m1009 daily driver, what to look for?

[stranger75]

Hi, new guy here. I've been thinking of purchasing an m1009 for use as a daily driver. There is one for sale near Nashville, up by Fort Cambell. I have done some research, and have been able to find some very helpful information in the forums on Steelsoldier.com, but I could use a little help. What should I be concerned with when I go to look at this vehicle? are there common problems I should be looking for? What would you ask the seller about this m1009?

Here is the link to the craigslist ad:

1986 M1009 CUCV 3/4 ton Blazer K5 type

Thanks for your help!

 

[91W350]

Glow plug and fuel issues are most common.... followed by poorly done 12 volt conversions. In this case I would look very closely at the bottom of the truck to make sure we are not hiding rust holes with POR 15 to make it easier to sell. They are a great driving truck, cheap to repair and pretty capable off road. It would be nice if you can hear a cold start, should be able to turn the switch on, wait for the light to go out and fire right up.

Not that mine is absolutely right, but I did these videos for a fellow member.

The transmission should shift about 15 or 20 under light acceleration and into drive at about 25 to 30. It should shift firmly, but not feel like it is going to knock the rear end out of the truck. The M1028 and M1008 trucks feel like they hit much harder as they are much lower geared.

The engine oil should be black unless it is freshly changed. The trans fluid should be clear and not burnt. You can wipe a little oil off the stick, it should paint your fingers black, but be solvent and not lumpy or gritty feeling.

When driving, the 6.2 does not have great power, it should pull nice and smooth and sound like it is humming pretty hard by the time you hit 70 in the Blazer, in the lower geared pickups, by 50 she is singing.

Glen

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gevsvRnwvlU&feature=related[/media]

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjNRQ1u3Wl4&feature=related[/media]

 

[Barrman]

Fast answer is one that has been used as a daily driver for at least 3 or 4 months. That is about how long it takes all the kinks to work themselves out of a 25 year old truck that probably sat more than ran for most of those years.

Long answer is that just about everything electrical on the truck will need to be taken apart, cleaned and if bad, fixed. Everything rubber on the truck should be replaced, the starter probably needs help and if you get by without rebuilding both alternators in the next few months, you will be one of the few. A new starter solenoid will be needed, probably a glow plug relay, glow plugs, a round spin on fuel filter will be nice, oil cooler lines and all fluids on the truck should be changed with the filters. I would also suggest new calipers and wheel cylinders because they will start to leak once constant use is inflicted on them.

Most of the items mentioned above are really pretty cheap and covered in detail here in the CUCV forum. Not trying to scare you off, just warn.

Find a rear top, tail gate and make sure there is a real title, not just a SF-97 because they will not allow you to register the truck. Only a real title will allow that.

 

[Dave Kay]

Dotto what Barrman says.

And I would add that unless you are prepared to do the necessary work on this vehicle for the time it will take to make it a dependable daily driver, expect the unexpected until you do.

Meanwhile, good luck!

 

[stranger75]

This is great advice so far, Thankyou.

 

[BIG_RED]

I haven't had starter, starter solenoid, glowplug relay, alternator, brake or serious electrical problems. I have new brake pads/shoes. That was it.

I did replace a leaky fuel filter set up with a spin on, re-do almost all power steering related stuff (because SOMEBODY let it run dry), replace glow plugs, almost all the rubber hoses, belts, mostly all simple wear items. Power steering pump half seized and broke it's bracket, vibrations killed the water pump bearing. So i replaced the water pump. Not the trucks fault - that was my fault. Changed ALL fluids. (my truck leaked EVERY SINGLE FLUID when I bought it). It was not reliable as a daily driver for the first 6 months. But I just played with it on evenings and weekends, wasn't super serious about it. Now I drive it every day. It's the only roadworthy vehicle I own.

 

[319]

You took the correct approach in reading the forums. Seller doesn't say much about the truck and it's fairly cheap so I'd suspect a number of issues. If you're really interested, ask for more information and/or with a savy friend, take a ride to the sellers location and give it a good look and test drive. Good luck.

 

[2deuce]

An SF97 is a real title. It just means its treated like an out of state title. You will need a vin inspection so make sure the numbers match like you would with any title. You will have to get it titled in your name anyway. They should be no problem, its a federal title.

 

[91W350]

I guess I was lucky, I replaced the glow plugs in two trucks, rebuilt the starter in two trucks, put front pads on three trucks, replaced alternator belts on two trucks, had to put a flywheel on one, axle seals on two, had two out of 8 alternators rebuilt, installed two lift pumps and changed out two filter bases. To be fair though, I have driven them over 100,000 miles and consider that pretty light for used vehicles that my sons and friends are free to drive...... None of the brake pads were worn out, they just squeaked. I have not had to replace a caliper or wheel cylinder yet.

 

[pevrs114]

Gents,

Stranger75 is my brother. He contacted me a few weeks ago, looking for a dependable daily-driver SUV that he could get inexpensively and do some maintenance himself. We've been going over Craigslist ads for awhile, and I pointed out that an M1009 may fit into the category of what he's looking for. I've certainly seen some good examples on this site that would be within his budget.

He is very mechanically inclined, but does not have a lot of vehicle-specific experience. He just finished a brake job on his '00 impala by himself, with only a little phone help. He's familiar with the general style of the truck, when we were in high school we had a 1985 K5 Blazer that we both drove some, it was a rust bucket and had a 350/700R4.

