M1009 6.2 diesel removal guide

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Good day! In this guide I will show you step by step instructions on how to remove a 6.2L diesel from a Cucv M1009! With no stone left unturned. My way

I have removed many 6.2L diesels in the past and hope my way will make your way easier for when you are ready to tackle this fun and easy project!

There may be some differences between my removal and yours because of all the modifications and upgrades I have done to my motor.

Get yourself and your ride in a position where if needed you can take all the time in the world. No stress! It is not a race! Take your time and do it as clean and neat as possible. For whatever reason you choose to remove it, you will thank yourself. I promise!

Legal Disclaimer:

I am a certified diesel mechanic however, this guide is for educational reasons. Use this guide at your own risk! I will not be responsible for your mishaps.

 

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Step 1.

Degrease and clean motor at home or a car wash.

There is nothing worst then being under a truck while having oil, dirt, coolant, etc falling in your face, eyes, nose, ears and mouth.

Step 2.

Disconnect batteries and label the battery terminals and battery cable.

I choose to label mine as B1, B2,B3 and B4.

Remove battery top mounting plates. Take the plates, batteries and battery warmer pads and neatly place them on your work bench.

Step 3.

Disconnect throttle cable from air filter housing and remove air filter/housing and place it on your work bench.

Use a 13mm wrench and take off intake filter housing bolts, filter housing gasket and place them on top of your filter housing on work bench. Cover intake manifold with clean rag.

 

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Step 4.

Using long needle nose pliers, remove the throttle cable link clamp from injection pump and take off the throttle cable and put it out of the way. Be sure to put the clamp back on the throttle so you do not lose it.

Step 5.

With the belts still on and tight, use a 13mm wrench and remove motor fan and place it on top of the air filter housing to conserve bench space. Be sure to put the nuts back on the pulley tight.

Step 6.

Disconnect the 3 wires on top of the Injection Pump, label them as IP and move them out of the way.

 

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Step 7.

Using a 10mm wrench, 11mm wrench and a flat head screwdriver. Disconnect the passenger alternator (Generator) wires. After removing the wires, put the nuts back on the Alternator so they don’t get lost. Label them as A1, A2, A3 and Tach if applicable.

Nut and wrench sizes may differ from your application...

 

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Step 8.

On passenger side, disconnect the 4 glow plug wires and High Idle/Cold Start Sender Sensor wire on the far back of the motor. Label the glow plug wires as G1, G2, G3, G4 and High Idle/Cold Start Sender Sensor S1.

Carefully pull that wiring harness out from between the injection pump lines and valve cover and put the harness out of the way.

 

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Step 9.

Using a 13mm, 10mm wrenches and mini flathead screw driver disconnect driver side Alternator (Generator) wires and label wires A4, A5, A6 and Tach 2.

The two A5 wires both went on the same terminal.

Place nuts and washers back on Alternator so you don’t lose them.

Wrench and nut size may be different on yours.


Step 10.

On driver side, disconnect Water Temp Sensor wire and the glow plug wires. Label them as G5, G6, G7, G8 and Water Temp Sensor S2

 

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Step 11.

Carefully pull out the driver side wiring harness from between valve cover and fuel injection lines and tuck it out of the way next to the tucked throttle cable.


Step 12.

Put on a good pair of gloves. On passenger side next to the fuel pump, use pliers and a flathead screwdriver, disconnect the return fuel line and main fuel line.

Use a small container to catch as much fuel as possible and a rag to wipe the nipples and hoses. Label as F1 and F2

Yes it is red diesel for off road purposes only

 

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Step 13.

Using a 15mm wrench, unbolt the fuel filter housing and place the bolts, washers and spacers on the work bench.

Use wire cutters and remove all wire ties. Throw them in trash.

Disconnect fuel filter wiring and label as Fm1 and Fm2.

