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M1008 Fuel Hardline routing question

Zen Diesel

New member
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Location
College Park, Maryland
Gentlemen,
I did a quick search of the forum and I couldnt find anything. So my apologies if this has been posted already. I am doing a lift pump replacement and I have the Banks sidewinder kit already installed (it was done poorly) and I am trying to correct some of the problems that the previous installation had because I don't want to do this more than three or four times. I'm having a heck of a time figuring out how this hardline in the passengers side engine compartment is routed prior to turning into soft fuel line. With the banks kit the crossover pipe that feeds into the bottom of the passenger side Bank's manifold as well as the battery cable and the radiator hose all are competing for space around one of the hottest parts of the engine. I have added heat fiberglass heat shield and route the high amp cable to the starter furhter away from the crossover pipe but I'm having a hard time figuring out where this hardline routes.

Initially I thought the hardline routed thought the frame but that puts it rubbing against the hole in the frame and that feels very wrong. I don't want to keep trying to tweak this hardline in different directions trying to find something I'm happy with. I'm leaning to running it under the frame rail but I'm concerned about road debris hitting either the hardline or softline if I drop it that low. Knowing how this line ran originally will help me greatly in deciding what my next steps are going to be here.

The Banks manual while great doesn't show every variation of truck frame and the confluence of the turbo drain, radiator hose, fuel lines, return line and starter wire all in the same spot near a fire breathing turbo makes working on this part of the engine a bloody knuckle nightmare. I am getting the last of of the rusted inner fender bolts out tonight just so I don't have so say so many curse words to get things where I need them.
 

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
Hardline runs up to the passenger side frame rail then goes to rubber. You then have hardline in the engine bay in and out of the engine intake manifold with rubber on the ends.

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Zen Diesel

New member
21
1
3
Location
College Park, Maryland
Hardline runs up to the passenger side frame rail then goes to rubber. You then have hardline in the engine bay in and out of the engine intake manifold with rubber on the ends.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
Correct. I've replaced all the rubber lines on the hard line sections in the engine compartment. I purchased this truck as a non-runner and diagnosed that the anti-siphon valve on the lift pump was bad. I replaced the pump and the heater hose that was being used as fuel line and wound up opening up a can of worms in the process. On top of that the phone I took my original reference photos for how this was routed by the last guy died after it slipped out of my pocket and hit a concrete floor for the final time and then I got sick earlier this year and took a break from working on the truck for a little while so whatever I thought I remembered has been forgotten.

I'm looking for information on how that hardline that runs from underneath the cab on the passenger side to the lift pump routes. Specifically I'm looking for info on how the rubber hose that feeds the inlet side of the lift pump prior to going to the next section of softline to the hardline that traverses up the engine and to the fuel filter. Does the rubber supply line to the inlet of the lift pump route over the truck rail, through the truck rail or under it by default? The end of my hardline that runs along the truck frame makes a hard turn into the engine bay and it looks like it was routed through the frame rail.

The way mine is routed currently it looks like it goes through the truck chassis rails but I'm having a hard time imagining this is correct because it looks like it will rub against the hole in the frame. I'm trying to minimize the amount of times i bend this hardline because I don't want it to work harden on me while I try to un-mess this turbo kit install. I pulled the inner fender out last night and the only thing I can tell is that the factory hard line doesn't look factory bent anymore and I can't made heads or tails of how it originally ran in the technical manuals. It looks like it was bent oddly by the person that put this kit on. Trying to avoid having to buy specialty tools just to bend up new fuel line.

I'm pretty good with searching for info online but I'm drawing a blank on this one and I've spent a lot of time looking at this without any options that I really like. At this point I am thinking I am going to run it back the way it was from the factory and just make sure everything is heat shielded well.
 

Curtisje

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
596
693
93
Location
Okinawa, Japan
Correct. I've replaced all the rubber lines on the hard line sections in the engine compartment. I purchased this truck as a non-runner and diagnosed that the anti-siphon valve on the lift pump was bad. I replaced the pump and the heater hose that was being used as fuel line and wound up opening up a can of worms in the process. On top of that the phone I took my original reference photos for how this was routed by the last guy died after it slipped out of my pocket and hit a concrete floor for the final time and then I got sick earlier this year and took a break from working on the truck for a little while so whatever I thought I remembered has been forgotten.

I'm looking for information on how that hardline that runs from underneath the cab on the passenger side to the lift pump routes. Specifically I'm looking for info on how the rubber hose that feeds the inlet side of the lift pump prior to going to the next section of softline to the hardline that traverses up the engine and to the fuel filter. Does the rubber supply line to the inlet of the lift pump route over the truck rail, through the truck rail or under it by default? The end of my hardline that runs along the truck frame makes a hard turn into the engine bay and it looks like it was routed through the frame rail.

The way mine is routed currently it looks like it goes through the truck chassis rails but I'm having a hard time imagining this is correct because it looks like it will rub against the hole in the frame. I'm trying to minimize the amount of times i bend this hardline because I don't want it to work harden on me while I try to un-mess this turbo kit install. I pulled the inner fender out last night and the only thing I can tell is that the factory hard line doesn't look factory bent anymore and I can't made heads or tails of how it originally ran in the technical manuals. It looks like it was bent oddly by the person that put this kit on. Trying to avoid having to buy specialty tools just to bend up new fuel line.

I'm pretty good with searching for info online but I'm drawing a blank on this one and I've spent a lot of time looking at this without any options that I really like. At this point I am thinking I am going to run it back the way it was from the factory and just make sure everything is heat shielded well.
Check out pdf page 66 of TM9-2320-289-34P.

Maybe these will help too.
20210113_125937.jpg
20210113_125953.jpg
20210113_130108.jpg
I pulled the battery cable out of the way for the last pic, otherwise I have it clamped to the frame to keep it away from the exhaust manifold.
 
Last edited:

Skinny

Well-known member
2,130
488
83
Location
Portsmouth, NH
As long as you aren't near heat or are unsupported you are OK.

You should probably convert from the box filter to a spin on head while you are doing this.

Go from the hard line on the outside of the frame rail to the mechanical lift pump using a metal stub coming out of the pump to the inside of the frame.

Then go from the pump to the filter. This could probably done with all soft.

Then filter to injection pump. This is a hard line in and out of the injection pump snaking in the valley of the engine to the rear, then out coming under the intake manifold.

It doesn't have to be exact as the factory. It's just plumbing.

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