M1009 6" lift

[REDWOLF]

For anyone how has installed a 6" lift on there M1009, did you have to do any drive shaft work.

 

[bp m1009]

some people say yes others say no. I havent gotten a clear answer on this either, its a mystery i guess

 

[doghead]

Ask any of the lift kit manufacturers.

The answer is yes.

 

[doghead]

And the question must be asked, why?

 

[REDWOLF]

The answer to the question why, well I like lifted truks and my M1009 so why not, the best both worlds. I used to be a purist, you know keep it all original. Buy why it is my truck, I drive it everyday. So I will make it what I want it to be and look like.

 

[Recovry4x4]

All 6" lift kits are not created equal. Go by the mfrs recommendations. No way anyone here can accurately guide you as we have no idea what you are lifting it with and the type of lift.

 

[doghead]

Or how he want's to use it(that's why I asked why).

 

[REDWOLF]

10 4. I am going to use a skyjacker 6" lift with all springs no blocks. I will call them and ask. Thanks

 

[REDWOLF]

No problem doghead, I was just saying. I like playing in the mud and going back in the woods hunting and fishing

 

[Skinny]

Be careful with what the manufacturer recommends. Some say you don't need any driveshaft work but they sell in the kit a transfer case crossmember drop and some even go as far as clocking the tcase down for the front driveshaft angle. Both of which are absurd because they offset the idea of lifting the truck to begin with.

I would safely say that 4" is max and requires slight shaving of the CV yoke for the front driveshaft, 6" would probably bind the **** out of it without some serious grinding.

For the rear, I think 4" is kind of maxing it out as well with the shorter wheelbase Blazer. You may get some vibration which may or may not go away with shims somewhere on the axle or crossmember end. I would assume 6" is over the edge and will require either a CV slip driveshaft or a tcase output conversion with a CV driveshaft conversion.

I have never done one on a Blazer so I can't directly answer you but if that was my truck I would limit myself to 4" or expect to drop some coin for driveshaft mods/replacement.

 

[BigIrv]

I've done plenty of lifts and never did much drive shaft work. If anything I would drop the tcase down a bit. To do that all you have to do is take the big barrel style washers that are mounted on top of the frame where the tcase is bolted, and put them underneath. That will give you plenty of drive line correction for a 4" or a 6" lift. Skinny is right though I would'nt go over a 4" lift anyway, these trucks clear good size tires even with out a lift.

 

[thrice]

+1 on what BigIrv said I have two lifted m1009 one with 5.5'' of lift and the other 5'' in the front and 3'' in the back you can easily clear 37s with both set ups.

 

[jgordon1307]

I put in a longer shaft with cv's, moved the axle back 1" also, 4 inch shackle flip, 6 inch shackles, i love it

 

[on1wheel01]

I just purchased a 85 with 35's and a 6"+ lift. It has a custom drive shaft with the cv joint. Supposedly out of a 70's Cadillac. I'm having it all rebuilt right now so its all new for me.

 

[richingalveston]

My 1009 with 5 inches of lift cannot use the standard slip yoke on the 208 with stock style driveshaft. I have bad vibration and the slightest drop in rear axle will bind the ujoint at the slip yoke. I am installing new tcase with fixed yokes and using cv style driveshafts front and rear.

 

[86m1028]

I've done plenty of lifts and never did much drive shaft work. If anything I would drop the tcase down a bit. To do that all you have to do is take the big barrel style washers that are mounted on top of the frame where the tcase is bolted, and put them underneath. That will give you plenty of drive line correction for a 4" or a 6" lift. Skinny is right though I would'nt go over a 4" lift anyway, these trucks clear good size tires even with out a lift.

When you drop the t-case down like that you only make the frt that much worse.

 

[bigburb11]

86m1028 is right... just dropping the transfer case as described (using the factory crossmember bolt sleeves as spacers) makes the front drive shaft angle WORSE. It can reduce rear driveline vibrations (depending on what the operating angles are)... but it adds stress to the front U joints and shaft.

I have heard stories over on CK5 about the frames cracking around the crossmember bolt holes when this is done as well... but I've never seen that myself.

 

[Skinny]

I cannot understand why people do tcase drops at all. You defeat the purpose of a lift and you are dropping the worst spot on the truck...dead center. If anything, you should be reducing your amount of spring lift and raising/clocking the tcase up to increase center ground clearance. For every inch you raise in the center, you would be gaining the same amount if you went two sizes bigger on tires. I don't know about anyone else but I'd rather drag a properly armored diff over something than get the center of my truck stuck where driveshafts and crossmembers grab a nice shiny rock.

 

[cameron8757]

I have 6" lift and stock shafts with no problems.

 

[Skinny]

Looks like you have a dropped tcase crossmember