Use a flathead screw driver and remove the filters inlet hose that is connected to the hard line on motor. Drain any excess fuel in container, wipe nipple and hose clean and label as F4.

Step 13 continued next post...

 

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Step 13 continued...

On driver side of the intake manifold, use a long flathead screwdriver and loosen the fuel filters outlet hose connected to the injection pump. (Hose clamp nut may be on passenger side)

Using a 15mm deep socket wrench and long extension, loosen the vacuum pump bolt and twist the vacuum pump out of the way so you can put your arm under the intake manifold to easily pull out the fuel filters outlet hose from the injection pump nipple.

Drain the fuel filter into the container and put the fuel back into your fuel tank.

Clean the IP nipple and Outlet hose on fuel filter and label as F3.

Place fuel filter on your bench next to its bolts/Washers/Spacers.

Your fuel filter assembly may or may not be the same. This is an FM100 upgrade.

 

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Step 14.

Using a 15mm deep socket and wrench, on rear passenger side of the motor unbolt the three ground wires and put nut back on the bolt after disconnecting wires so it does not get lost.

Label the bolt/nut 3 Stooges and wires Larry, Curly and Moe.

 

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Step 15.

Use a flathead screwdriver and disconnect the coolant crossover temperature sensor. Use wire cutters to cut the wire ties holding the wires in place. Label sensor and plug as S3. Move wires out of way.

You may or may not have this sensor. It is a custom upgrade for my Phantom 2 coolant temperature gauge on my dash.

 

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Step 16.

Put on some gloves and goggles. Get under your ride with a 15mm socket and wrench and unbolt the torque converter protector cover. There is 8 bolts.

Place it and the bolts on your work bench.

While you are at it, take note of your oil pan gaskets and rear main seal. Look for leaks.

Check the teeth on the flex plate. Look for excessive wear from the starter.

 

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Step 17.

With your gloves and goggles still on...

Using a 15mm deep socket, wrench and long extension, unbolt the 2 starter bolts. Just before unbolting the second bolt, put your hand on the starter so it does not swing down hard when unbolted.

With your right hand hold the starter up and left hand use a 10mm wrench and unbolt the back of the starter from the starter brace. Put the brace nut and washer back on starter so you do not loose it.

While balancing the starter on the front driveshaft, use a 14mm wrench and unbolt the main red wire and place nut and washer back on starter solenoid so you do not lose it.

Again, while balancing the starter on shaft, using a 9mm wrench unbolt the smaller wire from solenoid and put the nut and washer back on so you do not lose it.

Step 17 continued...

 

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Step 17 continued...

Disconnect the bigger main red wire from the clamp hooks that is bolted to your oil pan.

Label Big red wire and Solenoid nut as Start 1

Label Smaller wire and Solenoid nut as Start 2

Put the starter bolts in starter and place starter on work bench.

From the top back of the motor, pull the smaller starter wire labeled Start 2 all the up.

 

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Step 18.

On passenger side top firewall, remove the positive and negative terminal covers with your hands and place the covers on your work bench.

Use a 13mm deep socket and wrench, unbolt the top positive center terminal. Take wire off and put the nut and washer back on. Label as 01.

Use a 13mm deep socket and wrench, unbolt the top positive 4th to the right terminal. Take wire off and put the nut and washer back on. Label as 02.

Using the same 13mm socket and wrench, unbolt the bottom negative center terminal. Take wire off and put the nut and washer back on. Label as 03.

 

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Step 19.

Note: Since you loosened the vacuum pump earlier, it would help to twist it for easier access to this area. Pic 4.

On the driver side top rear of the motor, disconnect the Glow Plug Inhibit Switch and label the wire and glow plug inhibit switch as S4.

While you are there, disconnect the OEM oil pressure sensor and label wire and sensor as S5.

Using a 3/8 standard wrench, disconnect the custom oil pressure line from inlet. Label as S6 (Skip if you don’t have this upgrade)

Using a mini flathead screwdriver, disconnect the 2nd custom oil pressure wires from inlet. Label as S7. (Skip if you don’t have this upgrade)

 

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Step 20.

