M1008 lifted suspension drag link

[TedO]

Two questions

1) I have a 1986 m1008 with lifted suspension. The suspension was lifted when I bought it. I started getting some tire wrap and the straps on the rear leaf springs were popping off. I took it to a spring shop and one thing they told me was that I needed a block on the frnt left wheel to raise the connection point of the drag link. The block is not commercially available, so the guy machined one out of aluminum. Now I see some people saying in the internet that all that is needed is a dropping pitman arm. Was I ripped off? The drag link is still sloping upwards since it looks like he didnt make the block big enough. Should I correct this with the pitman arm?

2) As I was looking at this stuff, I noticed my drag link was installed backwards. It says in bold type in the manual to make sure the shorter arm is connected to the pitman. For the life of me, I could not get the drag link off. I heated it with a torch, used penetrating oil, beat it with a hammer, used the fork+hammer, and couldnt get it off. I tried a 2 arm puller, but couldnt get it to grip.

Does anybody know why is so important to have the shorter arm connected to the Pitman arm??? I dont see what difference it would make. The overall length seems like it is the only important parameter, ad it doesnt change.

 

[Russm]

#1 http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringcorrection.htm

 

[Skinny]

How much lift do you have and what are you trying to accomplish? You can modify what you have to make it work but Russm's suggestion is what ideally you want to run.

A steering block made of aluminum doesn't sound right, most steering parts are made of forged steel or at minimum a cast, no aluminum.

 

[TedO]

#1 http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringcorrection.htm

Thanks! Thats what I am looking for.

 

[my blood flows OD]

That's scary that the shop would make you a steering component out of aluminum.
I can't believe the hacks out there.

 

[Recovry4x4]

For what it's worth, in the 80s there were quite a few companies making a block for the Dana 60. They have almost quit doing them. Even with the highest quality studs, the leverage on them is so great that. It all but eliminates any safety factor. A raised arm would be better if one is available or crossover would be best. I did crossover in the 80s before kits were made. Took some thought to get the geometry right.