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M1008 leaf spring question

bushhawg73

Member
122
0
16
Location
Columbia, Missouri
I am looking to upgrade my leaf springs on my M1008. I am torn between 4 and 6 inches of lift. I would like to be able to run 37 inch tires. I am considering a ORD shackle flip for the rear.

I would like to know what make of springs you have, how well they have held up (spring sag) and how you would describe the ride quality. Thanks for all the help.
 

pigfoot63

Member
170
0
16
Location
Gainesville, Ga.
I am running 37 inch tires with 4 inch BDS springs in front with 2 inch lift blocks in rear. My 08 sits level. I have BDS shocks on all around and BDS stabilizer in front. I also have AIRLIFT bags on rear axle to use when I haul my loaded trailer. Ride quailty is great, however my front fenders are now customized thanks to a offroad hunting trip on some badly rutted roads
 

rnd-motorsports

New member
905
4
0
Location
Evart,Michigan
Either way you go 4 or 6 inch lift you will get about the same ride. skyjacker Soft- ride and tuff-country and there ez-ride springs that as the name applies will be a better ride . no pun intended as with rough country witch tend to be a bit on the harsh side of the ride. You can run 37 inch tires with a 4 inch lift springs in front and the shackle flip in the rear. do a search here will get several that has done just that! :beer:
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
I run rancho 4 inch lift with a zero rate and a shackle flip with stock springs and a zero rate. I rub bds shocks as well. And hydro assist steering. Check out my thread in my sig line.
 

bushhawg73

Member
122
0
16
Location
Columbia, Missouri
Thanks for the input so far. My original plan called for new front 4 inch springs and the ORD zero rate 1 inch add a leaf. I thought that would give me plenty of clerance to run a 37 tire without trimming the fenders. For the rear I was going to reuse the factory springs and use the ORD shackle flip kit with the ORD 1 inch zero rate add a leaf. The only consideration is the ride quality and the tire clearance. If I need to go with a 6 inch spring in the front I will. My truck rides like a tank right now and I was hoping to get a little softer ride with some new springs. I have been checking out lots of the past builds and I have learned a lot. BDS for example, I did not know they existed until I saw them here. The air bag in the rear is also a good idea. Thanks for the help so far.
 

allrevup

Member
271
2
18
Location
Delaware
Thanks for the input so far. My original plan called for new front 4 inch springs and the ORD zero rate 1 inch add a leaf. I thought that would give me plenty of clerance to run a 37 tire without trimming the fenders. For the rear I was going to reuse the factory springs and use the ORD shackle flip kit with the ORD 1 inch zero rate add a leaf. The only consideration is the ride quality and the tire clearance. If I need to go with a 6 inch spring in the front I will. My truck rides like a tank right now and I was hoping to get a little softer ride with some new springs. I have been checking out lots of the past builds and I have learned a lot. BDS for example, I did not know they existed until I saw them here. The air bag in the rear is also a good idea. Thanks for the help so far.

BDS are awesome springs their 5 1/2" 1 ton front springs and properly match long travel shock will do the tricks. if you need or want the extra inch Zero rate will do that, and or you can ad longer front rear spring shackles (OEM length is 4"-4.5") you can go to 5.25"-5.5" for another easy 1/2' of lift with out drive shaft angle problems, if doing that consider increasing the bolt diameter at the spring bushings to 1/2" if not 9/16" at the front spring hangers and at the springs bushings and make sure you talk to some one about the correct bushings size for your particular brand of springs. BDS for example uses the military spring eye wrap and large bushing. Use grade 8 bolts long enough, so that no part of the bushing or the sleeve is on the weaker bolts treads. Greasable bushings is a way to go, but some fabricators think that it compromises the ultimate strenth of the bolt, so you decide? lots of mileage and wet environments and a little more routine maintenance to purge thing out, go greasable. Other wise Dry environments/ low mileage good synthetic grease during the first installation and you are good for a long wile.
The rear is easy, is just a matter of matching your front spring hight with blocks ,spring and/or reverse shackles. I am not even going into longer springs discussions, that is well cover here and else were.