Gloves and goggles still on?

Using a 14mm standard depth socket, wrench and small pipe, get under your ride on the driver side and unbolt the second up transmission bolt.

Take off the orange wire support and put the bolt in a sandwich bag. Label bag as Transmission, Torque Converter and Exhaust

Follow the orange wire to where it is connected to the Transmission. Disconnect Orange wire from Transmission.

Using a Mini 8mm Socket, wrench and small extension, unbolt the orange wire support from the Transmission. Place bolt in the sandwich bag.

From the top rear of the motor, pull the orange wire up all the way, label as Trans and move the full wiring harness out of the way.

Congratulations! Your whole motor is now unwired and labeled!

 

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Step 21.

Using a long socket 14mm, wrench and long pipe, under driver side, unbolt the first lower transmission bolt and place it in the bag.

Get on Passenger side and unbolt the first lower transmission bolt and place it in the bag.

Disconnect vacuum line from vacuum modulator and bend the line out of the way to get better access to the second top transmission bolt. Don’t kink the vacuum line!

Use a 14mm standard size socket and place the socket on the second top transmission bolt.

Use 4 extensions, with the first extension having a swivel head for the socket. Use the pipe to help break the thread lock and unbolt it. Place bolt in bag.

The top 2 Transmission bolts can easily be accessed from the top rear of the motor in the engine bay because you removed the wiring harness limiting access to that area.

If you still have the big glow plug resisters on the back center of your firewall, remove it and place it on your bench.

Using a 14mm and 16mm wrench, double up the two wrenches and unbolt both of the top two transmission bolts. It helps to turn the vacuum pump either way, out of the way per bolt. Place bolts in sandwich bag when done.

(You can remove the vacuum pump for even more access if needed using a 15mm long socket, wrench and long extension)

With all the transmission bolts out, pull out the transmission dip stick since it is no longer mounted to the transmission. There is a retainer clip connecting both the vacuum line and trans dip stick you will need to remove before pulling it out. (Dipstick and vacuum line retainer clip can be seen in pic 4-5) Place dip stick on work bench.

Have an oil pan ready just in case some transmission fluid comes out from the dip stick entry.

(You might have to bend the vacuum line a little to get the dip stick out)

 

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Step 22.

Draining Oil/Block Heater Cord Removal

Drain oil. Use 14mm wrench doubled up with 16mm wrench to remove oil pan plug. Have 5 gallon bucket or pan ready.

Unplug block heater. Make sure block heater cord will not be in way of motor during removal.

Loosen oil filter with hands or filter wrench and let the oil drain into the bucket.

Once the oil is drained from the filter, fully remove filter and tip it over the bucket so the oil is totally out of the filter. Clean up the filter, filter housing and all areas that got spillage and put it back on the motor to prevent dirt/dust getting in.

Clean oil pan plug and area around oil pan and put it back on.

 

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Step 23.

Fan shroud/Radiator support removal.

Use a 10mm socket and wrench and unbolt the coolant reserve overflow tank hose clamp from fan shroud and unbolt the other top 3 bolts on top of the fan shroud.

Use needle nose pliers and disconnect the coolant reserve overflow tank hose from radiator.

Use the 10mm socket and wrench and unbolt the upper radiator support hose clamp from the fan shroud. The clamp should come right out if lifted upward and pulled. If it doesn’t, you can move it out of the way of the hose and disconnect it once the fan shroud is off by bending the tab with a flathead.

Use the 10mm socket and wrench and unbolt the 2 lower fan shroud bolts.

On driver side of the fan shroud center, use the 10mm socket and wrench and unbolt the oil cooler line support bracket.

Carefully pull out the fan shroud and put it on the work bench and put the clamps and bolts in a sandwich bag label as Radiator.

Step 23 continued...