9. The 6.7 has a higher BSFC and higher EGTs; more exhaust energy. So, in an effort to keep smoke down and have quick spool up, the ceramic coatings rejects combustion temptures from "soaking" in to the metals/components and keeps the heat in the exhaust gasses. This increases available exhaust energy. This energy will exert more force on the turbine wheel. Short version, thermal effecency. This engine is by no means a max effort build. It's just an unrelenting attention to detail
 
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