M1009 6" lift

[cameron8757]

Yes was checking to see if it would bind in the picture and it turns freely.

 

[BZar03]

i have a six inch lift on mine, no drive shaft mods. just put the wedge kit to change the pinion angle about 10 degrees

 

[phillipmccarthey]

I know this post is over a year old but I looked at a 1984 M1009 today that a guy has for sale and it had a 6" Skyjacker lift on it and the factory rear drive shaft was obviously maxed out. It needs either a CV style driveshaft or one with a slip joint in it. The lift kit had the blocks and degree shims in the rear.

 

[cameron8757]

I have put 10,000 miles on mine with stock shafts and 6" of lift with no problem.

 

[Mainsail]

Can the Corporate 10 bolt in the 09s handle the bigger wheels that one would put on a lifted truck? That's always been my concern and why I've left mine stock. Lift + drive shafts + steering + wheels + tires + kaboomed diffs gets expensive.

 

[lostintexas]

Can the Corporate 10 bolt in the 09s handle the bigger wheels that one would put on a lifted truck? That's always been my concern and why I've left mine stock. Lift + drive shafts + steering + wheels + tires + kaboomed diffs gets expensive.

That's going to depend on what you do with the truck. Yes, it is weak if you put large tires on. Will it break, sure if you beat on it. Does it improve the look yes it does. Does it reduce RPMs at highway speed, sure. The 10 bolts and 5 lugs are weak when you start getting into 35"-37"+ tires but many run them without any issues and never have problems.

 

[cameron8757]

I bought a cheap 3/4 ton suburban with a 6" lift and swapped the axles and lift in to my blazer they had 4.10 gears. I think it would be a dog with the 3.08 and the 37" tires.

 

[rustyshakelford]

Trying to not start another thread. Installed 6" RC lift on my 1008. My front driveshaft at the TC is rubbing on the cross member. I used the stock hardware to drop the TC but it's still rubbing pretty bad. Can I make my own drop spacers and if so, how big should they be? Hoping to tap the knowledge here instead of reinventing the wheel. Worst case is $30 but trying to minimize the down time.

Brett

 

[Jeepsinker]

Keep in mind that you have to watch that the fan does not get into the radiator if you are going to drop the transfer case. I would never drop a case more than an inch myself. I would suggest trimming the crossmember and if you do make drop spacers make them as large diameter as possible to spread out stress.

 

[rustyshakelford]

I was thinking about cutting out a space for the ujoint on the cross member. Just didn't think I would need to do this. Doesn't the motor mounts keep the motor in line and not move it?

another thing I noticed is the motor sounds different now. Rpm specific. Is there anything else I might be forgetting?

brett

 

[Jeepsinker]

I can't think of anything else you are forgetting. Don't know about the engine sound. The motor mounts will keep the engine from jumping around, but if you drop the transfer case it will tilt the motor back. The lower the transfer case goes, the closer the bottom of the fan will get to the radiator, while the top of the fan gets farther away from the radiator. Get the picture?

 

[86m1028]

Trying to not start another thread. Installed 6" RC lift on my 1008. My front driveshaft at the TC is rubbing on the cross member. I used the stock hardware to drop the TC but it's still rubbing pretty bad. Can I make my own drop spacers and if so, how big should they be? Hoping to tap the knowledge here instead of reinventing the wheel. Worst case is $30 but trying to minimize the down time.

Brett

The more you drop the t-case down the WORSE you make the frt drive shaft angle.
Do it RIGHT with a new drive shaft.

 

[rustyshakelford]

The more you drop the t-case down the WORSE you make the frt drive shaft angle.
Do it RIGHT with a new drive shaft.

That's what I hear but don't understand the logic? The driveshaft is coming out of the transfer case and is rubbing the crossmember. If I lower the TC how does it not reduce the angle? It's looking like I'll be pulling the crossmember to replace the TC mounts and cut out a clearance spot for the DS.

Brett

 

[86m1028]

When you lower the t-case, you are tilting it, not lowering straight down.
When you do this you are actually raising the frt output, making the angle that much worse.
It will rub worse with it lowered.

 

[Skinny]

This is pretty much how everyone who lifts a Chevy (or anything else for that matter) does it which only helps with rear driveline angle. Even at 4" of lift, the front CV requires clearancing in order to operate at full suspension travel. A 6" lift is just sending it over the edge. If you want to run that kind of height, than it is going to require a new CV period. Call Jesse at High Angle Driveline, he has your solutions. Guess what, it will cost money

Putting a drop kit in does absolutely nothing in all regards except help the rear operating angle. It does even more damage to the front and it lowers your ground clearance right in the center of the truck. My question is, if you are going to reduce ground clearance, why even bother putting the lift in or going that high to begin with?

Your best bet is to go lower lift and trim fenders. One step better is to clock the tcase to increase ground clearance without raising the center of gravity.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Hard to explain, but you'll see what happens. Then you'll understand the logic.

 

[rustyshakelford]

This is pretty much how everyone who lifts a Chevy (or anything else for that matter) does it which only helps with rear driveline angle. Even at 4" of lift, the front CV requires clearancing in order to operate at full suspension travel. A 6" lift is just sending it over the edge. If you want to run that kind of height, than it is going to require a new CV period. Call Jesse at High Angle Driveline, he has your solutions. Guess what, it will cost money

Putting a drop kit in does absolutely nothing in all regards except help the rear operating angle. It does even more damage to the front and it lowers your ground clearance right in the center of the truck. My question is, if you are going to reduce ground clearance, why even bother putting the lift in or going that high to begin with?

Your best bet is to go lower lift and trim fenders. One step better is to clock the tcase to increase ground clearance without raising the center of gravity.

I only wanted 4". Not wanting to spend more on the lift than I did on the truck led me to RC. I added 37s to reduce the rpms. I had to trim the fenders a bunch to just get it off the trailer. 6" was the only lift I could find for the k30 with the exception of ORD. They were way to expensive with us in the final leg of building a new house. 6" is really big with the 37s but I need 4wd back. I guess I'll call about Andre shaft. Don't really see how that would give me clearance unless they use smaller joints.

If lowering the tc would've worked, then losing 1" of ground clearance is worth it. I hardly see how it would negate the benefits of a lift.

Brett

 

[Skinny]

Most would go with the same size CV joint, 1310. Important part is Jesse does machine work so it can operate at higher angles not only constantly but also to a higher limit. The stock one at the max angle will barely bolt into a 4" lifted truck at ride height.

I would ditch the lowering kit and buy the proper shafts. Bad vibes tend to do lots of damage long term.

 

[southdave]

what;s the cost of changing length of drive shaft

 

[Skinny]

Probably set you back $200 to $300 depending on what diameter and wall thickness you need.