I'd go with him to look at the M1009, but he lives about 8 hours away. If anyone is near the Nashville or Ft. Campbell area and wouldn't mind riding with him to scope the truck out, I'd be forever indebted.

Anyway, Strager75 good luck on finding a good truck.

 

[REGULATOR]

ast answer is one that has been used as a daily driver for at least 3 or 4 months. That is about how long it takes all the kinks to work themselves out of a 25 year old truck that probably sat more than ran for most of those years.

Long answer is that just about everything electrical on the truck will need to be taken apart, cleaned and if bad, fixed. Everything rubber on the truck should be replaced, the starter probably needs help and if you get by without rebuilding both alternators in the next few months, you will be one of the few. A new starter solenoid will be needed, probably a glow plug relay, glow plugs, a round spin on fuel filter will be nice, oil cooler lines and all fluids on the truck should be changed with the filters. I would also suggest new calipers and wheel cylinders because they will start to leak once constant use is inflicted on them.

Most of the items mentioned above are really pretty cheap and covered in detail here in the CUCV forum. Not trying to scare you off, just warn.



And if you buy one for 2500 and do all the above, you can quickly get into the 5k realm, especially if you need to replace a lot of stuff.

mine has been daily driven for over a year now, and the first couple months there were a few "teething" pains getting things adjusted and dialed in.
and you will still run into an issue here and there as time goes on and things just wear out

 

[stranger75]

I spoke with the seller on the phone. He told me it has 19,000 miles and is in great running condition. starts up every time. He said he replaced the glow plugs and the master cylinder, and that the POR 15 is covering up rust underneath the seats. Not too surprising, seeing how prone to rust the body is.
I asked him about the body damage mentioned in the ad; he said the auction guys pierced the passenger side fender (?) with a forklift and that someone had done a poor bondo repair on it in the past. I asked if there was any damage to the undercarriage from said forklift, he said no. He should be sending me some pics later today, so hopefully those will show more detail of the condition the truck is actually in. I'll be happy to share as soon as I get them.

I won't be able to see it in person until next week, due to the fact that I have to go out of town for work, and he has to drive 30 miles to meet me at the truck. So, assuming no one else buys it in the next few days, I should be able to go check it out, and will update on what I find.

 

[Barrman]

Not trying to be picky, but this needs to be written. A SF-97 (Standard Form number 97) is not a title. It is a Federal government form saying they were the original owners of a never titled vehicle. A SF-97 is not transferrable to another person. The person who's name is on the SF-97 has to register and title the vehicle before that vehicle can be sold to another person.

Some people have had success in some states doing it differently. Most have not had success with taking a SF-97 in another name to get a title. Unless, you won the auction, the SF-97 will not be in your name. This is important because several hundred dollars and months of time could be spent to get a title if there isn't one currently.

 

[CROM]

Check the wheel bearings! Roll both windows down and drive as close as you can to a privacy fence or center divider...anything that will reflect the sound into the cab for you to hear. Listen for grinding/clunking. All you should hear is the even moan of your tires and the engine.

 

[2deuce]

The SF97 is treated like a federal title. It is a certificate to obtain a title. It is transferable. If you have ever bought anything from GL you have seen that it(the certificate) is titled to GL and they then transfer it to you. Never heard of or had a problem, but I have seen alot of fear of them. There is no need to title it in your name first, that is just an extra cost and delay. Your state will accept it, just make sure the numbers match. It is better than some out of state titles. Some state titles are not accepted by other states. I know that Oregon will accept titles from all neighboring states but some titles required additional documentation. There are alot of resellers out there, I know they don't title anything in their name first.

 

[2deuce]

I forgot to add you will need a bill of sale to go along with the SF97. As with anything you buy know who you are buying it from. If its stolen it won't be yours no matter how much you paid for it.

 

[pevrs114]

I spoke with the seller on the phone. He told me it has 19,000 miles and is in great running condition. starts up every time. He said he replaced the glow plugs and the master cylinder, and that the POR 15 is covering up rust underneath the seats. Not too surprising, seeing how prone to rust the body is.
I asked him about the body damage mentioned in the ad; he said the auction guys pierced the passenger side fender (?) with a forklift and that someone had done a poor bondo repair on it in the past. I asked if there was any damage to the undercarriage from said forklift, he said no. He should be sending me some pics later today, so hopefully those will show more detail of the condition the truck is actually in. I'll be happy to share as soon as I get them.

I won't be able to see it in person until next week, due to the fact that I have to go out of town for work, and he has to drive 30 miles to meet me at the truck. So, assuming no one else buys it in the next few days, I should be able to go check it out, and will update on what I find.

A fender to fit that truck should cost you about $25 and take less than an hour to install. The rust in the floorboards I'd check very carefully, from on top and underneath. Make sure the floorpans are structurally sound. Pull back the kickpanel just below the parking brake and make sure the floorpans haven't rotted through behind the trim. Do this on the psgr side as well. My M1028 rusted out there.

 

[91W350]

Rusting of the kick panels is usually dirt or leaves and grass piled up plugging or restricting the cowl vent drains. There is not much we can do about that short of screening the intake grate. The debris gets wet and sits there waiting to dry. A lot of floor rust is close to the same thing, dirt and mud kicked under the floor mat and let to draw moisture and rot the floor out, from the top or bottom.

Buy one and drive it, do not worry about it being a show truck, get a good solid one and just enjoy it. Respect the fact that the engine is governed way too high and just drive it with a little respect. They will do a lot of work and carry you a long, long ways with very little heartache. Glen