m1009 cucv won't start

[Spielmannsfluch]

OK, baby sleeping.

Dog head relay mod used Napa part # 7-01860-1. GP relay mod used was GPR109, purchased at Napa.

Got the m1009 started tonight. I shaved the light blue wire going into the GP controller. Hooked up a aligator clip wire to the light blue shaved wire. Other end was also alligator clipped and I waited to hook it to a ground inside the cab that is hooked to the rear battery.

I turned the key to on. Grounded the light blue wire to the rear battery. No WTS light came on. Waited 10-15 seconds. About 50 degrees out. Still no WTS light. Pulled the ground wire, turned it over for 10 secs with no luck. Turned key off, wiggled wires, turned key on, without the ground on and the WTS light came on. I waited. Light goes off. I turn, and the reliable diesel starts immediately.

I let it run for a half hour to warm up. Shut it off, turn the key and no WTS light, but started right up. Probably because it was warm.

I cut the light blue wire and reconnect with an integrated exposed capped to make grounding easier going forward.

So....the confusing part is that the WTS light came on. I was not expecting it. If I had to guess....I would say I jiggled some wires and the control card connected and warmed the GPs.

Anyway...I found the problem through trial and error and now feel much more qualified without reading a book. Now that I found the problem, I will go back and read the TM.

Any other comments? And recommendations for the manual GP mod? I will pick up a momentary switch tomorrow and link it to the ground to override the controller in the future to manually override the card.

Thanks, all... even if I ignore the advice to read the TMs first, I still love the advice and comments.

 

[doghead]

You need to ground the blue wire to the front battery negative. This is also the body/frame ground. Not the rear battery negative.

I would pull your card and clean the contacts with a pencil eraser.

Unfortunately, our advice is also what the TM says to do(in most cases). All you do by ignoring the TMs, is make more work for the members. Everyone should read/use the TMs, then ask for the help they need if they do not understand it or it does not solve their issue.

This forum is simply full of TM instructions.

 

[swiss]

Great write up and glad you attacked the problem systematically. Now you are on your way to tackle the next problem. It is very helpful to have your details not only to help but for others down the road that may have the same problem

 

[Warthog]

By connecting to the rear battery negative, you just supplied 12v to a ground circuit. That is a bad idea. Good thing you didn't burn some wiring.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

Shoot - it was the ground on the front battery, now that I look. I ran an 8 gauge ground from there into the cab to run various electronics a couple of months ago....I knew I did it right, but I was thinking the rear lost of the front battery....

Anyway....I will pull the card and erase the contacts. That is good advice.

Thanks again.....

 

[Warthog]

Glad to hear that. Thanks for the update.

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

OK, I finally got some more time. Got home, tried to start, no luck. Pulled out the GP control module to erase it, and realize there is no cap to it. Oh, well. Looks worn, but not too bad. Maybe I'll drop some solder on the worn contacts later on.

I lulled out the training manual -20 and printed off the relevant pages. I notice the TM said to pull the card and ground the dark blue wire. I remember someone said ground the light blue wire. WTF?

I pull out the multimeter to measure my electrons. I check the contact of the DARK blue wire with the key turned and get about 12-13 volts. I then turn off the key, ground that wire, WTS light comes on. TM step one done. I wait....20 seconds, disconnect the wire (hot!) And turn over...no luck. Also I note there are no sounds so the GP relay may not be pushing electrons.

I turn off the key and open the hood. I connect the multimeter ground to the front battery, turn the key and test the NEW glow plug relay. No sound. No click. Seems not to kick on. I test the two big bolts on the GP relay. The one that goes to the battery side is hot, 12-13 volts, but the one coming from inside is showing nothing. Both smaller connection bolts show nothing.

From the looks, the issue is that new GP is not engaging. There's an electro magnetic in there that is not getting the right power to turn on the magnet to engine the glow plugs. So...did I install the new GP relay correctly? What wires go on each terminal? Should I just go back and install the old one?

 

[Spielmannsfluch]

OK, finally got some time and changed the GL relay back to the other one....and no luck. Turns over, white smoke, no wait light. I ground the blue wire and the WTS light comes on....I wait 20 seconds, but the GP relay doesn't click and the truck doesn't start.

I am at a loss. Did I get the wrong GP relay before? This is starting to get frustrating. Any other advice? I traced the words with the voltage meter and it still appears as if the GP relay is not sending a signal to the GPs.

Please advise. I still need help. I put the trickle charger back on and wait.....