M1008 stalling after 2 or 3 seconds

[2deuce]

I bought a M1008 with the fuel tank already removed because of a hole. I replaced the tank today and tried to start the engine for the 1st time. It runs only a few seconds then dies. I first thought that air was the problem, I bled the fuel filter and plenty of fuel flows out the drain while cranking. Pressure remains in the filter after it stalls. If I let it set a minute before attempting to restart it will run a few seconds longer and may have alittle throttle response before it dies. It seems to not be getting any fuel. If I try a restart right after it dies it will run 2 seconds then stall every time, no variation and no throttle response. I read a couple of posts about the fuel cutoff switch and wonder if this could be the problem. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, but I think it was recently changed. I bought this truck from a fire dept. They said it had a fuel delivery problem and they parked it the last few years. Thanks for the help.


Greg

 

[rickf]

Are you bleeding the filter from the drain on the bottom?? You need to use the air bleed on top of the filter assy. Also check all of your lines leading from the tank to the lift pump for kinks or cracks. Any air leak at all will give you a problem. Also ake sure the fuel return line is clear.
Rick

 

[troll]

The fuel delivery pump (lower right front of engine) should be replaced if it is original and while you're at it replace all the rubber hoses in the fuel system including the ones on the fuel injectors.



Troll

 

[2deuce]

I am using the bleed on top of the filter. Seeing a good flow of fuel there made me think the pump was working well and didn't have any kinks in the line from there back to the tank. It acts like its not getting enough fuel. It does run smooth for about 2 seconds before it starts missing and stalls. I was hoping someone had a symptom like this.
Thanks,
Greg

 

[rickf]

Again, check the fuel return line. If it was pinched when the tank was replaced it will shut the truck down. If you have good flow then the lift pump is good You should have no air at all in the bleed from the filter. Put the bleed line in a jar of fuel and watch for air, if you have air then you have a leak on the inlet line somewhere.
Rick

 

[CUCVinterceptor]

i almost ran mine out of diesel once and a mechanic friend of mine told me to never get below 1/8 of a tank because bleeding the entire line in my truck was a pain, he said to do this id have to crack all the injectors open a little, crank and crank and crank and repeat this process to get all the air out of the lines, not complicated just tedious, time consuming and aggravating. its worth a try.

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

You if the return checks out good. Look for air after the I.P. in the injector lines. Crack the lines at the injectors and see if air comes out.

 

[2deuce]

A pinch in the return line is a possibly, because I couldn't touch the top of the tank to connect the lines so I put longer ones in. Is there a way to check this at the IP without dropping the tank? I may just drop the tank anyway but its got 10 gallons of fuel in it now, so it's more fun getting it back up. If this causes the 2-3 seconds run then die problem I'll be happy and feel lucky.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[Crash_AF]

I just disconnect the GPR and use a little (emphasis on little) ether. That will get the pump spinning fast enough to flush out the air. Of course, the first thing you should do is take the pink wire off the IP and crank it until the filter is bled, that will keep excess air out of the HP system.

Later,
Joe

 

[uscgmatt]

2deuce, I had the exact problem on my 1028 after replacing the IP. After I replaced it and the injectors I decided to clean the tank ( thank god I did). It went well until I had to connect the lines. I also put longer ones on and it casued it to stall after it started. I ended up pulling the bed off to get to the top of the tank and the lines were pinched. I shortened them up until they were straight. It was a good reason to put a service body I had lying around on it. I made a little door in the one compartment to acess the top of the tank so in the future it will be easy. Hope this helps.

Matt

 

[CUCVFAN]

A pinch in the return line is a possibly, because I couldn't touch the top of the tank to connect the lines so I put longer ones in. Is there a way to check this at the IP without dropping the tank? I may just drop the tank anyway but its got 10 gallons of fuel in it now, so it's more fun getting it back up. If this causes the 2-3 seconds run then die problem I'll be happy and feel lucky.

Thanks,
Greg

Take the fuel cap off, then remove the return line from the top of the IP. Blow into the line with a few pounds of compressed air ( 5 or 6 psi should be plenty ) and have a friend listen at the fuel filler for air blowing into the tank. Or, if no friend is available, just remove the air source after a few seconds and see if the pressure relieves noticeably on your end.

 

[2deuce]

Thanks Guys, It sounds very likely I do have a pinch. The trouble is I cant remove the bed so I think I will try to pull my steel lines back far enough so my rubber lines connect on the inside of the frame so I can connect them with the tank in place. I wonder how hard it is to jack up the bed enough to reach in there. I'll look into that too.

Thanks again,
Greg