M1008 Melting battery cables

[jgb680]

I started my truck today, it is about 35 degrees here. It was hard to turn over at first but started within about ten seconds. I was later going to check my transmission fluid and happened to look at my battery and realized the wire going between the two batteries was melted and so were my cable ends. I went to the store and bought a two gauge cable with heavy duty ends, I had a four gauge on before. I also had my starter completely rebuilt this past spring, so it should all be good. Does anyone know what else would cause the wire to melt? Did I just have too small of wire on there before?

 

[Matt65]

I had the same wire fail on my truck, I went with a 2ga. as well. Mine would lose continuity, but only under load. The way I eventually found it was by it getting hot to the touch. Otherwise, I may still be looking for it. I never had any melting.

It's possible that the wire becomes faulty over time. And, like you I thought that it was a bit undersized. I would look into having each battery tested to make sure they are strong, and no damage from the thermal event.

My story played out here:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/72579-electrical-short-now-no-start-completely-dead.html

 

[jgb680]

Hopefully it will not happen again with the bigger wire, I'll check the batteries tomorrow. The batteries are less than a year old, and the voltage gauge is always in the green. I also have new alternators and the doghead relay.

 

[DonK]

Ive seen that happen with other equipment usually caused by a bad connection where the Cable enters the connector. First thing I did when I bought mine was replace all cables between the Batteries, Terminals and the Starter. I used 4/0 Welding Cable and Crimp type connectors..I little overkill..but I don't worry about undersize wiring and that what I had laying around. If you make up new cables, be sure to use plenty of No-Ox on the cable ends going into the crimp connectors. This will eliminate the development of corrosion. Also, get the batteries tested so you know what you have...Good Luck
Don

 

[glcaines]

Ive seen that happen with other equipment usually caused by a bad connection where the Cable enters the connector. First thing I did when I bought mine was replace all cables between the Batteries, Terminals and the Starter. I used 4/0 Welding Cable and Crimp type connectors..I little overkill..but I don't worry about undersize wiring and that what I had laying around. If you make up new cables, be sure to use plenty of No-Ox on the cable ends going into the crimp connectors. This will eliminate the development of corrosion. Also, get the batteries tested so you know what you have...Good Luck
Don

Ditto. This was almost certainly caused by poor connections. This problem is not unique to 24 VDC systems, it can happen to any vehicle. I had a battery post and connector melt on a 6 VDC battery once in a 1954 Chrysler.

 

[idM1028]

As a side note, I'd check your glow plugs. I think the coldest its been here so far this year is 19 degrees. I don't use a block heater and I'm not running any anti-gel stuff (not yet anyways) and the truck hasn't taken anywhere near 10 seconds to crank. Usually about 2 seconds after the wait light goes out is sufficient. Quick and easy way to check the plugs is with a circuit tester. Attach the clamp to a ground (I like to use either the front battery ground terminal or the actual ground stud thats near it) Touch the tip to each of the spades on the plug. If the light comes on, the plugs good. I replaced mine a few months back. Took me an hour and a half and I was taking my time with it. Might also want to bleed the fuel system of air. Air in the fuel system can make the truck a PITA to crank and sometimes the fuel filter bases can crack and let air in. Theres also a fuel heater at the top of the filter base. IIRC you can check that by spraying compressed air (from a can) or some other cold aerosol on it.

 

[CUCVFAN]

Ditto. This was almost certainly caused by poor connections. This problem is not unique to 24 VDC systems, it can happen to any vehicle. I had a battery post and connector melt on a 6 VDC battery once in a 1954 Chrysler.

I'll third this. The cable works loose from these factory connectors over years of removing and installing them by twisting against the cable/connector. Using a terminal puller will help prevent this, but swapping to the crimp or clamp style terminals is probably better.

 

[wallew]

the INSIDES of almost any battery cable WILL rust, break (micro-breaks) and basically become a very poor conductor of electricity over time.

If you have NOT replaced your battery cables - all four of them, do your truck a favor and change them. It should make it much easier to start.

 

[OL AG '89]

If you are cranking on the diesel for 10 seconds you are GOING to create issues.
If the vehicle doesn't crank and run after a couple seconds, STOP and cycle the glowplugs again.
It shouldn't take more than 2 - 5 seconds, if the GP's are all functioning and you have cycled a couple of times.
You will also eventually roast or wear out your starter with a ten second crank routine.
Look in the TM's I think they describe a "cold" start procedure as well.

 

[jgb680]

My glow plugs are all new, and work perfectly. I replaced the wire between the batteries, I think it was just loose and thats why it was a little hard to start. It also caused it to get too hot and melt. Everything seems to be working great now. I started it today quickly and with no issues.