m1009 blazer 25mph @ 8% grade

[TCUCV]

I agree, some pictures would definitely help for those of us less knowledgable

 

[cfish]

ya but i dont know whats i'm looking at or where to look please post a picture

New to all this as well, but I think if you go look at your IP just infront and where the pink wire goes to your P just below that is where the hash marks are. I THINK!!!

 

[OddballJ]

I took one with my phone, but I seem to have forgotten the mem. card adaptor so I can't transfer them. If I swing by walmart I'll pick up a new one and throw the picture up. I'm back at school now, and they really frown on disassembling cars in the parking lot, but if I have to take the manifold off at a friends house I'll post pictures of that too.
Can any one tell me if the bolts need to be removed or just loosened?

 

[2deuce]

Just loosened. I think that is most of your problem. Your engine probably will make more noise when you advance the timing, better mileage, more power. If your pump is getting worn a new pump will make a huge difference.

 

[2deuce]

I forgot to add that it should accelerate in 2nd gear on just about any grade, but I also have to say that the acceleration will always be slow. They don't accelerate very fast even on the downhill side.

 

[OddballJ]

Just loosened. I think that is most of your problem. Your engine probably will make more noise when you advance the timing, better mileage, more power. If your pump is getting worn a new pump will make a huge difference.

That, sir, is fantastic news on both accounts. I'll see what I can do about getting that done before the snow hits.

Now I just need to change my glow plugs. As far as I know they're the original plugs and it's about to get cooooooold.

 

[67_C-30]

I can't find any good pics to show those wanting them, but below is a pic of the IP, and the 3 bolts are located here. Just imagine the pump with lines coming off the back and the bolts are going into the backside of the from timing cover right behind the oil fill tube. It works best to use a light to see the lower ones. You can see the top one right behind the alignment marks on top, but you can't really see the other two. The one on the driver's is a little tricky because the bracket that holds the throttle cable is in the way, but they can defintely be loosened without removing the intake with a little patience. Below is pics of the bolt holes on a IP, and pics of the top bolt on the IP. The IP in that pic is severely retarded, but its the only one I could find. The mark on the IP should be at lined up with the mark on the timing cover, but they run better being advanced a little. This would mean the mark on the IP should be to the right of the mark on the cover. I usually start by moving them about the width of a dime to the right. I hope this helps and makes sense!

 

[MuleMac01]

so turn mine a little to the driver side to get a little more HP back?

 

[OddballJ]

finally got this done the other day, and I instantly noticed a huge difference. Truck seems to start a lot nicer too, which is great It still doesn't sound quite the way I think it should, so soon as it stops snowing I'm going to try advancing it a little bit. A huge thanks to all
On a different note, is it potentially damaging to drive the truck when the engine is still cold? It's been down in the negatives the past few days here and It takes a good 10 or more minutes for the engine to get fully warmed up (and by that I mean the engine is running smoother and I can feel some warmth coming from the engine) For the most part I've tried to wait to drive it, but if I'm in a hurry I'll likely just drive off without even thinking about it. Is that going to be damaging?

 

[67_C-30]

so turn mine a little to the driver side to get a little more HP back?

Yes, but just don't go too much. Usually going about .040" just gets you back to the "as delivered" timing due to timing chain stretch. You can usually get away with a little more, but not a lot.

 

[67_C-30]

finally got this done the other day, and I instantly noticed a huge difference. Truck seems to start a lot nicer too, which is great It still doesn't sound quite the way I think it should, so soon as it stops snowing I'm going to try advancing it a little bit. A huge thanks to all
On a different note, is it potentially damaging to drive the truck when the engine is still cold? It's been down in the negatives the past few days here and It takes a good 10 or more minutes for the engine to get fully warmed up (and by that I mean the engine is running smoother and I can feel some warmth coming from the engine) For the most part I've tried to wait to drive it, but if I'm in a hurry I'll likely just drive off without even thinking about it. Is that going to be damaging?

It won't really hurt it, but it better to warm it up, if you can. Sometimes you have to do it, but let it run at least a little before pulling off. When I leave work on a cold day, i crank it up and keep my foot on the pedal and rev it up to maybe 1200 RPM for at a minute so, and then pull off. I always go outside and let it idle for 10 - 15 miuntes on the first start-up in the morning. They are always going to be sluggish when cold, and its best not to try to kill to make it "go". Just realize its going to be turd, and take it easy until it warms up!