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m1008 no start

k20

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Location
Monroe, NC
Im having the same problem you are with an m1008 I just picked up. However, when I switch the key on I can hear a click on the injector pump, but I dont get anything at the injectors. Its all kinds of fun aint it lol.
 

k20

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Location
Monroe, NC
Hey guys, I recently purchased a an m1008 cucv. It is currently still wired for 24v as I cant really afford a 12v starter, blah blah blah. Anyway, trying to get it started. It has a new fuel filter, dropped the fuel tank, cleaned it out, its got about 10gallons of fresh diesel in it, replaced the rubber fuel lines because they had a buncha little pinholes. Anyway, I read on this site to unhook the return line from the injector pump and put low pressure air on it (I used about 5psi) and that pressurized the system, pushing fuel up through the filter, and seemed to do a really good job at priming the system.

So I turn it over & over and it doesnt even attempt to fire. So I take loose one of the lines on the engine side of the lift pump. I am getting good fuel flow there, and if I had to guess I would say ~5-6psi worth. However, at the injector I am getting almost nothing. I get a little drip basically, more like a trickle. I pulled the return line off the injector pump and tried turning it over and I just get a little drizzle out of the return line (basically the injector drip x 8)

I noted that there was a relay or solenoid click on the injector pump when I would switch the key to the on position. I was going to check and see if I had power at the injector pump, but undoubtedly it is 24v (I thought the starter was the only 24v accesory and resistors brought the rest of the truck down to 12v).

I arrived at this conclusion because my test light went supernova on me, burned my retinas and blew the bulb apart. So I would make the assumption I am getting 24v to the injector pump pink wire.

I also noticed the fuel coming out of the injector pump, and the injector pump itself was very very warm. About as warm as a pan of water that had been sitting in the sun all day.

All in all this wraps up to what do I check next? I really dont want to think of it being the injector pump, the truck only has 41,xxx miles on it, so I would hope they have a longer service life than that.

Thanks for any help on this guys.
 

k20

New member
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Location
Monroe, NC
I also just pulled the glowplugs, I had 2 that were starting to swell, so Im gonna replace them. Now I see people talking about 11g's, 13g's, 60g's etc etc. My glow plugs are stamped Wellman 6A843G070. Are these the correct plugs? I find very few mentions of these online
 

k20

New member
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Location
Monroe, NC
Ok, found out thats the glow plug controller. All the write ups I see for manual glow plug conversion are for civilian trucks and 12v. How can I go about converting the military wiring & 24v setup to manual gp's?
 

mangus580

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Western NY
First of all, are you sure there is a problem with the original glow plug wiring? If it aint broke, dont fix it.

Also... The majority of CUCV no-start conditions are due to failed glow plugs. Make sure they work before you do anything.

Dont trust your super-nova test light. Get a volt meter, and read what you are really getting for voltage.
 
190
0
16
Location
Albuquerque NM
The dribble of fuel makes me think it's the fuel shutoff stuck/not getting power/broken. It shouldn't be gushing out the return lines, but something more than a trickle.

k20, do you have a copy of the TMs? The troubleshooting section is pretty easy to follow and will pin down the problem fast.
 

k20

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Location
Monroe, NC
mangus: I dont know if there is a problem with the wiring itself, but with the glow plug controller missing it aint gonna work. Im going to put a mulitmeter on it this coming weekend when I have time to work on it again.

deliverator: I can hear a click on top of the injection pump when I switch the key on, from whatI have read I was under the impression this was the fuel shutoff. If it is, could it be clicking but still inoperative?

No I dont have a copy of the TM's are they listed on this site?
 
190
0
16
Location
Albuquerque NM
Your GP controller is missing completely? Yikes! The Wellman part number you have for your glow plugs is correct, from the application catalog here:
http://www.wellmanautomotive.com/pdf/WAP-Catalog.pdf

The click means the solenoid is actuating. There might be a chance the internal workings are stuck, but I'm not familiar with the guts of these so I can't say for sure.

TMs for the CUCV are available on this site, under Resources on the left menu, at the bottom. The Operator's Manual is TM 9-2320-289-10, Maintenance is -20
 

k20

New member
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1
Location
Monroe, NC
Yeh its missing completely a couple posts up, I linked to two pictures of a plug that has nothing in it. I was told thats what the controller plugs into. Didnt figure out it was missing till late yesterday lol.
 

ILoveGrits2

New member
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Well, turns out I just had some bad fuses. I had a hunch the wiring might be bad, so i pulled the shut off solenoid from the housing and ran a some current through it, and voila, it worked. Checked the wiring with a voltmeter, wasn't getting current like it was supposed to. Replaced some of the fuses, and she runs now.
 

k20

New member
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1
Location
Monroe, NC
Well I mighta figured out my problem today. The fuel shutoff solenoid. Checked voltage at the pink wire, its getting 24v, uh-oh. So pulled off the top of the IP, and it is melted, where can I find a new one? The back of mine is stamped BICRON 26214 12v. Anyone know where I can find one.
 

k20

New member
18
0
1
Location
Monroe, NC
yeh thats the next thing to figure out, just need to go ahead and find the part. Where is that pink wire drawing its power from? Is it on a circuit that could potentially be 24v and just needs reduced to 12v?
 
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