PS: the original springs were intended for large payloads not comfort or articulation 25+ years ago, springs have chave very little in the last couple centurys...
 
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jimmy-90

New member
344
4
0
Location
Haymarket Va.
It might be a good idea to call the manufacturers teck line of which ever brands of springs that you are considering and ask if they are made from chinese steel. I've heard people say chinese steel is so bad that you cant even get welds to bond to it half the time because it's full of lead and every day another company that you never thought would use something like that switches over to it in order to save a buck. BDS is a good manufacturer to consider because as far as I know they still guarantee their springs for life.
 

scrambled

New member
125
3
0
Location
Marietta,Ga
I use Superlift 6 inch springs in the front with block in the rear. Procomp 3000 shocks on the corners. My 1008 is one of the best riding trucks that I have owned. I am clearing 37 goodyears on recentered hummer wheels.
My truck sits slightly nose high, but the springs should settle to dead level.
 

steved454

New member
123
0
0
Location
brandon/ms
I did a 4 1/2 inch spring lift new shocks and pitman arm. I have 37 inch H1 radials on procomp wheels. I can drive on the road but trimming the front fenders this week. I had the tires on stock 6.75 inch wheels and did not have a problem until I changed to 8.25 inch wheels with 4 inch back spacing.
 
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Iceman3005

Active member
933
97
28
Location
Holt, MI
I had a lifted 79 chevy 3/4 ton, I used skyjacker 8 inch front and rear (no blocks), with 3 inch body lift and had 40 inch boggers, had a better ride than most cars I had been in.
 
Confused-ish with the literature out there...

What is the rear spring length on the 86 M1008/1031/1028's? Front spring length?

Confusion arises from how measured, eye to eye -vs- longset spring leaf length. Not sure how you measure that - wrap the tape measure al the way around the eye at either end (to where the actual end of that single continuous piece of metal is...)?

Want to mount a heavier duty spring pack on the rear from a later model year 1-ton chev that has a 62" eye-eye measurement. So what the heck size of spring is that?

And can I use any of the existing OEM rear spring pack in rebuilding the front springs (looking for 2500# capacity per side and longer eye-eye than OEM)
 

Cucvnut

Well-known member
3,804
61
48
Location
Carver, Oregon
measure the spring from the middle of eye to eye. rears are 56 or 52 inch. you can use the rear springs in front but you need the DIY 4x 52 inch spring swap set. just take some springs out of the pack so it rides a little better. for the rears you will need to move the rear gas tank ( possibly a blazer 20 gal between the frame rails in plavce of the spare tire. it gets in the way of the new 62 inch springs and hangers. you might also need to re locate the rear rear spring hanger.
 
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ranchhopper

Well-known member
1,631
139
63
Location
south elgin illinois
I used a 4 inch rough country lift new springs on all four corners to eliminate the need for blocks. I have not had any problems easy to install and am running 37 inch humvee tires on their original wheels.
 
We recommend measuring your existing springs before ordering replacements, just to make sure of what you have. The springs are measured along the length of the main leaf, NOT eye to eye.

52" rear springs came in the rear of 1/2 ton GM trucks from '67-87 ('91), some suburbans and 3/4 ton pickups also had 52" rear springs.

56" rear springs are typically found in '73-87 ('91) 3/4 and 1 ton GM trucks and some Suburbans.

64" rear springs came in the rear of '88-98 GM trucks, these longer springs are becoming a popular swap into earlier trucks for more flex and wheel travel.




Hence the confusion in how to measure - the set I got from a 89 1-ton are 62" eye-eye...but where to measure from,,,

A) "along the length", straight distance from the furthest point front to rear,

B) along the curve but only from the eye to the eye (the straight-ish part of the leaf)

C) from the furthest point of the spring front to rear but along the curve

D) the actual full length of the metal, eye loop and all

E) some other way...
 
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